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Harmonic Balancer Marks - Actual TDC Confirmation


pjtoledo

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what's interesting is the image of the harmonic balancer in the second pic appears reversed. flip the balancer image and everything lines up. yes I know you can't flip the actual balancer, trigger wheel, collars etc.
 


98Ranger3L

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Set the #1 to Actual TDC for all these pics. Picture 1, assembled. Same layout as my original 2nd picture.

Removed harmonic balancer. Key intact and key ways were aligned fine. Picture 2.
With #1 at Actual TDC, crank key at 12:00.
This is correct right? (I'm not sure.)

Picture 3+4 are of the harmonic balancer. With keyway at 12:00, #1 Actual TDC lines up with timing mark (30° CCW of 12:00) and Balancer 0° mark is 30° CW from 12:00. 60° between the Actual #1 TDC and Balancer 0° mark.
Seems like all the balancers have this keyway, tone gap, Balancer 0° mark location so not sure what's wrong / how to correct the tone gap not lining up with CPS and Balancer 0° mark to aligned with Actual TDC. Seems like a new balancer will have exactly the alignment.

Can anyone confirm what's correct? What's incorrect? How to resolve the timing with the intent of resolving the P1309 code? Believe it's some balancer related timing issue and not CMPS timing. That's been set to every possible timing variation, including Actual +10° ATDC, with no code resolution.

Maybe all the balancer timing is correct and the P1309 cause is something else?

Thanks for any help
 

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98Ranger3L

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Anybody have any insight as to what looks correct / incorrect in this #1 TDC / crank keyway / harmonic balancer setup?
Have a P1309 code that will not clear no matter how I've timed the CMPS setting. +10° ATDC Actual and Balancer marking both won't resolve it. New OE syncro and balancer were installed.
If there is an issue with the balancer, I believe have all the same keyway / tone gap alignment so what can be different?
And if there is a balancer tone gap alignment issue, how can it run well and powerfully, with exception of the P1309 and poor mileage.

If anyone can confirm all items in the #1 TDC / crank keyway / balancer setup look correct, I'll assume these aspect are good and move the search to other areas, many of which have already been covered.

Thanks for any info.
 

pjtoledo

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I went out and looked at a 99 3.0 today. it was a running engine, and the timing marks don't sense. I'll try to get a pic up soon.

your timing marks show TDC at the gap in the teeth....my timing marks have about 35-40 at the gap. the engine ran good, albeit up side down.
 
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adsm08

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This one has me stumped.
 

pjtoledo

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2018-09-13 17.27.04.jpg
it is not at TDC, the keyway is at the red dot. under the sensor is about 30, zero is at TDC in red

2018-09-13 17.25.33.jpg

2018-09-13 17.26.01.jpg

2018-09-13 17.26.35.jpg
 
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98Ranger3L

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You and me both. Going to finally get way back in there and reconfirm the ground wire connection. Not sure if there's any chance that matters.
The breakout box to confirm voltages is about $300 used n haven't gone down that path. Believe confirming voltages are where they should be in next step.
 

98Ranger3L

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That crank shows the keyway 60° to the left of 12:00. Mine is at 12:00. A clear difference. The balancer gap and Actual TDC seem to be the same but my markings seem off.
Unsure how it's running, don't know the logic well enough to know it can compensate the ignition timing that far.
 

98Ranger3L

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And thanks for the pictures.
** I mis-read that your red marked pictures, actually it's not TDC aligned to timing mark. If it were, I believe our crank keyways would both be at 12:00.
I think where you marked the gap at 40°, is actually 50° BTDC. The gap on mine is also in the same place relative to my my actual TDC, but markings don't match, they're advanced 60°.
 

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I retract my 50 vs 40°, can sort of read it in the pic and looks like you were able to read it.
 

98Ranger3L

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My actual and marked TDC don't line up so not sure if we can assume the 99 3.0 is lined up. Do we know that's the original 99 balancer?

The 99 3.0 balancer has gap at marked 40°. Mine is at 50° actual / 10° marked ATDC. So still 10° different.

My exact balancer worked fine for a brief time on the old tired long block. But 99-my balancer differences are there when I believe they should be exact same part.

Want to sell a balancer? Ha. I haven't seen that version for sale or haven't seen they're not exactly like already I have.
 

pjtoledo

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My actual and marked TDC don't line up so not sure if we can assume the 99 3.0 is lined up. Do we know that's the original 99 balancer?

The 99 3.0 balancer has gap at marked 40°. Mine is at 50° actual / 10° marked ATDC. So still 10° different.

My exact balancer worked fine for a brief time on the old tired long block. But 99-my balancer differences are there when I believe they should be exact same part.

Want to sell a balancer? Ha. I haven't seen that version for sale or haven't seen they're not exactly like already I have.

it is not, I bought the truck 2 months ago and parted it. previous owner had replaced the engine.


Rockauto lists a Dayco PB1488N that shows the timing marks near the gap.

you will have to enlarge and squint to see then.


I haven't taken the balancer off yet, but it appears the trigger wheel is pressed on. perhaps you can remove and reinstall it correctly? most likely a heat/expand it to reinstall situation.

according to part lists, Taurus 3.0 from 96+ has the same balancer. may be easy to find in a yard.
 
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nobb

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Sorry to bump an old thread but I've got the dreaded P0340 camshaft sensor code that won't go away despite replacing the camshaft synchronizer, and the cam AND crankshaft sensors. This is with genuine Motorcraft parts too. I just want to make sure it's not an alignment issue.

I've been installing the camshaft synchronizer with the blue tool (came with an aftermarket Spectra synchronizer), which when installed, actually has the little camshaft synchronizer sensor flag offset a bit counter clockwise. When doing the alignment, I positioned the harmonic balancer such that the #6 tooth (counter-clock-wise from the gap) points to the crankshaft sensor and the #5 tooth points to the timing notch on the timing cover.

From reading this thread, I am getting the impression that I should re-do the alignment such that when I install the synchronizer with the positioner tool, that maybe I should position the balancer with the gap pointed at the crankshaft sensor and the 0 degree mark points to the timing cover mark?
 
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