302 rad/cooling pics/ideas - Page 2

Angie · 05-25-2016, 11:22 PM

Jmcleek, thanks for them, and nice nova build also!!!

These pictures and how you guys mounted the rads/fans are great thanks !!!

I know what is wrong with my build now.... I checked the placement of the motor in the frame and I need to get my motor and trans back another 1-2 inches.... By looking at all the room you guys have, I am guessing I am too much to the forward end of the motor bay.

arrrhg... always something else....

cheers

jmcleek · 05-26-2016, 09:46 AM

Thank you. Part of the reason for the 2inch body lift was engine placement, the other part was that I used automatic overdrive transmission. The part of the pan under the timing chain cover front edge was 17 1/2 inches front the top edge of the front bumper and the valve cover on the passenger side was an inch from the fire wall. If that helps. In addition the pinch weld on the floor firewall is hammered flat with the floor using relief cuts. Another reason for the lift is the big a$$ 15 inch wheels that I put under it. The transmission cross-member was moved back about an inch or so. What type of motor mounts are you using? You want to set the engine as low and far back as you can.

Go into pictures on cardoman there are a ton of pics

**85_Ranger4x4** · 05-26-2016, 10:47 AM

On the mounts I used SN-95/foxbody convertible mounts, not that thrilled with them. I had ti shim the engine way up to get it to clear the crossmember and they keep wanting to settle in the slots which messes up the exhaust seal and the oil pan will rub on the crossmember and vibrate.

I have it fixed now by cutting up washers and stuffing in the slots in the crossmember but I still don't like it. Someday I am going to go to V6 mounts with plates.

Angie · 05-27-2016, 01:16 AM

at the moment using mounts from a 2.8 that were in the truck, and a set of 1/4 inch plates from an old ranger swap that someone else built years back that were on a motor that I took out of a ranger from a pick-a-part wreckers. That motor was sold after I took the small bell housing C6 off it.

will now take the plates off the motor and build a new set at work with the same patterns but will build in a slider that can allow the motor to go back more.

will have to reset the trans and modify the mounting there also.

thanks

jmcleek · 05-27-2016, 09:45 AM

Sounds good ,post up some pic when you get the kink worked out.

Angie · 06-19-2016, 12:35 PM

I am rebuilding the mounting plates, and getting the slots set back another inch and a half. this will set the motor deeper into the firewall. I have found a belt driven water pump that shaves off 1.5 inches from the depth, plus found an electric fan that is just 2 inches deep and has 16 inch blades. these mods will give me the missing depth for the engine. Will also be looking into that nice rad that was posted earlier in here to keep it all cool.

thanks for the help and will post up pics as I get the parts .... arrrgh no cheap way to do these style builds....

cheers

RonD · 06-19-2016, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Angie

..............................

thanks for the help and will post up pics as I get the parts .... arrrgh no cheap way to do these style builds....

cheers

I think the least expensive way to do any custom build.............is to buy it already done,

And if the only point is to have a V8 Ranger then that's what you do.

The journey and the work, when it's done of course, lol, is the part you remember, and while you do make payments on it

, you can't ever buy that experience, you can only earn it.

Angie · 06-20-2016, 08:43 AM

"you can't ever buy that experience, you can only earn it."

How true.......

I wasn't whining... i was just saying that every time on the truck it is two steps forward and one step back ... LOL cheers

RonD · 06-20-2016, 11:25 AM

Didn't think you were, which is why I had "when it is done, of course, lol".

Angie · 06-21-2016, 11:55 PM

Ok, stopped in at friends tonight to pick up 2 newly made plates to reset the engine deeper into the body. all bolted up great.

now from the front of the timing cover to the deepest spot inside the grill there is 12.5 inches for placement of water pump, fan and rad.

does anyone run this smaller nosed water pump in their build? if so how deep is it?

thanks https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...view/make/ford

if any of you guys were to measure from timing cover to inside, how much room you figure you are running?

and this is the fan i am hoping to get. https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...Reviews=Newest

cheers

05-26-2016, 09:46 AM	#12
jmcleek Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 249 Vehicle Year: 1988 Vehicle Make: ford Vehicle Model: ranger Rep Power: 20	Thank you. Part of the reason for the 2inch body lift was engine placement, the other part was that I used automatic overdrive transmission. The part of the pan under the timing chain cover front edge was 17 1/2 inches front the top edge of the front bumper and the valve cover on the passenger side was an inch from the fire wall. If that helps. In addition the pinch weld on the floor firewall is hammered flat with the floor using relief cuts. Another reason for the lift is the big a$$ 15 inch wheels that I put under it. The transmission cross-member was moved back about an inch or so. What type of motor mounts are you using? You want to set the engine as low and far back as you can. Go into pictures on cardoman there are a ton of pics __________________ http://www.cardomain.com/id/jmcleek page 11-15 Last edited by jmcleek; 05-26-2016 at 09:48 AM.

