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AC eventually stops working, also seemed to stall engine once


juntjoo

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It stalled the engine the other day. I'm assuming so because it wouldn't restart until I turned the AC off. Maybe there's no relationship. IDK. But otherwise the AC gradually loses usefulness. Hopefully it just needs a recharge. What do you guys think?
 


Denisefwd93

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I think it would be nice if you would provide a more information what size engine? have you recharged the system or did someone else work on it recently?

What is the outdoor temperature when you run it what is the temperature of the air coming out the vents when you run it?

does the little hose at the compressor get extremely hot and does the big hose get cold?

my first guess is, overcharged or the compressor about to seize.

if it is highly overcharged with refrigerant, and you have a smaller engine it could stall.
 

juntjoo

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I think it would be nice if you would provide a more information what size engine? have you recharged the system or did someone else work on it recently?

What is the outdoor temperature when you run it what is the temperature of the air coming out the vents when you run it?

does the little hose at the compressor get extremely hot and does the big hose get cold?

my first guess is, overcharged or the compressor about to seize.

if it is highly overcharged with refrigerant, and you have a smaller engine it could stall.
I have my model info under my avatar. B3000, so 3.0. I never recharged it. Have had the truck for a few months now. I run it when it is hot outside, and it produces cold air until it gradually stops working. Okay, so it could be over charged uh? Didn't know about that. I'll keep looking into it. Thanks
 

Denisefwd93

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Okay... Another question do you hear the compressor go on and off rapidly when you first start it up?

Think of it this way when you go to a doctor the first thing they do is have a discussion with you, next they check your heartbeat, blood pressure, etc.

We aren't there looking over your shoulder we aren't there looking over your shoulder so the more information you can provide the more help you can get online
 

juntjoo

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Okay... Another question do you hear the compressor go on and off rapidly when you first start it up?

Think of it this way when you go to a doctor the first thing they do is have a discussion with you, next they check your heartbeat, blood pressure, etc.

We aren't there looking over your shoulder we aren't there looking over your shoulder so the more information you can provide the more help you can get online
Well I can only tell you what I know to be relevant based on my preexisting knowledge, but good question! Yes, I happened to notice that the other day! What's that mean? Overcharge? This is all new to me. I'm dumb on diagnosis/in depth operation, I've only replaced a lot of stuff. You tell me I need a new compressor, tranny, cylinder head, I'll replace it. Thanks
 

Denisefwd93

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Basically I was born in the HVAC biz lol
Why I asked you the questions, I asked,

Many things could be causing you to lose cooling after it's been running.

Rapid on and off of the compressor is called short cycling. Add to that you said it stalled when the AC came on which could indicate the compressor needs a higher horsepower to rotate then normal; meaning it may just need some oil and a recharge. (or replacement)

The low pressure switch, also called the cycling switch on the large tube near or next to t he accumulator could also be bad.

Possible other causes could be a fan clutch, compressor clutch, blocked or dirty condenser coil,

Without refrigerant gauges you're at a disadvantage but it's probably best not to use them if you haven't before and don't have the experience (not saying that to hurt your feelings)

Doing the simple checks I mentioned are a real start in learning if the system is charged properly.

What I think you will find;

compressor going on and off rapidly.

the discharge line only warm not hot.

The large hose & evaporator tube coming out of the blower housing isn't cold either,

Please check those things with the AC on and idling about 12 to 1500 RPM blower on hi & max
 

juntjoo

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Basically I was born in the HVAC biz lol
Why I asked you the questions, I asked,

Many things could be causing you to lose cooling after it's been running.

Rapid on and off of the compressor is called short cycling. Add to that you said it stalled when the AC came on which could indicate the compressor needs a higher horsepower to rotate then normal; meaning it may just need some oil and a recharge. (or replacement)

The low pressure switch, also called the cycling switch on the large tube near or next to t he accumulator could also be bad.

Possible other causes could be a fan clutch, compressor clutch, blocked or dirty condenser coil,

Without refrigerant gauges you're at a disadvantage but it's probably best not to use them if you haven't before and don't have the experience (not saying that to hurt your feelings)

Doing the simple checks I mentioned are a real start in learning if the system is charged properly.

What I think you will find;

compressor going on and off rapidly.

the discharge line only warm not hot.

The large hose & evaporator tube coming out of the blower housing isn't cold either,

Please check those things with the AC on and idling about 12 to 1500 RPM blower on hi & max
Ah, lucky you, at least my opinion as having that part of automotive tech understood, as hvac operation is the most difficult thing for me to grasp with it dealing with substances and pressure and science 'and stuff'. I understand explosions and pistons and gears much easier. I want to understand though. And if the tools aren't too expensive I may try. What about the single gauge on the refrigerant cans you buy for recharging? Not at all what you're talking about right? Or just a small part.

Okay, I will check out those things you mentioned, read my manual and report back.
 

