Still no power....pulling hair out...

kimcrwbr1 said:

Did you replace the evr? The round cap has a filter under it you may be able to pull the cap and just shoot some wd through the vacuume line going to the egr that valveshould be open with the engine off?

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No i didnt replace it, but i swapped it with one from my old truck. The valve seems to be operating properly.

My pressure sensor should be here saturday. Im gonna try that. If im still having issue ill change the solenoid. But like i said when i pulled off the pulse tube the valve seemed to stop and start flow.

So...

Did you order the book yet?

Will it tell me much more then the chilton i dug outta the closet?

I don't know the Chilton book, to be honest. If it's remotely like a Haynes, then yes - they're completely different.

There's a ton of content in the book, but what it will have regarding codes is a complete list of possible codes for a particular engine/vehicle combo. From there, you'll see a KOER list and find code number 18. Next to that will be a troubleshooting section to go to. When you get to that, it will have a step by step process for chasing down the problem. You might see something like 'test vacuum at EGR valve with engine at 2000rpm. If <5 in Hg, proceed to step 3a. If >= 5in HG, skip to 5c.' You'll go through those steps until reaching a conclusion like 'EVR valve is faulty, replace and re-run KOER code test procedure'. It's very thorough.

fastpakr said:

I don't know the Chilton book, to be honest. If it's remotely like a Haynes, then yes - they're completely different.

There's a ton of content in the book, but what it will have regarding codes is a complete list of possible codes for a particular engine/vehicle combo. From there, you'll see a KOER list and find code number 18. Next to that will be a troubleshooting section to go to. When you get to that, it will have a step by step process for chasing down the problem. You might see something like 'test vacuum at EGR valve with engine at 2000rpm. If <5 in Hg, proceed to step 3a. If >= 5in HG, skip to 5c.' You'll go through those steps until reaching a conclusion like 'EVR valve is faulty, replace and re-run KOER code test procedure'. It's very thorough.

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Oh wow. Ok yeah. Chilton is basically unbolt this and rebolt it on.

Guess i shoulda listened to you in the first place lol.

Link if you still need it:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/362233304744

fastpakr said:

Link if you still need it:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/362233304744

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Thanks bud.

bobbywalter said:

eco booooooooooooost.

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adsm08 said:

You know we are talking about a 2.9 with 86TM heads, right?

If they aren't already cracked that much boost will probably just blow the heads straight off.

Maybe fewer Os and Ss and Ts, and a smaller font.

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i was just underlying the first post...

i was inferring he shit can this turd and swap in a 2.0 ecoboost.


its the right thing to do.

Ok.....today was a productive day...

Figured out why it wasnt hardly running at all, evendently the gas gauge is more accurate then i gave it credit for....

Ok now onto important business...

I took a light and shined into the throttle body/plenium.

Right behind the TB was a glacial mound of carbon. I pulled off the TB, and realized, holy shit thats the EGR passage....

I cleaned the EGR passage but hit a "wall", thought it was a bend in the passageway, i was using a screwdriver so i didnt force the issue. Upon finding the mound, i removed the EGR, what i thought was a wall, was in fact, a hard, rock of carbon.

So i went to work with carb cleaner (i know, bad idea), i had to HAMMER a headbolt of an old flat head briggs thru the mound of carbon, i was finally able to remove ehh, 85-90% of it.

Put everything back togther and the truck is now running like a 2.8, instead of a 2.3. So now on to figure out why its not running like a 2.9.

Im not sure that was the EGR issue, i already ordered the sensor so ill take the 10 minutes and throw it on.

It acclerates way better, and holds speed much better, and the popping and stalling on deceleration is gone....

So, untill that book comes in the mail...any thoughts on this code 18 shit?

have you replaced the dizzy with a known good one?



you said something about power through the fat bastard diode critter being good..i assume you ohm'ed it and it looked good.....so i futher assume that pin 4 at the ecm side ohms correctly to the negative coil terminal.

that circuit ties the pin 4 at the eec, neg side of coil....and tachometer wires together.




eec4 is pretty dumb....which is a good thing. the mechanical issue you found from the egr is one typical thing that can happen that the pcm will never directly tell you.



theres all sorts of possible causes...like
combined with some collapsed or simply weak lifters due to some crap that broke loose causing partial chronic oil passage blockage that alters the valve events to the negative...this in itself can be intermittent....seen it allot in the early years wiith penzoil or other crap oil after the inside of the engines coke up...the exhast setup on these turds will coke shitty oil up along the valve covers, and if it gets loose and particles make it to the pump....shit happens.



but a well worn dizzy shaft giving the hall fits is more common. may want to just pull the intake right off and the valve covers and have a look at the poor lil fawker. it will make setting the dizzy up easy and you can gawk right at the valves and see what they are doing...

Erase the memory and then disconnect the battery for at least 1/2 an hour to reset the computer values. Then run it a couple of comlete warm ups and check the codes while the engine is hot KOER. You must reset the ecm when you change or clean a component so the computer can set the new values. One of the quirks of the EEC IV

I may just swap out the whole upper intake, its pretty nasty.

That being said i couldnt get a good ohm reading at that resistor because it maxed my meter out.

I havent swapped distributors yet. May do that on saturday.


I doubt the inside of this engine is very nasty, it was 2300 miles before the oil even started turning dark.

kimcrwbr1 said:

Erase the memory and then disconnect the battery for at least 1/2 an hour to reset the computer values. Then run it a couple of comlete warm ups and check the codes while the engine is hot KOER. You must reset the ecm when you change or clean a component so the computer can set the new values. One of the quirks of the EEC IV

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I didnt do that before my little test drive, ill do it tomorrow and see what happens.

Did you disconnect the spout jumper to check the base timing? Maybe that is what gave you the code 18? The wiggle test can help with a intermittent fault.

kimcrwbr1 said:

Did you disconnect the spout jumper to check the base timing? Maybe that is what gave you the code 18? The wiggle test can help with a intermittent fault.

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The code 18 was there before i pulled the spout to do the timing.