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1999 Ford Ranger 3.0 Cylinder #4 misfire - Tried everything??


austinramage

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Hey guys I have just purchased a 1999 Ford Ranger 3.0, 2WD, Extended cab 4 door, automatic transmission, 180k

Has a misfire that is slightly intermittent sometimes it will go away, and @ WOT it runs like a dream.

90% of the time it just idles like garbage, CEL is on.


I'm just @ a loss at this point. is there a way to check the injector without removing the intake manifold?? If so how would I go about it.

What I have done so far - -

Compression check 150PSI across the board (+/- 2-3PSI)
New plugs / wires - no dice
Coil replaced with known good coil - no dice
Ran injector cleaner threw it - no dice
 


davecarr414

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i would remove the injectors and have them checked, and you do need to take the upper intake off, its easy though
 

Big Jim M

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Yep!

Hey guys I have just purchased a 1999 Ford Ranger 3.0, 2WD, Extended cab 4 door, automatic transmission, 180k

Has a misfire that is slightly intermittent sometimes it will go away, and @ WOT it runs like a dream.

90% of the time it just idles like garbage, CEL is on.


I'm just @ a loss at this point. is there a way to check the injector without removing the intake manifold?? If so how would I go about it.

What I have done so far - -

Compression check 150PSI across the board (+/- 2-3PSI)
New plugs / wires - no dice
Coil replaced with known good coil - no dice
Ran injector cleaner threw it - no dice
At WOT the timing is retarded and the mixture is rich.. Which makes the engine run good.. At part throttle the mixture is at it's leanest and the timing is at it's maximum. Which makes the most power.
If a little air is leaking into the intake system there can be a slight to badmissing at idle or even part throttle. Then at WOT the timing and the mixture MAY cover up the extra air in the system.
So I'd be looking for a vac leak at or near that cylinder.
Also a complete compression check is in order to see if you have a valve problem in that one cylinder.
Big JIm:hottubfun::wub:
 

austinramage

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Thank you for your responses guys!


Big Jim, I already did a compression check and have 150PSI in #4 every other cylinder has 150+/- 2-3 PSI


How do I check for vacuum leaks on that cylinder??? I've heard spraying starting fluid on the vacuum lines?


-Austin
 

Big Jim M

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Me?

Thank you for your responses guys!


Big Jim, I already did a compression check and have 150PSI in #4 every other cylinder has 150+/- 2-3 PSI


How do I check for vacuum leaks on that cylinder??? I've heard spraying starting fluid on the vacuum lines?


-Austin
I like to use a small propane tank with a long rubber hose connected to it. I Start the engine and turn on the propane and then I put the end with the propane coming out next to everything that even MIGHT have a vac leak.
The propane will increase the idle when it is consumed by the engine.
Take your time and you should be able to find the leak if it has one. The leak should be at or near the runner to that particular cylinder on the intake.
Big JIm:hottubfun::wub:
 

Froggmann

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It takes less than 30 minutes to remove the upper intake. Resistance on the injector should be in the 15-16 ohm range.
 

austinramage

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Ok so I spoke with the previous owner of the truck again, he told me that before I purchased it it had a new transmission installed @ the dealership and that the dealership rebuilt the heads because #4 had a bad exhaust valve.



So he faxed me the receipts/ work order from Ford and I called them and asked them if they were legit.. they are.


So now I'm @ a loss, I've been busy and haven't had a chance to check the injector or for vacuum leaks but I figured that this is a "turn in events" and might be worth posting???


-Austin
 

Big Jim M

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Take it to the dealer with the receipt in hand and try to get them to do the correct thing this time.
Big JIm
 

Rearanger

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Hey guys I have just purchased a 1999 Ford Ranger...Has a misfire that is slightly intermittent sometimes it will go away, and @ WOT it runs like a dream.90% of the time it just idles like garbage, CEL is on.
Ok so I spoke with the previous owner of the truck again, he told me that before I purchased it it had a new transmission installed @ the dealership and that the dealership rebuilt the heads because #4 had a bad exhaust valve. So he faxed me the receipts/ work order from Ford and I called them and asked them if they were legit.. they are.
So was the truck sold to you under false pretenses by the previous owner? I'm with Big Jim and would also suggest you expect the dealer to make it right. But it seems the previous owner may have found the fight to find the cause not worth it and so that's why he sold it. Did he make any claims as to the running condition?
 

austinramage

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The truck was sold to me "needing a tune up"

Run decent, plug wires were toast so I figured wires plug, coil worst case.

It ran and drove great, I drove it home 500 miles and by the time I got home, the CEL light was on and it was gutless - wouldn't go over 65 on the freeway.

I called the dealership and they said because its been 6 months+ after they did the work "there is nothing we can do" Also the dealership is 500 miles away.

I am very savvy mechanically, but I'm just at a loss.

I did the propane trick, used a small torch and the engine stayed put didn't idle up at all.

I haven't taken the intake manifold off yet, just have been busy @ work and having personal issues. I did "peak" with a small mirror to see if the injector was damaged, but it looks very new compared to the others. # 4 that is.

It takes over 100 miles for the CEL to come back on, I threw some Seafoam in the gas tank though maybe gunk in the fuel system.

I'm just done throwing parts at the truck, paid cash for the truck, now I've spent the last 200~ I had budgeted for minor repairs. So I'm broke and have a broken truck.


-Austin
 
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Froggmann

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Test the injector, looking at it won't tell anything.

I've replaced two this year, it's not a big deal. $53 (for my 99' atleast) to your door through www.rockauto.com for a Motorcraft injector.
 

Rearanger

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The truck was sold to me "needing a tune up"
Run decent, plug wires were toast so I figured wires plug, coil worst case....I drove it home 500 miles and by the time I got home, the CEL light was on and it was gutless - wouldn't go over 65 on the freeway.
"Needing a tune up" doesn't explain anything, especially your symptoms and I think the owner knew of this problem, had tried to fix it, could not, so decided to unload the problem on the next owner. If the paperwork does not say "as is" and depending on vehicle sales laws in your state it may be possible to take this to small claims court - but that is not without some up-front costs and time requirements.

I called the dealership and they said because its been 6 months+ after they did the work "there is nothing we can do"
Is that their normal "warranty"?

Also the dealership is 500 miles away.
That's going to be your biggest problem (and their best defense) even if you can prove their work was defective and if the problem is related to their work.

It takes over 100 miles for the CEL to come back on,
Does the CEL turn itself off, or are you erasing code each time?

I'm just done throwing parts at the truck, paid cash for the truck, now I've spent the last 200~ I had budgeted for minor repairs. So I'm broke and have a broken truck.
Unfortunately it'll take more money to solve this. If problem is pointing to injectors then I'd pull all of them and send them to http://www.witchhunter.com/ for testing/cleaning/replacement if needed. You'll get a before & after flow chart and report plus new parts for reinstallation. Price is reasonable and at least then you'll know if injector or not.
 

Eaglefixer

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if your CEL is on need to have the codes read and post the results.
 

davecarr414

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swap the injectors and see if the missfire changes cylinders, then you know its an injector
 

austinramage

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Thanks for all your help guys!!

As to the state law in Oregon/Washington its AS-IS where is no recourse for selling/misrepresenting a vehicle.

Yeah I know it will cost me more money, but I don't have to be happy about it.


Engine light only goes off when I clear it, its a misfire #4 code every time.


the 500 mile difference in gas alone isn't worth driving there, I will save money just buying an injector if its a bad injector.

Would a bad 0-ring on the injector possible be the cause???


-Austin
 

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