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Still no power....pulling hair out...


rusty ol ranger

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Ok what ive done..

Cap.
Plugs.
Rotor.
Wires.
Fuel filter.
Frame pump.
EGR valve.
Vaccuum hose to FPR was blocked (for some reason)

Passes KOEO test, still getting a code 18 (memory) and 33 KOER codes.

Truck has some giddy up when cold (still, not like it should) as soon as it hits temp it has no power, bogging out after shifting, loosing speed up hills (that it didnt before), doesnt stutter, missfire, or anything.

However, if you downshift at a speed to where the engine has to rev a bit, itll pop a few times after revving for maybe 15 seconds, then when you mash the clutch it acts like it wants to die.

No smoke.
No fuel in FPR line.
Runs good otherwise, although idle is a bit shaky, holds 17-18 on vac gauge.

Any ideas??????
 


RonD

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Do Blip test with vacuum gauge

say vacuum is 18 at idle
open throttle quickly then let it snap closed, blip it
vacuum should drop to 0 quickly then return to 18 quickly
If its slow to drop and slow to return to 18 then exhaust is plugged up


Make sure SPOUT wire got reconnected after setting spark timing, lack of computer assisted spark advance will be a lack of power
The TFI module does the centrifugal advance, RPM advance, but you need the computer assist spark advance for instant acceleration and power spark advance, which is sent to TFI module on the SPOUT wire
 
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rusty ol ranger

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Do Blip test with vacuum gauge

say vacuum is 18 at idle
open throttle quickly then let it snap closed, blip it
vacuum should drop to 0 quickly then return to 18 quickly
If its slow to drop and slow to return to 18 then exhaust is plugged up

Forgot to add...

I did this. Needle snapped right back like it should.
 

rusty ol ranger

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Do Blip test with vacuum gauge

say vacuum is 18 at idle
open throttle quickly then let it snap closed, blip it
vacuum should drop to 0 quickly then return to 18 quickly
If its slow to drop and slow to return to 18 then exhaust is plugged up


Make sure SPOUT wire got reconnected after setting spark timing, lack of computer assisted spark advance will be a lack of power
The TFI module does the centrifugal advance, RPM advance, but you need the computer assist spark advance for instant acceleration and power spark advance, which is sent to TFI module on the SPOUT wire
Also forgot to add...

Timing is set to 10* BTDC and removing spout does make a difference in the way it runs, so CPU must be in control of timing.
 

rusty ol ranger

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ACT?
MAP?

Getting desperate here lol.

That DPFE sensor whatever for the EGR wouldnt be causing this would it?

Really need to get this sorted out.
 

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Also forgot to add...

Timing is set to 10* BTDC and removing spout does make a difference in the way it runs, so CPU must be in control of timing.
Is timing set to 10 BTDC with the spout in or out?

Also, 33 isn't an engine running code as far as I know. Can you double check that one?
 
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kimcrwbr1

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Thoroughly check the harness especially around the exhaust manifolds for burnt, cracked broken wires and fix as necessary always solve the lowest number first and check the codes after you reset the computer and erase the memory. Code18 is the eca receiving a improper pip signal usually wire or connector issues.
 

rusty ol ranger

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Is timing set to 10 BTDC with the spout in or out?

Also, 33 isn't an engine running code as far as I know. Can you double check that one?
10 BTDC with spout pulled out.

And yes the 33 with engine running puzzled me to. I got a code 11 (pass) on the KOEO test.

However, i forgot to add this in. I got one of those digital OBD 1 scanners, when i plug it in for the running test it seems like the engine does not rev as high as it should, and it never displays the number of cylinders.

I thought the reader was screwy but i hooked it to my 460 and everything worked properly.

As far as the harness, i havent looked underneath to the O2 wires, but everything else seems to look legit. No butchery or obvious rotting/burn marks. Id like to elimnate everything else before i go chasing wires.

It just feels like its in some sort of limp mode. Ive tried clearing codes with the reader, and by unhooking the battery, 33 comes and goes but 18 does not.

