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CoreyTilton
Member
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2015
- Messages
- 157
- Reaction score
- 9
- Points
- 18
- Location
- Massachusetts
- Vehicle Year
- 1983
- Make / Model
- ranger
- Engine Size
- 302
- Transmission
- Manual
pictures of clutch fork and slave cylinder bracket attached.
few pictures where you can see the bellhousing a little better as well
again many thanks for everyone's info/help with figuring out hydraulic clutch stuff.
i have it working now currently, getting full engagement and full disengagement out of the clutch i believe. although i think in the spring i might still try to change out the master cylinder for an aftermarket one.
what i discovered was going on was this.
i was running a 3/4" bore stock ford ranger master cylinder, and a 1" bore chevy camaro slave cylinder.
in order to disengage the clutch enough to shift, i had so much preload on clutch fork, that the clutch was actually slipping under heavy load.
it looks like this was because of the smaller master cylinder to larger slave cylinder ratio.
what i did was order a dorman 7/8" bore ranger master cylinder, and a dorman 7/8" bore ranger slave cylinder.
they showed up and to my surprise were heavy duty metal castings. unlike the plastic ranger ones i have seen and used in the past.
i then custom threaded the rods for both the slave and master, so as to make them adjustable.
i used chevy camaro braided stainless lines and fittings, as those are the right length for my application, and seem to work well, and i bench bled the system.
i've done this like.... 5 times now, and have gotten really pretty damn good at bench bleading these things.
at this point i took the other setup off the truck.
i've had a few people ask me how im running a push type slave in this direction.
its a custom heavy steel bracket for the slave that bolts to the front of the bell housing. its using an 83 ranger style clutch fork. or a chevy clutch fork? i think its a ranger clutch fork. im not really sure. anyway, the pivot ball is on the drivers side.
this is what it looks like without the slave in there.
and then this is what it looks like with the slave re-installed
so with this setup, i currently have the clutch pedal adjusted pretty damn high.
i get disengagement/engagement pretty close to the floor, so i don't really want to adjust it lower, because i don't think i'll get full disengagement.
clutch pedal sits about 2" higher than the brake pedal.
so i mean, it's not ideal, but it does work.
i'm thinking it's good enough for the rest of this season, put her away for the winter, and come the spring i'll purchase a Wilwood or Tilton aftermarket Master with a 1" bore and the angle bracket to make it fit the ranger, and swap the master out then.
that little bit of extra bore, should allow me to adjust the pedal down a little bit for less throw of the pedal, but still push the slave the same distance.
in doing so it will also make the pedal stiffer, i know.
again, many many thanks everyone for the help.
i'm glad im not just shooting in the dark now.
- corey
few pictures where you can see the bellhousing a little better as well
again many thanks for everyone's info/help with figuring out hydraulic clutch stuff.
i have it working now currently, getting full engagement and full disengagement out of the clutch i believe. although i think in the spring i might still try to change out the master cylinder for an aftermarket one.
what i discovered was going on was this.
i was running a 3/4" bore stock ford ranger master cylinder, and a 1" bore chevy camaro slave cylinder.
in order to disengage the clutch enough to shift, i had so much preload on clutch fork, that the clutch was actually slipping under heavy load.
it looks like this was because of the smaller master cylinder to larger slave cylinder ratio.
what i did was order a dorman 7/8" bore ranger master cylinder, and a dorman 7/8" bore ranger slave cylinder.
they showed up and to my surprise were heavy duty metal castings. unlike the plastic ranger ones i have seen and used in the past.
i then custom threaded the rods for both the slave and master, so as to make them adjustable.
i used chevy camaro braided stainless lines and fittings, as those are the right length for my application, and seem to work well, and i bench bled the system.
i've done this like.... 5 times now, and have gotten really pretty damn good at bench bleading these things.
at this point i took the other setup off the truck.
i've had a few people ask me how im running a push type slave in this direction.
its a custom heavy steel bracket for the slave that bolts to the front of the bell housing. its using an 83 ranger style clutch fork. or a chevy clutch fork? i think its a ranger clutch fork. im not really sure. anyway, the pivot ball is on the drivers side.
this is what it looks like without the slave in there.
and then this is what it looks like with the slave re-installed
so with this setup, i currently have the clutch pedal adjusted pretty damn high.
i get disengagement/engagement pretty close to the floor, so i don't really want to adjust it lower, because i don't think i'll get full disengagement.
clutch pedal sits about 2" higher than the brake pedal.
so i mean, it's not ideal, but it does work.
i'm thinking it's good enough for the rest of this season, put her away for the winter, and come the spring i'll purchase a Wilwood or Tilton aftermarket Master with a 1" bore and the angle bracket to make it fit the ranger, and swap the master out then.
that little bit of extra bore, should allow me to adjust the pedal down a little bit for less throw of the pedal, but still push the slave the same distance.
in doing so it will also make the pedal stiffer, i know.
again, many many thanks everyone for the help.
i'm glad im not just shooting in the dark now.
- corey
