Official A4LD Problem Thread!

Robert_1967 · May 20, 2013

Answer069 said:
So how hard is it to swap to a M5OD? I have a slowly failing A4LD. Currently having huge issues with a Delayed reverse shift and an almost nonexistent OD shift. When I'm driving fast enough for it to shift into OD I have to use the gear selector and move it to N, let off the gas, then back into OD and I can pick up the gas and most of the time it will shift in. Sometimes not though.

Just follow the post in the technical forums, the hardest part is getting all the parts, also unless you find a ecu from a 5 speed with your engine size, your check engine light will come one and stay on.

I have most of the parts that I have been collecting for over 6 months now, I plan on changing my 89 BII from a auto to manual.

Robert

1990Ranger4.0 · Jul 15, 2013

Well, just like many before me, I've joined because of a very similar problem that others have spoken of here.

My family has owned a trusty 1990 4.0L 4x2 that we've used mostly as a utility vehicle. The ODO has turned over, but I think it has about 108K miles. Anyway, my Dad and sister had a load of furniture and stuff they were transporting about 200 miles. About 180 miles into the trip (from what I've been told), they started seeing smoke and pulled off the road. They didn't find anything major, so they resumed after the smoke subsided, hoping to make the last few miles. Eventually, the smoke resumed, so they pulled off and got towed home.

From what they told me, the truck was overheating as the smoke got worse. When they finally called it quits on the second pull-over, they could see a noticeable trail of trans fluid, which I assume is the so-called "puking" of the fluid at high temps. They also indicated that the A/C capability was diminished when it was smoking, etc.

So, the truck has been sitting at my sister's house for a week now. My parents just sold their land and have no major use for the truck anymore. My Dad called me yesterday and said he's done with the truck and I could have it if I wanted to try to fix it, or he's going to sell it for parts and get rid of it ASAP.

I'm not the most mechanically-inclined person, but I've had a ton of fun working on my 4Runner, so I had to take him up on the offer to try to fix the Ranger. This thing has been an awesome truck for us -- I couldn't just see it go for a few hundred bucks for scrap when I could possibly get it up and running for the same.

After reading this entire thread (yes, all 26 pages) and seeing that others have had almost the exact same thing happen, my guess would be that it's either:

1. the front pump seal
2. the torque converter
3. the bellhousing bolts

Does this seem correct to others here?

I'm going to refill it with fluid and see what she does. If it continues to leak/puke after I refill it, I guess I'll get it towed to a shop and see what their diagnosis is and what the damage would be to fix it.

I've pretty much learned everything I know about cars from working on my 1998 4Runner, which I recently put a new engine in. I've rebuilt a 4L60E with a buddy of mine, so I'm sure I could probably rebuild this thing, but I'm trying to move in the next couple of weeks and I really don't have the time or space to tear apart the A4LD right now.

Anyway, any suggestions or comments are welcome, and I'll update when I have some results.

BTW, Robert_1967, I enjoyed reading your fake signature lines throughout this whole thread. Some are pretty hilarious.

Robert_1967 · Jul 15, 2013

1990Ranger4.0 said:
Well, just like many before me, I've joined because of a very similar problem that others have spoken of here.

My family has owned a trusty 1990 4.0L 4x2 that we've used mostly as a utility vehicle. The ODO has turned over, but I think it has about 108K miles. Anyway, my Dad and sister had a load of furniture and stuff they were transporting about 200 miles. About 180 miles into the trip (from what I've been told), they started seeing smoke and pulled off the road. They didn't find anything major, so they resumed after the smoke subsided, hoping to make the last few miles. Eventually, the smoke resumed, so they pulled off and got towed home.

From what they told me, the truck was overheating as the smoke got worse. When they finally called it quits on the second pull-over, they could see a noticeable trail of trans fluid, which I assume is the so-called "puking" of the fluid at high temps. They also indicated that the A/C capability was diminished when it was smoking, etc.

So, the truck has been sitting at my sister's house for a week now. My parents just sold their land and have no major use for the truck anymore. My Dad called me yesterday and said he's done with the truck and I could have it if I wanted to try to fix it, or he's going to sell it for parts and get rid of it ASAP.

I'm not the most mechanically-inclined person, but I've had a ton of fun working on my 4Runner, so I had to take him up on the offer to try to fix the Ranger. This thing has been an awesome truck for us -- I couldn't just see it go for a few hundred bucks for scrap when I could possibly get it up and running for the same.