Could this be some sort of odd distributor/TFI issue? I swapped TFIs off rusty #1 which that TFI was old but didnt see a whole lot of useage.

Also wondering if its the ECM itself. I havent swapped the one out of rusty #1 yet cause i dont want to if that aint the problem.

Im also curious, i can get a 80,000 mile ECM from an 88 ranger at my local junkyard for 40 bucks. It was junked cause of a dead A4LD. If i went this route to eliminate any EGR/knock sensor weirdness would it work coming from a A4LD truck into a manual?
 
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Paulos

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Have you checked the ignition module connector? They go bad. I replaced mine not too long ago. It may be producing the code 18 you're getting (I've had it happen in the past). I remember pulling the plug back out of the module slightly, and that would remove the code - temporarily. I figured doing so was putting more pressure on the connections. Changing the connector fixed the problem. They cost a lot less at Rock Auto or Amazon. A bad connection at the ignition module can cause back-firing (I once had a muffler explode due to this).

I would check the EGR valve position sensor and it's connector for code 33. I don't know if the code 18 SPOUT (SPark OUT) error can cause the code 33 error (perhaps when it back-fires), but I suppose it's possible.
 

rusty ol ranger

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Have you checked the ignition module connector? They go bad. I replaced mine not too long ago. It may be producing the code 18 you're getting (I've had it happen in the past). I remember pulling the plug back out of the module slightly, and that would remove the code - temporarily. I figured doing so was putting more pressure on the connections. Changing the connector fixed the problem. They cost a lot less at Rock Auto or Amazon. A bad connection at the ignition module can cause back-firing (I once had a muffler explode due to this).

I would check the EGR valve position sensor and it's connector for code 33. I don't know if the code 18 SPOUT (SPark OUT) error can cause the code 33 error (perhaps when it back-fires), but I suppose it's possible.
Hmm....didnt think about the TFI connector. I know when i pulled off the old TFI a few of the pins were a bit yellowy. Ill check into that tomorrow. I only get a backfire on a downshift, and not right away.

Maybe ill try unplugging it a little and running it?
 

Denisefwd93

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Still have a rattling cat?
 

rusty ol ranger

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Paulos

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About a month ago I bought a new high quality (theoretically) ignition module. It seemed to work fine that night after swapping it in. The next morning I was on the side of the road halfway to work. It started back up after a minute or two, then died again. When I did a wiggle test on the connector the engine immediately died. I pulled the connector off the TFI module, removed the red plastic retainer in the connector, used a very small screwdriver to pry on the individual contacts to make them snugger on the module's blade terminals, put everything back together, and it worked. After work I drove straight to an Advanced Auto that had the connector in stock and changed it that night. I haven't had a problem with it since then. I didn't measure, but I think the new module had slightly thinner blade terminals than the original module, and after 31 years the connections on the old connector didn't want to expand just a little more to accomodate the thinner blades of the new module.
 

rusty ol ranger

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Ok guys one more question...

The vaccuum hose to the FPR was completly blocked. There was no fuel in the line, however, i can unplug and replug in the vaccuum line and it makes no difference in how it runs, and obviously i was running around with no vaccuum to the FPR anyways.

So my question is, could it possibly be the FPR? Do they always leak upon failure? Or is it possible the thing is stuck in one position and not allowing enough pressure in under load?
 

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FPR uses a spring to hold its valve closed, spring pressure is set for approx. 43psi, so at 44psi it would be pushed open a bit and let some fuel/pressure flow out thru the Return Fuel Line to the gas tank, but would close again at 43psi.

The vacuum hose is there for two reasons, one is safety, external leak in FPR's valve could cause a fire, second is to have a more stable fuel pressure, 30-35psi.

Plugging the vacuum hose should get you higher fuel pressure at the injectors.
Maybe previous owner was having similar issues with leaking FPR, not external leaking, so removed vacuum to get pressure back up.

You can remove the Return Fuel Line from the FPR and put a towel down under FPR, then cycle key on and off to see if FPR is leaking fuel out under 40psi
 

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