LS vs open diff

Rudder · Apr 29, 2011

Anyone see a reason why not to install a LS in a Ranger? I thought this would be a first/simple upgrade over the standard open diff?

nb11 · Apr 29, 2011

A L/S would be a great upgrade, as it allows power to be applied to both wheels when you get in th throttle. However, a locker would give you even more traction, because it truely locks the differential, where a limited slip will give you about 75% of lock up. Hence the name, limited slip. Also, if you get an automatic locker like a Lock-Rite, it'll probably cost less and be so much easier to install. Your question should be restated as "Locker vs L/S," in which case you would find a ton of info on this site by searching.

85_Ranger4x4 · Apr 29, 2011

For a street driven truck a limited slip is perfect, much more forgiving than a locker.

As far as cost... just find an axle that already has it, switch axles as an assembly and resell your axle. Since with a 2300 you likely are 2wd it would be an opertune time to change ratios to a different factory ratio if you wanted too.

-Nathan- · Apr 29, 2011

I just cured my open diff last weekend.....

strvger · Apr 29, 2011

^^ crude, but effective.

adsm08 · Apr 29, 2011

-Nathan- said:
I just cured my open diff last weekend.....

Did you weld the R&P gears too, or just the spiders? You know you get much better traction welding the R&P together too.

Stxrangerbumper · Apr 29, 2011

just the spiders ??

I think it's just this thing where, otherwise, if his welding ring and pinion will not turn its

bigblockford79 · Apr 29, 2011

-Nathan- said:
I just cured my open diff last weekend.....

Sure hope you NEVER have to replace an axle bearing or seal, that cross pin is going to be a HUGE BIT$* to get back out of there. I had a couple very small spatter marks and it was bad enough getting the pin in and out.

I have a question. Maybe you or someone could try to explain the logic behind welding the entire spider gear and then welding that pile o weld to the cast iron carrier.

My thought process is this - Since the only thing you need to accomplish is keeping the gears from rotating, why all the extra welding and the extra heat that comes from extended welding? When I did my 8.8 for my street truck I filled the 8 locations where the spider gear teeth mesh, I put just enough weld to fill the void made by the teeth. I felt that anything more than that is just wasting wire, gas, electricity and time. I understand some of the logic behind welding the spiders to the housing because it takes some of the load off the cross pin. But all that heat into an already fairly light duty cast iron carrier can't be good for it.

Stxrangerbumper · Apr 29, 2011

This is very well change the seal wheel like that, I did not complicate , just removed the c-clip and here it came out

-Nathan- · Apr 29, 2011

Simmer down boys. The spatter was removed after this picture. The cross pin and ring/pinion were coated with grease, so the spatter wouldn't stick. Cross pin can be taken out whenever I like. It is welded like that to create a spool. Welding just the corners of the gears, relies on the gears not breaking, the spider gears being the weak point of that 7.5. Hence everything gets welded and is a much stronger solid unit. Oh and for the record, the carrier was pre heated and allowed to cool slowly.

bigblockford79 · Apr 29, 2011

Stxrangerbumper said:
This is very well change the seal wheel like that, I did not complicate , just removed the c-clip and here it came out

I have only messed with 1 7.5" and a couple 8.8" rear axles, but both designs require the cross pin to be removed to allow the axle shafts to move in far enough for the clip to come off. So, not being able to remove the pin would make a shaft, seal, or bearing change almost impossible.

-Nathan- said:
Simmer down boys. The spatter was removed after this picture. The cross pin and ring/pinion were coated with grease, so the spatter wouldn't stick. Cross pin can be taken out whenever I like. It is welded like that to create a spool. Welding just the corners of the gears, relies on the gears not breaking, the spider gears being the weak point of that 7.5. Hence everything gets welded and is a much stronger solid unit. Oh and for the record, the carrier was pre heated and allowed to cool slowly.

You're all good then :headbang:

In the photo you posted, had that been the finished product, removing the c-clips to get the shafts out would have been a real PITA.

-Nathan- · Apr 29, 2011

I know I'm all good, lol. This ain't my first rodeo. And for the record, when (not if) I blow this axle up, it will get swapped for for something MUCH larger...

colby450xc · Apr 29, 2011

bigblockford79 said:
I have only messed with 1 7.5" and a couple 8.8" rear axles, but both designs require the cross pin to be removed to allow the axle shafts to move in far enough for the clip to come off. So, not being able to remove the pin would make a shaft, seal, or bearing change almost impossible.

You're all good then In the photo you posted, had that been the finished product, removing the c-clips to get the shafts out would have been a real PITA.

When I changed bearings in my 8.8 I didnt have to remove the pin, just the c-clips. Removing and installing the bearings was a bitch.

4.0B2 · Apr 29, 2011

ok.. l/s is nice on a dd street truck...

but aussie's or lockrights are nice to add if you have an open carrier and the gears you want. hitting up a JY for a LSD explorer rear is always an option, i'd assume it'll fit your axle.

LS vs open diff

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