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Impossible shackle bolts!


Denisefwd93

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Now that the drive shaft issue is settled in my truck I have a broken Spring Mount to deal with.

As we were talking about the agony of the feat, wondering, anything wrong with using a Sawzall or cut off wheel on either side of the bushing and just cutting the bolt? The bushing still has to be popped out so I don't think it would matter?

all input appreciated thank you!
 


AdirondackRanger

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I cut mine off and punched the bolt out with a ball joint clamp. First using an old socket to start the bolt out and then finishing with another bolt.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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I've removed a rusted in bolt by cutting of the head and then stacking washers under the nut and tighten with an impact. Add more washers and repeat as necessary. It actually works pretty quick.
 

Denisefwd93

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Except this bolt probably isn't going to break loose and the whole bushing and bolt will have to be driven burned or sawn out.

I like the threaded rod and sockets method. But on the other hand the shop I take the truck to has all kinds of fancy tools like that.
 

BlackBII

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I had this happen on my Ranger when I first got it.

I was able to get the nut off and then push the bolt out with a ball joint press, the c clamp type.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Except this bolt probably isn't going to break loose and the whole bushing and bolt will have to be driven burned or sawn out.

I like the threaded rod and sockets method. But on the other hand the shop I take the truck to has all kinds of fancy tools like that.
I think you misunderstood me. The washers prevent the steel bushing from moving. You are using the original bolt with the extra washers and the original nut to pull the original bolt out. No threaded rod. Use 1 or 2 grade 8 washers and the rest just normal. Use a cut-off wheel [carefully - they like to explode with any side pressure] to cut off the bolt head. The only way this doesn't work is if the nut is facing the frame, in which case there may not be enough room to get it all the way out. But even if half way you can then finish off with blackbIIs method.
 

Denisefwd93

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I understood [emoji6] last night the nut would not turn even with a 2-foot breaker bar and pipe, it is toward the frame but that doesn't matter because the whole spring mount is rotten and when we work on it or have it done, the spring would have to drop below the frame anyhow. Not about to use a torch when I can smell gas in the area we would be using it.

The list of stuff this truck needs just goes on and on, omg

Thank you!
 
Last edited:

Denisefwd93

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stock, may get leveling springs in front "somday"
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bobbywalter

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sawzall?
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hack the fawkers off and replace with new.

25 bux new bolts shackle and bushings.
 

Denisefwd93

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stock, may get leveling springs in front "somday"
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hack the fawkers off and replace with new.

25 bux new bolts shackle and bushings.
I just placed an order @ RockAuto, shock absorbers too.
 
Last edited:

bobbywalter

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sawzall?
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33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
i put a link in your other thread...


best thing you ca do is buy all new shit and when you have everything ready...do it all.


easy to do when you just cut and run.


if your in a bind on the road and needed to do something thats different.
 

Head413

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Yeah I just did all this this summer, replaced all four leaf spring mounts, new bolts bushings and some bilsteins.

Ultimately had to cut most of the bolts out. Just do it.


Now my steering wheel is cocked since the rear end tracks correctly!
 

Denisefwd93

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Ford
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4.0
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Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
stock, may get leveling springs in front "somday"
Tire Size
235
Getting closer.... the add a leafs arrived the other day, got the bushing mount and bolts. but... it looks like rain LOL (really) New shocks made a wonderful difference!
 

Denisefwd93

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Ford
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4.0
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Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
stock, may get leveling springs in front "somday"
Tire Size
235
Didn't take pictures during the flurry of activity today, but the new spring perch is in place! OMG hard work!
 
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