05-26-2016, 10:47 AM	#13
85_Ranger4x4 December 2013 OTOTM Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Between Omaha & Des Moines Posts: 18,323 Vehicle Year: 1985 Vehicle Make: Ford Vehicle Model: Ranger I use this vehicle for: A weapon of massive consumption. Rep Power: 10	On the mounts I used SN-95/foxbody convertible mounts, not that thrilled with them. I had ti shim the engine way up to get it to clear the crossmember and they keep wanting to settle in the slots which messes up the exhaust seal and the oil pan will rub on the crossmember and vibrate. I have it fixed now by cutting up washers and stuffing in the slots in the crossmember but I still don't like it. Someday I am going to go to V6 mounts with plates. __________________ 1985 Ford Ranger Custom, 4x4, PA 3" BL, 5.0HO, M5R2, Twin-Stick NP205, 31 spline T/L 8.8 w/ disc brakes. Check out my Build Thread Check out my NAIAS Ranger Trip "I have not failed. I have just found 10,000 ways that won't work." - Thomas A. Edison.

05-27-2016, 09:45 AM	#15
jmcleek Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 249 Vehicle Year: 1988 Vehicle Make: ford Vehicle Model: ranger Rep Power: 20	Sounds good ,post up some pic when you get the kink worked out. __________________ http://www.cardomain.com/id/jmcleek page 11-15

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05-25-2016, 11:22 PM	#11
Angie Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Vancouver area BC Canada Posts: 884 Vehicle Year: 90 & 83 project Vehicle Make: Ford Vehicle Model: Rangers Rep Power: 24	Jmcleek, thanks for them, and nice nova build also!!! These pictures and how you guys mounted the rads/fans are great thanks !!! I know what is wrong with my build now.... I checked the placement of the motor in the frame and I need to get my motor and trans back another 1-2 inches.... By looking at all the room you guys have, I am guessing I am too much to the forward end of the motor bay. arrrhg... always something else.... cheers

05-27-2016, 01:16 AM	#14
Angie Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Vancouver area BC Canada Posts: 884 Vehicle Year: 90 & 83 project Vehicle Make: Ford Vehicle Model: Rangers Rep Power: 24	at the moment using mounts from a 2.8 that were in the truck, and a set of 1/4 inch plates from an old ranger swap that someone else built years back that were on a motor that I took out of a ranger from a pick-a-part wreckers. That motor was sold after I took the small bell housing C6 off it. will now take the plates off the motor and build a new set at work with the same patterns but will build in a slider that can allow the motor to go back more. will have to reset the trans and modify the mounting there also. thanks

06-19-2016, 12:35 PM	#16
Angie Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Vancouver area BC Canada Posts: 884 Vehicle Year: 90 & 83 project Vehicle Make: Ford Vehicle Model: Rangers Rep Power: 24	I am rebuilding the mounting plates, and getting the slots set back another inch and a half. this will set the motor deeper into the firewall. I have found a belt driven water pump that shaves off 1.5 inches from the depth, plus found an electric fan that is just 2 inches deep and has 16 inch blades. these mods will give me the missing depth for the engine. Will also be looking into that nice rad that was posted earlier in here to keep it all cool. thanks for the help and will post up pics as I get the parts .... arrrgh no cheap way to do these style builds.... cheers

06-20-2016, 08:43 AM	#18
Angie Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Vancouver area BC Canada Posts: 884 Vehicle Year: 90 & 83 project Vehicle Make: Ford Vehicle Model: Rangers Rep Power: 24	"you can't ever buy that experience, you can only earn it." How true....... I wasn't whining... i was just saying that every time on the truck it is two steps forward and one step back ... LOL cheers

06-20-2016, 11:25 AM	#19
RonD Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: canada Posts: 12,434 Vehicle Year: 1994 Vehicle Make: Ford Vehicle Model: Ranger Rep Power: 55	Didn't think you were, which is why I had "when it is done, of course, lol".

06-21-2016, 11:55 PM	#20
Angie Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Vancouver area BC Canada Posts: 884 Vehicle Year: 90 & 83 project Vehicle Make: Ford Vehicle Model: Rangers Rep Power: 24	Ok, stopped in at friends tonight to pick up 2 newly made plates to reset the engine deeper into the body. all bolted up great. now from the front of the timing cover to the deepest spot inside the grill there is 12.5 inches for placement of water pump, fan and rad. does anyone run this smaller nosed water pump in their build? if so how deep is it? thanks https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...view/make/ford if any of you guys were to measure from timing cover to inside, how much room you figure you are running? and this is the fan i am hoping to get. https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...Reviews=Newest cheers