Denisefwd93

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I think it's a AC Pro type things are great with the gauge, however they are expensive.
 

juntjoo

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https://youtu.be/uDj27CYtwbI

If I missed something I'm in a little bit of a rush, but I will add to it later.


Okay, so that switch /line isn't hot. Just warm. And as shown it's short cycling. So how does one check the cleanliness of the Condenser coil? and are the fan clutch and compressor clutch the same thing? What about them exactly where you saying? And if that part is bad, then that is going to be a replacement of the entire compressor unit, correct? thanks a lot.

actually that discharge line is pretty hot. I mean, I can touch it for a while. But it's much hotter than initially tested. Also I'm testing it at 750 RPMs, not 1.5 K as I'm by myself. And that's what idles at. and just checking here again, it looks like one could replace just the clutch no? and sorry about the portrait view, LOL. That was not my intention. Okay and, and I checked again and that line isn't really that hot. I'm guessing it's supposed to be a lot hotter correct?
 
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Denisefwd93

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I would say at first glance you are just slightly low on refrigerant! the discharge hose to check for hot is right at the back connection of the compressor.

Fan clutch is behind the radiator behind the fan.

Compressor clutch is inside the pulley and on the shaft of the air conditioning compressor

Checking through the front grill you can usually find dead bugs leaves sometimes even grass clippings.

try running the engine at 2000 2500 RPMs see if the compressor cuts out at high RPMs.

at this time I would say not to worry about the "could be bad things"

when the engine is off ( you may have to loosen or take off the serpentine belt) see if the compressor turns by hand easily, that's the Triangular part inside the pulley on the front of the compressor.

When it is mild outdoor temperature two compressor should cycle on and off occasionally, when it's really warm outside compressor is not likely to go off at all.

Now aren't you happy? we figured this all out without any tools, my suggestion, take it in and have it checked for leaks and recharged it shouldn't need much, also ask about adding some oil to the system.

We replaced everything online except the compressor on mine it's a 94 4.0

 

07nhbpsi

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I think it's a AC Pro type things are great with the gauge, however they are expensive.
Wow, I figured u would’ve said the exact opposite....:popcorn: I know I feel that way about that crap, manifold gauges all the way! :icon_thumby: I personally would say to befriend someone familiar with Auto A/c to show u the ropes, however this is only my opinion.:popcorn:
 

Denisefwd93

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Here's another surprise for you. :) I don't encourage people to use high side gauge or a check the high side unless there's really an underlying reason for it.

Really, the DIYer generally doesn't know or care what they're looking at when they have guages. Even less DIYers know anything about corresponding pressure temperature, but most are going to find a way to do it. AC Pro found its niche. They even have a great website to walk people through it.

One of my personal favorites
http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/yellow-jacket/test-and-charging-manifolds/4-valve/with-hoses/titan-manifold-with-60-inch-3-8-x-45-degree-compact-ball-valve-fahrenheit-49968.htm?ref=gbase&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3KzdBRDWARIsAIJ8TMTHlYd_PM5NAe1XpdmHmlqBiye58hJaiLa-s4sP6dRfv_3u-ofoMvYaAjedEALw_wcB
but there's about 7 sets of gauges in my shed and I'm retired so it's not likely I need another set of gauges
Of course the knowledge is easy to find and learn with just a little bit of reading or youtubing

In the professional Arena Most garage mechanics & Automotive HVAC people, actually have enough knowledge to work on just about any HVAC or refrigeration system but many shy away from it. just like I've stayed away from automotive HVAC Systems most of my life,



Wow, I figured u would’ve said the exact opposite....:popcorn: I know I feel that way about that crap, manifold gauges all the way! :icon_thumby: I personally would say to befriend someone familiar with Auto A/c to show u the ropes, however this is only my opinion.:popcorn:
 
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juntjoo

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Thanks Denise ! I'll be back in the spring lol, when it's more financially sensible to deal with as it's only getting colder at the moment and it's working good enough. Quick question though: so since it did apparently stall the engine that could still be due to lack of refrigerant(requiring possibly only a recharge)? Currently at the cooler(than earlier when I created thread) it's doing fine.
 

Denisefwd93

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Pretty hard to guess at this point. possibly when a compressor sits for a long period of time it may need more hp to start turning.
 

juntjoo

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Did I read somewhere this system has a circuit breaker /thingies to turn it off when you're going WOT or close to make it easier when accelerating? If so that's great. I have an old 92' eclipse that used to lag bad when I used ac and I'd wanted to rig a switch into the ac circuit that would connect to the throttle to turn it off at a certain point of depression. Never did it but was excited to experiment.

Anyway, so does this truck have such a mechanism and if so is there any way to adjust it, stock or otherwise? I haven't been stalling out as I mentioned I'd once before but I have to go easy on the throttle at lower speeds with ac on. Id like to induce AC cutoff somehow at like 30%+ throttle. That would be awesome to be able to control. In fact every vehicle should have a few settings. Like 30+/50+/70+ percent. No? I have never had a car newer than a decade so maybe you guys are laughing at me and all cars have this today. Anyway...
 

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