New Engine, Now exhaust manifold gets red hot

Kyle17709 · Jan 28, 2019

While driving my 1994 2.3L manual Ranger I got caught in a flash flood. It ran for a day then died. Checked compression and ended up having to get a new oem rebuilt engine. Just finished the swap. She has a hard cold start but once warmed up or kept in the garage runs fine with little to no problem. Check engine light has been on since I've owned it so did not worry about it until I got done with a test drive and the exhaust is glowing pretty red hot. Shut her down ASAP and checked internet and codes.

So far I've: (According to Haynes manual)
Cut the CAT off just to check exhaust
Corrected code 335(egr pfe sensor)
Checked most air and coolant sensors with multimeter

Manifold still gets red hit, if not a bit less now and still get codes: 111(which I think might actually be the engine Id code which makes no sense),172(system indicates lean bank #1), 211( profile ignition pick up failure), 218(not in Haynes manual), 452(no input from vehicle speed sensor).
Please ask any questions needed and all help is appreciated. At a loss

adsm08 · Jan 28, 2019

I'm not up on my EEC-IV codes, but IIRC 111 is system test not complete. It is similar to a P1000 in an OBDII system.

A lean condition can make everything run hot, including the exhaust. Check your vacumm lines, make sure your intake is torqued and the gaskets aren't damaged.

211 can have multiple meanings, and I have gotten in frequently on vehicles that had no other issues. Ignore it for now.

218, beats me.

452 is another unimportant code, unless you have an automatic transmission, or cruise control.

Kyle17709 · Jan 28, 2019

Thank you. Vacumn lines are good. Air intake, egr, and throttle body are all on tight. Gaskets were all brand new with the engine I suppose there are more than just the engine gaskets you mean?
Thanks for the insight on the other codes as well.
Anything else you can throw at me? I'll double and triple check everything(again) but these initial things all seem to check out

Eric Connelly · Jan 28, 2019

I had a similar problem on my 2.3t motor, the manifold would glow red hot and it had a lack of power. The problem ended up being the ignition timing was 15 degrees retarded(the distributor hold down bolt had come loose) . I would suggest checking your ignition timing!

adsm08 · Jan 28, 2019

Eric Connelly said:
I had a similar problem on my 2.3t motor, the manifold would glow red hot and it had a lack of power. The problem ended up being the ignition timing was 15 degrees retarded(the distributor hold down bolt had come loose) . I would suggest checking your ignition timing!

He doesn't have a distributor.

Eric Connelly · Jan 28, 2019

adsm08 said:
He doesn't have a distributor.

I know that, my point was the timing could be off. Maybe the timing belt is off a tooth, cam sensor, or something along those lines. Just sharing my personal experience.

tomw · Jan 30, 2019

If the computer thinks bank #1 (the only one) is lean, it will add fuel to the engine. Add enough fuel, and some may still be burning when the exhaust valve opens, which could cause a glowing manifold. Have you connected a VOM to the O2 sensor to see if it is producing voltage? The sensor could have been cooked when the original engine got doused... They are not expensive, and if working, will help get better fuel mileage.
If you have not checked it, the MAF could have some 'stuff' on the wires, which could affect the computer, giving it the wrong airflow reading, again leading to an incorrect fuel mixture. If you open it up, be careful to not damage the wires which are fragile.
Did you change any of the cam/crank sensors from original, or did you just swap them onto the new engine? If changed, that could affect timing.
tom

Kyle17709 · Feb 4, 2019

Sorry for late response, took a week off for morale.
Got to front of engine to check timing and found a loose crankshaft sensor so tightened that then dumbly out everything back together thinking that was the problem.... Surprise, it wasn't. Checked the timing marks and they appear fine but one is missing on the inner belt cover so hard to check that but the timing mark that actually has a degree measurement on it says it is 10 degrees off but that's not making sense since this is a new enginge from a factory that rebuilds them...??? The other marks appear fine. If no response before tomorrow I'm taking the harmonic balancer off to check the keyhole

snoranger · Feb 5, 2019

EEC-IV code #218

IDM signal open or high or left coil pack failure.

You may want to look into that.

Kyle17709 · Feb 5, 2019

Checked coil pack with a multimeter. It checked out fine with ohms and voltage. Where else do I chase this 218 code?

tomw · Feb 6, 2019

Given that 'open' is in the list of causes, and you just swapped a block out and in, I would look for a smashed wire. With 500+ lbs flip-flopping and being handled, it's easy to get wires damaged while hoisting things out, or lowering them into place.
You could get the wiring from bbbind dot com, and check the wire at both ends, resistance and ability to carry amperage, and rule it out as a possible cause.
tom

Kyle17709 · Feb 8, 2019

Fuel pump had poor pressure. Replaced it and pressure is fine now but problem still persists. Chasing wiring is beyond me but I'm going to give it my all. Totally at a loss for things to even check at this point.
Thanks for all the help gentleman

Kyle17709 · Feb 8, 2019

Finally solved it. Such a good feeling
Amongst the other things already stated, I had a bad egr valve

Kyle17709 · Feb 11, 2019

Nevermind they are still glowing. Does anybody have any further suggestions!?

New Engine, Now exhaust manifold gets red hot

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