After reading this entire thread (yes, all 26 pages) and seeing that others have had almost the exact same thing happen, my guess would be that it's either:

1. the front pump seal
2. the torque converter
3. the bellhousing bolts

Does this seem correct to others here?

I'm going to refill it with fluid and see what she does. If it continues to leak/puke after I refill it, I guess I'll get it towed to a shop and see what their diagnosis is and what the damage would be to fix it.

I've pretty much learned everything I know about cars from working on my 1998 4Runner, which I recently put a new engine in. I've rebuilt a 4L60E with a buddy of mine, so I'm sure I could probably rebuild this thing, but I'm trying to move in the next couple of weeks and I really don't have the time or space to tear apart the A4LD right now.

Anyway, any suggestions or comments are welcome, and I'll update when I have some results.

BTW, Robert_1967, I enjoyed reading your fake signature lines throughout this whole thread. Some are pretty hilarious.

Thank you.

if the trans fluid pours out when you refill it, then it is the front seal, just knock it back in, BUT, I would replace the fluid, also when ever you have it loaded, run in drive, not over drive.

Robert

sent with a piece of paper covered in trans fluid, and a bottle of Advil.

1990Ranger4.0 · Jul 16, 2013

Robert_1967 said:
Thank you.

if the trans fluid pours out when you refill it, then it is the front seal, just knock it back in, BUT, I would replace the fluid, also when ever you have it loaded, run in drive, not over drive.

Robert

sent with a piece of paper covered in trans fluid, and a bottle of Advil.

So, I put about 4 quarts in it last night, and no leaks as far as I could tell. I drove it around and let it run for about 20 minutes and saw no noticeable leaks. There may be a small leak just yet, because I can still intermittently smell burning fluid on the exhaust pipe, but I'm not sure if that was the old stuff burning off still or if any new stuff leaked.

I drove the truck about 20 miles this morning into work and all was fine. I'm going to go get some brake cleaner and clean up the underside real well today and see if I can determine for sure whether or not the front seal is leaking.

I'm thinking if she continues to run well like she has and the trans doesn't act up anymore, that I'll install a trans cooler and hopefully that will prevent any future similar occurrences. I found out that my Dad and sister had a golf cart in the back of the truck during that 200 mile trip, so the truck was definitely under load and I imagine the trans. fluid was boiling. Hopefully she'll run well and I can start working on the cosmetic issues and more fun stuff!

Many thanks to those before me that posted their experiences here. It was very helpful to have the problem narrowed down and potential solutions in mind prior to starting work on my truck.

Robert, thank you for the tip about being in D instead of Overdrive. If you feel like it, I'd love to hear a brief explanation as to why this makes a difference in terms of stress/heat on the trans.

Tedybear · Jul 16, 2013

Sidebar note:

Front seal on an A4LD. The seal needs to be "Staked" into place as well as knocked in. The housing flexes a bit and metal expands and contracts where it mounts. Failing to correctly 'stake' it in place? It will work it's way back out. That's why you'll see 4 indent marks at every 90 degrees, they make a tool that does it.

Failing to have that tool? Hammer and chisel will work nicely. It only takes one hit to stake it. Any more then that? And the housing will get deformed. (Suggest offsetting the new stake marks 45degs out of phase with the factory ones. eg: aim for the middle of the two factory marks)

S-

R.E.C.enthusiast · Jul 17, 2013

Front center shaft won't spin

Okay so we took the transmission out of the 86 ford Aerostar with a 2.8l 2 wheel drive to replace the front shaft seal. Thought we had to take the bell housing off for some reason but when I got to the parts store they said I can just pull the seal and replace it. Cool. Wel I tried to call my buddy but it was too late. Well we get back try to remount the bell housing and now the center shaft won't spin at all when we bolt the bell housing snug not even to the point of torque yet. Is this normal or or am I doing something wrong. It spins okay when not tightened but does not spin when tightened. Does this need to be done whith the transmission on is ass or?

Robert_1967 · Jul 17, 2013

1990Ranger4.0 said:
Robert, thank you for the tip about being in D instead of Overdrive. If you feel like it, I'd love to hear a brief explanation as to why this makes a difference in terms of stress/heat on the trans.

