How to Replace Clutch Release Bearing

backporch · Dec 7, 2018

I received a new clutch release bearing as part of a clutch kit.

I can't figure out how to slide the old release bearing off. It looks like the sleeve that it slides over has a clip that must be removed, but it doesn't look like it is removable.

Does anyone know how to remove the old bearing?

Thanks

Also. any suggestions for lube on the shaft? the kit came with clutch/brake lube. was wondering if that should go on the splines, and or the part that fits into the pilot bearing?? Where the release bearing contacts the clutch fingers?

RonD · Dec 8, 2018

It is always better to replace an internal slave when transmission is off they are not expensive, they come with new throwout bearing(clutch release bearing) installed

But it does come off and can be replaced, pull back the pre-load spring and hold it back, there is a retaining clip(should have new one in the box with new throwout bearing)
Use small screwdriver or pick to remove clip.

Pilot bearing should also be replaced
And rear main seal if possible
These are both inexpensive parts and hard to get to when they fail

backporch · Dec 8, 2018

Strange Clip

Hi RonD. Thanks for the good advice.

The retainer looks like a ring, but I can't see where it ends to even try to pry it off. It looks like one continuous ring but does rotate around the sleeve when I push back on the release bearing.

backporch · Dec 8, 2018

magic retaining ring

I just looked again and the ring appears to have no start/end. I ran a razor blade along the entire edge and didn't catch anything. Might just continue without replacing at this point.

The replacement clutch kit only came with the bearing. No ring. Saw something online that said to turn the bearing holder to remove. I assumed that the entire sleeve would come out with it, but that didn't do anything either.

I am surprised that I can't find any instruction on this anywhere I have searched

Denisefwd93 · Dec 8, 2018

You're not finding the answer you want because it's not the answer you need. replace the whole slave cylinder. I highly recommend using pre bled everything, mc, line & slave. just reading all the problems people have bleeding these things should make your decision easy!

backporch · Dec 8, 2018

Despite Good Advice...

I know the best advice is to replace all the inexpensive parts that are difficult to get at, but I am at the point where I am about to put the engine back in and was trying to utilize a part that came with the clutch kit. If it is not easily swapped, I am going to skip it.

Still looking for advice on just changing the bearing.

Thanks

Bird76Mojo · Dec 8, 2018

The "ring" holding it on is probably a "spiro-lock" type. It's always recommended to change the entire throwout bearing/slave cylinder as a unit. Most that don't follow this advice eventually regret it when their slave goes bad...

2nd Google result, right here on theRangerStation: https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88939

GB

backporch · Dec 8, 2018

Yes

I was not familiar with this type of retainer, but the only way I can describe it is similar to a key chain ring but made out of steel that is like feeler gauge thick. I scraped around the front facing part of the retainer to find where it ended and I was able to use a pic like was suggested to pry up an edge and lift and peel/unwind the retainer.

The on and off was pretty easy. I gave it a good spin by hand to make sure it was seated. Would probably have been easier with better vision and lighting.

New release bearing is installed. Thanks for all the help.

Macneil87 · Dec 25, 2018

Denisefwd93 said:
You're not finding the answer you want because it's not the answer you need. replace the whole slave cylinder. I highly recommend using pre bled everything, mc, line & slave. just reading all the problems people have bleeding these things should make your decision easy!

Off topic a bit but most hydraulic clutches are a PITA to bleed. My buddy and I did a hydro clutch on a Saturn ion redline (read supercharged GM plastic shopping cart) and my god did that suck. Did it on a 2 post hoist and we’re both mechanics by trade..too much beer or too late in the evening I’m not sure lol.

Get pre bled if you can!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

adsm08 · Dec 26, 2018

Macneil87 said:
Off topic a bit but most hydraulic clutches are a PITA to bleed. My buddy and I did a hydro clutch on a Saturn ion redline (read supercharged GM plastic shopping cart) and my god did that suck. Did it on a 2 post hoist and we’re both mechanics by trade..too much beer or too late in the evening I’m not sure lol.

Get pre bled if you can!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ha, try it on an SN194 Mustang. No check valve in the line, held by a butterfly pin, and no bleeder on the slave. Dumbest BS Ford and Getrag ever put us through.

How to Replace Clutch Release Bearing

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RonD

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Denisefwd93

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