What are my options? Mechanic telling me I'll be needing some new $$$ cats.

So start with the checking for faulty hoses or bad gaskets on the throttle body and intake manifold. Would be hard to just look at a gasket and see if it is leaking though unless you have a smoke device to check for leaks. Then clean your MAF sensor. Still need to get your cats replaced if they are bad. Sounds like you would rather trust a stranger "mechanic" than get some good info off the site from people who work on rangers all the time and are probably more knowledgeable than most dealers. Did you have symptoms before the cats went bad other than what you previously stated?

What is the MPG like? You need to find out what those codes are. They maybe indicating a lean condition. A little bit of googling or youtube You can check them with a meter. The way to fix a problem, any problem, is diagnosis. Throwing parts at it, isn't diagnosis. Gets expensive and runs the risk of further trouble. The best use of your limited funds is to spend some time looking for "how tos" If it throws codes, that is where you start further diagnosis. Codes relate to a sensor falling out of range. Diagnosis is a process of elimination. It takes time, but will save money and trouble. It works for lotsa stuff not just Fords.

PS.step #1 is to spend for a cheap DVOM. Next is to read the instructions, that come with it. Watch you tube . Unless you are messing with spark plugs on a running car, there won't any shocks. Grounding out the positive side of the battery isn't advised either. I can't remember the last time I was bit by 12 volts None of this hard, it mostly takes patience

Andy D said:

What is the MPG like? You need to find out what those codes are. They maybe indicating a lean condition. A little bit of googling or youtube You can check them with a meter.

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Please stop spreading this incorrect info. You cannot check codes with a voltmeter on an OBD2 vehicle.

adsm08 said:

Please stop spreading this incorrect info. You cannot check codes with a voltmeter on an OBD2 vehicle.

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If its on youtube it must be true!

Dirtman said:

If its on youtube it must be true!

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Andy often misses changes and gives instructions that pertain to his truck while discussing ones that have a completely different setup. The two most common things he does this with is telling people with OBD2 trucks they can get DTCs with a volt meter (only applies to OBD1 vehicles) or talking about working on the 98+ IFS suspensions as if they were TTB setups.

adsm08 said:

Andy often misses changes and gives instructions that pertain to his truck while discussing ones that have a completely different setup. The two most common things he does this with is telling people with OBD2 trucks they can get DTCs with a volt meter (only applies to OBD1 vehicles) or talking about working on the 98+ IFS suspensions as if they were TTB setups.

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That's funny.... Is that like asking the guy at the parts store for spark plugs on a diesel truck lol.

91stranger said:

That's funny.... Is that like asking the guy at the parts store for spark plugs on a diesel truck lol.

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Some older diesels do have spark plugs and it is a glorious day when you get someone at the parts store that thinks they know everything and ask for spark plugs for a diesel engine.

International/Farmall tractors and bulldozers were big on starting on gas and switching to diesel when warmed up. Carb and dizzy on one side of the engine, injection pump on the other.

juntjoo said:

P0171 & P0174

Both banks lean if I remember right. Before was just one side. I'll pay the $130 admission to the dealership pros to get "another opinion" just to be safe. Hopefully they don't tell me the same, that until they replace/(eliminate) cats they won't know for sure the primary cause of cel.

I would have spent some time doing any easy checks if there are any but I've got a plumbing leak in my house and my motorcycle, my only transportation currently, has a carb air leak.

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Someone asked

Bank 1 & 2 lean.

I doubt cats caused it but i bet the engine tried to run rich to compensate and the excess fuel toasted the cats.

85_Ranger4x4 said:

Some older diesels do have spark plugs and it is a glorious day when you get someone at the parts store that thinks they know everything and ask for spark plugs for a diesel engine.

International/Farmall tractors and bulldozers were big on starting on gas and switching to diesel when warmed up. Carb and dizzy on one side of the engine, injection pump on the other.

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Starting on gas? Are you talking about pony motors?

I had my 2011 threw a code that said an O2 sensor was bad on the driver's side. Did the research before throwing money at parts and the consensus was it was a cat problem and not a sensor problem. I bought one through RockAuto and replaced the cat and it fixed the problem. After dealing with snapped studs... The ones on the manifold pulled ok with t a stud puller but those pressed in ones where the driver's side hooks tot he passenger side were HARD and ate quite a few drill bit before I could remove them. If I remember correctly, the cat wasn't too horribly expensive compared to Ford OEM. About $250 for a more compact, stainless steel model.

Long story short, the mechanic may be correct. My particular model year only has two catalytic converters. One on the driver's side and one on the passenger's side. So it makes it a bit easier and perhaps cheaper.

I once had a code for ghosts in my can-bus. Took me three separate priests to rid the demons from my ecu. And the dumb mechanic wanted to charge me for an air filter.... Youtube "truck exorcism" problem solved.

85_Ranger4x4 said:

Some older diesels do have spark plugs and it is a glorious day when you get someone at the parts store that thinks they know everything and ask for spark plugs for a diesel engine.

International/Farmall tractors and bulldozers were big on starting on gas and switching to diesel when warmed up. Carb and dizzy on one side of the engine, injection pump on the other.

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The old Farmall bulldozer - that brings back some misspent youth. Yes, it starts on gas, you let it warm up for a few, and then kill the gas, start the diesel while switching the cam to allow for higher compression

It's a good way to confuse a buddy when you take both the gas and diesel fuel lines off the fuel truck and put them in tanks.

To the OP: Until you find the vacuum leaks P0171 & P0174, you are going to continue to have problems.

P0171 and P0174 aren't O2 sensor codes they just mean the O2 is reading out of range.O2 out of range isn't a diagnosis,it's a symptom.Vacuum leak,restricted injectors,low fuel pressure,poor ground somewhere,are all worth looking at before replacing cats.If P0420 is still there(and it probably will be) that means cat inefficiency.

Omg, dealership is telling cats are fine and I just need to clean my maf, reset comp + a dozen other recommended cleanings and replacements so they can charge me $350+diagnostic. I actually did check out the maf and air filter back when I first got the code and used some maf spray and everything actually looked clean already but I guess it's a bit more involved. Or maybe this mechanic doesn't know either. Well I'll take it back and start from scratch. I'll get the details in writing but I did hear her(my handler) say something about eaning inductors. Is that much of a task. Well I'll at least be looking into more of what I can do myself before I spend anymore. Good thing I went for the 2nd opinion! Thanks for the warnings.