It's a lower gear, and less stress on the drive system, it keeps the rpms up and the trans fluid moving, also think of the strain on a manual when you try to start in second, or miss every other gear to high gear, also you would never drive a 5 speed in 5th gear at 35 mph, to much strain, so when your pulling ot hauling stuff, don't use overdrive, it also says that in the Ranger/BroncoII manual, and the Explorer manuals.

Robert

sent with a drew drop, and milky way.

1990Ranger4.0 · Jul 17, 2013

Robert_1967 said:
It's a lower gear, and less stress on the drive system, it keeps the rpms up and the trans fluid moving, also think of the strain on a manual when you try to start in second, or miss every other gear to high gear, also you would never drive a 5 speed in 5th gear at 35 mph, to much strain, so when your pulling ot hauling stuff, don't use overdrive, it also says that in the Ranger/BroncoII manual, and the Explorer manuals.

Robert

sent with a drew drop, and milky way.

Okay, yeah, makes sense. I will definitely take that into account, if I ever load it up again.

I drove it to work and back yesterday, about 25 miles each way, and didn't have any noticeable issues. I also couldn't detect much of a leak either. At this point, I think I may be one of the lucky few that had the transmission puking issue and was able to just refill it and call it a day.

My suspicion is that the truck was just way overloaded when hauling a golf cart, and I'm sure it was in overdrive the entire way, if that made any difference. Hopefully it will continue to perform well because I'm hoping to get one more move out of it in the next couple weeks.

Thanks for the information!

Do you just put whatever pops into your head for your signature line, or is there some method to the madness?

jhammel85 · Jul 24, 2013

So i've got the dreaded "no shift to second when cold" problem. I've never changed the fluid but it's been topped off here and there over the years. The trans is full of fluid, so the level shouldn't be a problem, even if it is a royal PITA to read the dipstick!

It's a sudden problem that popped up out of no where. When it's cold, it won't pop into second unless I've got it up to at least 3500. I suspect a governor problem or maybe a simple fluid / filter change. I've got to be honest though..A fluid change on something this old with 177k on it worries me but what else can I do here?

help?

BrianNaille · Aug 6, 2013

A4LD won't engage at all

Hi,
93 Ford Ranger with A4LD, 160k miles. Need advice. I'm relatively mechanically inclined but not up to switching out and rebuilding trannies.

- Transmission running fine last few months, however occasionally needed some fluid (could always tell because it would hard shift into drive)
- Recently noticed what appeared to be white smoke in the exhaust
- Couple of weeks ago, everything was driving fine, but still seeing some of the smoke. Suddenly, it started missing.
- Tried to add some fluid and it coughed some of it back up (checked later for a leak and could not find one)
- Within an hour it wouldn't engage at all (in drive or reverse)
- Per suggestions, I changed the vac mod valve. The vac line had fluid in it, so I suspect it was bad and also cause of fluid loss and fluid burn (white smoke)
- However, trans will still not engage. Fluid looked pretty dark and probably hasn't been changed in awhile - should this be my next step?
- My vac mod valve does not have the adjustment wheel on it but I think it has a small set screw (maybe allen screw?) - does it need adjustment?
- Could driving the truck a few miles after it started slipping have fried the transmission (after all, it's at 160k anyway)?

Any thoughts/questions would be appreciated. Thanks!
Brian

Shran · Aug 6, 2013

BrianNaille said:
Hi,
93 Ford Ranger with A4LD, 160k miles. Need advice. I'm relatively mechanically inclined but not up to switching out and rebuilding trannies.

- Transmission running fine last few months, however occasionally needed some fluid (could always tell because it would hard shift into drive)
- Recently noticed what appeared to be white smoke in the exhaust
- Couple of weeks ago, everything was driving fine, but still seeing some of the smoke. Suddenly, it started missing.
- Tried to add some fluid and it coughed some of it back up (checked later for a leak and could not find one)
- Within an hour it wouldn't engage at all (in drive or reverse)
- Per suggestions, I changed the vac mod valve. The vac line had fluid in it, so I suspect it was bad and also cause of fluid loss and fluid burn (white smoke)
- However, trans will still not engage. Fluid looked pretty dark and probably hasn't been changed in awhile - should this be my next step?
- My vac mod valve does not have the adjustment wheel on it but I think it has a small set screw (maybe allen screw?) - does it need adjustment?
- Could driving the truck a few miles after it started slipping have fried the transmission (after all, it's at 160k anyway)?

