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1983-2011 Off-Road & 4x4 Ford Ranger's Show of your trucks, or post your build threads. This is NOT a help forum. Post your questions in the Help Forums further down

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Old 11-06-2018, 10:04 PM   #931
pjtoledo
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Default try this to hold the flange

https://www.therangerstation.com/for...d.php?t=178758

bolt a pipe in any hole, turn it until it strikes the socket, push
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Old 11-06-2018, 10:12 PM   #932
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https://www.therangerstation.com/for...d.php?t=178758

bolt a pipe in any hole, turn it until it strikes the socket, push
No, I am good that way. Part of the driveshaft is still on the front pinion. I need to revisit it, it is hard to hold the pinion and get after the strap bolts at the same time. Initial plan was to not deal with it until the axle is in the truck then I could just lock the hubs and go to town.

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Last edited by 85_Ranger4x4; 11-06-2018 at 10:15 PM.
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Old 11-07-2018, 11:01 AM   #933
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Stick a screwdriver through between the shaft and pinion yokes and use that to hold the pinion while you undo the bolts. Hope that makes sense. That's how I do them with the driveshaft installed in the truck - easier than unlocking hubs since you can spin the shaft as necessary.
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Old 11-07-2018, 11:56 AM   #934
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Stick a screwdriver through between the shaft and pinion yokes and use that to hold the pinion while you undo the bolts. Hope that makes sense. That's how I do them with the driveshaft installed in the truck - easier than unlocking hubs since you can spin the shaft as necessary.
Laying on my back I can reach around and lock/unlock the DS hub without getting up. With the PS hub locked and the t-case in neutral it works great, I wish I could do the same for the rear...

I was going to try something like that. The axle was a badly neglected rustball though, I broke a torx bit trying it the first time around before I decided to just deal with it in the truck so I wasn't wrestling everything around on the bench.
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Last edited by 85_Ranger4x4; 11-07-2018 at 12:12 PM.
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Old 11-07-2018, 11:38 PM   #935
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Default plan B, with a modifier

use a pipe wrench to hold the yolk. or monster sized channel locks.

modifier: for the bolts that have hex head and torx, simply use both tools at the same time. wrench on the flats, torx in the center and pull both evenly.

another trick is to put considerable pressure on the bolt, not enough to break something, and hold the pressure for a couple of minutes.

still another, hit the straps with a punch or chisel to crack the rust lock.

as always when dealing with rust and stuck bolts, results may vary.

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Old 11-11-2018, 08:10 PM   #936
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I was told to do dishes and left unattended... something else sneaked into the pile.



It cleaned up pretty good, not so sure it is clear coated anymore. Lettering looks to be painted... eh. Going to need stripped and repolished.

Also ditched the carb spacer, it will clear the firewall now. If I have heat soak problems I will have to revisit it otherwise bang for buck this is the cheapest/easiest way to get it to work.





Drawing a blank so far for the according ductwork. Looked at gutter stuff at Home Depot, looks cheap and I doubt it would last long enough to even justify its $3 price tag in a hot engine bay. Vacuum stuff is too small. Tried to salvage the accordion part out of this:



It fits the snorkel perfectly... but is like 3x too short.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2cQixii]
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Old 11-11-2018, 08:51 PM   #937
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What about some of that aluminum, flexible dryer duct or would that be too wide?
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Old 11-11-2018, 09:13 PM   #938
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What about some of that aluminum, flexible dryer duct or would that be too wide?
Wanting to keep the OEM look of black, HD didn't have much of any drier stuff which was surprising. I haven't written it off though, I have a scrap of the silver I want to try before I buy more... gotta remember where I put it first though.
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