97 Ranger 2.3 5 speed about to drive me nuts. Needs some HELP!!

JamesH · Oct 11, 2018

I'd say you found at least most of tour problem.

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Terryt · Oct 11, 2018

I'm looking at this thinking the cam is a tooth off and that the oil pump is on the wrong mark. Correct me if I'm wrong. And can I achieve tdc on crank without removing the harmonic balancer?

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tomw · Oct 12, 2018

The keyway should be at 12 o'clock with the crankshaft at TDC. If you can see the groove in the damper or pulley, set it to midnight and you are there.
Otherwise, set using the belt cover, and make a mark on the nose of the crankshaft or on one of the pulleys. I'd mark it so TDC was with the mark at noon. More light than at midnight.
tom

Shran · Oct 12, 2018

The oil pump doesn't matter, you can put it where ever you want - NOT true on 2.3's with a distributor, but yours doesn't have one so the only thing spinning is the oil pump.

You don't have to remove the crank pulley to reset the timing - the only time that's necessary is if you're removing the belt.

Terryt · Oct 12, 2018

Ok so after moving the cam one tooth this is what I ended up with. Will it work or not and I'm at tdc according to the cover.

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tomw · Oct 13, 2018

I do not think you have any problem, as going a tooth in either direction would make things worse. Should be fine.
tom

Terryt · Oct 13, 2018

Well the only change that made was seems like it has a little more power than it had before. Still have the low idle miss and the intermittent take off sputter. And sputter in between shifts unless I ease in to the throttle between shift. Check mode $06 data and I'm getting a tid $10 cid $21 fail and a tid $41 cid $12 and I have a p1443 code pending.

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cstarbard · Oct 13, 2018

Regarding your P1443 code in case that becomes an actual code rather than just pending-

It pertains to the evap system as well as 1445 and neither is a very specific code. The evap system basically consists of The solenoid/purge valve, thermistor ("thermal resistor"), your carbon canister, vacuum lines running from the tank, and a small plastic valve on top of the tank. It is supposed to suck gas vapors from the tank (which in the old days vented to atmosphere) through your engine, thereby possibly gaining a small amount of fuel economy and reducing evaporative emissions.

This is a terrific write up on how to test the various parts of the evap system on the 2.3:

http://asavage.dyndns.org/ftp/Aerostar/OBD-P1443/FR_EPS.htm

Of course make sure your lines running from the tank to the carbon canister, and from the carbon canister to purge valve, thermistor, and to the intake are all intact, or just replace them.

Also, be sure to test the electrical connectors that go to your purge valve and thermistor. In my case, my thermistor and purge valve and lines were all ok, but the electrical pigtails going to these two components were damaged and not allowing full voltage to the purge solenoid and thermistor. Also make sure your carbon canister is not plugged with debris- there are two vent plugs on top of the canister you can pop out to allow you to see into the top. My canister was totally plugged with ancient dead insects.

Sorry I can't offer any more help on your miss + sputter.

Terryt · Oct 13, 2018

Thanks for the info

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Terryt · Oct 15, 2018

Now my next problem is my heater is just luck warm flushed core and can't find vacuum leak anywhere but I dont have any vacuum to the grey vacuum line under the hood going to the valve on heater hoses. Any suggestions

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tomw · Oct 16, 2018

Wow. Kinda hard to read. Find a 'return' key, and dance on it a bit to see if it's broken.
Here is some punctuation in case you need it: ..... ,,,,, ?????

The vacuum routes from the intake, tees into a reservoir, and then leads to the back side of the heater control panel. When the controls are moved from cooling to heating, or the temp control is moved from the coldest setting, a vacuum valve should allow vacuum to open the coolant control valve allowing hot coolant to flow through the heater core.
Check for vacuum at the control. Check for vacuum at the reservoir. If the MODE is controlled by vacuum, and it works, then the vacuum problem is more narrowed in areas to look. A vacuum source should be at the control for MODE and HEAT, so figure out how the control works or check the vacuum line leading to the valve on the heater hose.
tom

Terryt · Oct 16, 2018

I have come to a conclusion that I'm not get vacuum to the grey line going to the valve on the heater hoses but cannot find a leak or kink or reason why

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modelageek · Oct 16, 2018

Shran said:
The oil pump doesn't matter, you can put it where ever you want - NOT true on 2.3's with a distributor, but yours doesn't have one so the only thing spinning is the oil pump.

You don't have to remove the crank pulley to reset the timing - the only time that's necessary is if you're removing the belt.

i think this is inaccurate. 95 + have a cam sensor behind the oilpump. The marks need to be lined up.

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Terryt · Oct 16, 2018

Yes I figured that out when I took it apart and the oil pump was in time and the cam was one tooth out seems like it made a little difference but wasn't a complete fix

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Shran · Oct 16, 2018

modelageek said:
i think this is inaccurate. 95 + have a cam sensor behind the oilpump. The marks need to be lined up.

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I don't recall seeing anything like that when I did the timing belt (more than once) on my old '96, I suppose it's possible that it had an earlier engine installed at some point, though. If this is indeed the case with 95 up I stand corrected.

97 Ranger 2.3 5 speed about to drive me nuts. Needs some HELP!!

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