Any thoughts/questions would be appreciated. Thanks!
Brian

I wouldn't waste time with a fluid change, I'd be looking at rebuilding it instead. The "missing" you describe was likely something coming apart inside the trans. 160k is a lot for an A4LD, consider yourself lucky for getting that much out of it. Many have failed before 100k, although poor maintenance and heat contributed to a lot of those.

Robert_1967 · Aug 6, 2013

BrianNaille said:
Hi,
93 Ford Ranger with A4LD, 160k miles. Need advice. I'm relatively mechanically inclined but not up to switching out and rebuilding trannies.

- Transmission running fine last few months, however occasionally needed some fluid (could always tell because it would hard shift into drive)
- Recently noticed what appeared to be white smoke in the exhaust
- Couple of weeks ago, everything was driving fine, but still seeing some of the smoke. Suddenly, it started missing.
- Tried to add some fluid and it coughed some of it back up (checked later for a leak and could not find one)
- Within an hour it wouldn't engage at all (in drive or reverse)
- Per suggestions, I changed the vac mod valve. The vac line had fluid in it, so I suspect it was bad and also cause of fluid loss and fluid burn (white smoke)
- However, trans will still not engage. Fluid looked pretty dark and probably hasn't been changed in awhile - should this be my next step?
- My vac mod valve does not have the adjustment wheel on it but I think it has a small set screw (maybe allen screw?) - does it need adjustment?
- Could driving the truck a few miles after it started slipping have fried the transmission (after all, it's at 160k anyway)?

Any thoughts/questions would be appreciated. Thanks!
Brian

for one, there is now way transfluid can get from the trans to the exhaust, so that is a engine problem, that is also why your engine is missing, engine problem.

you really messed up your trans when you OVER FILLED IT, that is why it was coughing it up, sound like you really blew out the new mod vac if there is transfluid in it, of course that could let trans fluid in the intake, and make white smoke, but you should have never overfilled the trans.

with 160k miles, I would drop the pan, and change the filter and fluid, just be sure not to over fill it again.

time to hit up Pull-A-Parts, and get a another trans for around 100.00.

Robert

posted with a bad picture and a rusty microphone.

BrianNaille · Aug 7, 2013

Robert_1967 said:
for one, there is now way transfluid can get from the trans to the exhaust, so that is a engine problem, that is also why your engine is missing, engine problem.

you really messed up your trans when you OVER FILLED IT, that is why it was coughing it up, sound like you really blew out the new mod vac if there is transfluid in it, of course that could let trans fluid in the intake, and make white smoke, but you should have never overfilled the trans.

with 160k miles, I would drop the pan, and change the filter and fluid, just be sure not to over fill it again.

time to hit up Pull-A-Parts, and get a another trans for around 100.00.

Robert

posted with a bad picture and a rusty microphone.

OK, thanks. Just to be clear about the order of events - the new vac mod did not have fluid in the line. That was the old one, hence the white smoke. And, the engine wasn't missing. Rather, the trans was engaging and disengaging at the end (it was as if I was pressing a clutch pedal), the engine was revving just fine. And yes, I probably did over fill it.

So, the question is, did I kill the transmission in a matter of 10 miles (or less) because until the problems started happening it was fine. I suspect that the mod vac had been going for awhile because I was seeing white smoke for awhile. But, after all of this happened I went from all to nothing - it won't engage at all now. So, I'm trying to figure out if something happened after the old vac mod blew out that would have killed the trans permanently.

DOPIESLC · Oct 14, 2013

Ok I will throw my issue out there. So I was driving along at 55mph and heard three rubbing sounds quickly from the trans and then it felt like it went into neutral. I had no forward or reverse gears but had park. But it into any gear and it would just roll backwards like in neutral. Got out and heard some grinding coming from the bellhousing and fluid pouring out of the front. What is werid is I believe its a 4r44e auto and not the a4ld which says is in my b2. I don't have the vaccum actuator on the rear just the 2 adjustments :icon_confused:

. Any help would be great.

sledneck07 · Jan 14, 2014

Anybody have a fix for the no shift out of second when cold or we just gonna keep avoiding it?

Sent from my SCH-R830 using Tapatalk

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