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2000 Ranger hub/tcase conversion


danschabb

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hey fellas (and ladies?)

I recently bought a 2000 ranger and there's a grinding/scraping sound coming from the front axle area at 40 MPH and above. the truck drives well and the sound is not effected when i shift gears. I'm guessing its coming from the t-case or the axle/hub somewhere...i can't really get under the car at 40 mph to find out. i don't have manual hubs, and i don't have auto-lockers. seems to be just straight shafts (independant suspension, not straight literally). anyway, my questions are:

what should i do as far as manual hubs. will the avm's work with the straight shafts?
how tough is it to find a manual t-case for this truck? electronic shift is kinda cheesy.

thanks
 


wvcat

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The AVMs won't work with the live axle shafts you have, you would have to convert to the pulse vacumn hub axles. The best place for an manual transfer case is the older style explorers.
 

4x4RangerGuy

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The AVMs won't work with the live axle shafts you have, you would have to convert to the pulse vacumn hub axles. The best place for an manual transfer case is the older style explorers.
Not so fast.

Ford used the PVH setup until about July of 2000. So, he needs to determine the production date of his Ranger. Even easier, pop off the hub caps from the front wheels; if you see a big nut retaining the axle end, then you have the fulltime setup. If you see a black hublock then you have the vacuum system.

If you have the fulltime setup, there is no manual locking hub option. If you have the vacuum setup, then yes you can go with AVM manual locking hubs.

For the transfer case, you should look for the Borg-Warner 1354 manual transfer case. It is somewhat rare, but they do exist. Most Rangers came with the 1354 electric shift transfer case.
 

danschabb

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"If you have the fulltime setup, there is no manual locking hub option. If you have the vacuum setup, then yes you can go with AVM manual locking hubs."

I have the fulltime setup, what's it gonna take to put manual hubs on? seems like i could get away with just a different set of shafts and maybe knuckles. there's gotta be a way.
 

wvcat

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Knuckels are only different for the vacumn to the PVH's so you can reuse your but you will need the axles and bearings, and of course the hubs.
 

danschabb

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thanks fellas
 

4x4RangerGuy

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Keep the fulltime setup. It's not worth swapping everything over. The wheel bearings aren't as strong, you have to make sure all the seals are perfect, etc. Not worth the swap. Your front end constantly spinning decreases your mileage by a negligible amount and is much more reliable.
 

Earl43P

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Hub bearing?

Does the sound change when you steer in one direction?

If it lessens turning left, suspect RF hub bearing.

I'd also suggest a fluid change in the front differential (use synthetic). PO may have neglected maintenance. Look for evidence of leakage.

I'd jackstand the whole truck by the suspension, not the frame, engage 4Hi, run it up to about 60 mph (assistant), switch back to 2wd, turn off the engine in neutral and listen while it coasts down. Turn the steering wheel while you are at it (try several runs jackstanded).
 

danschabb

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the fulltime setup is really that much better? seems to me like spinning the shafts all the way back to the tcase all the time must wear stuff pretty bad. i guess it's designed for that though.

I really don't think it's in the hubs. i've had it (legally) for about a week now so i haven't really done much but it doesn't change with steering and it sounds more hollow than a bearing would. quite possible there's no fluid in the t case or the front diff. haven't checked it out. it also drags to the right even though i just did the balljoints and had an alignment. the sound creeps me out pretty bad. the only difference i noticed is that it's very, very slightly louder with the stick in 5th. but that could just be the acoustics of the cab.

what are the chances of having a non-worthless 4x4 system if this thing's been run dry for a while. any ideas as to why it wouldn't want to shift to 4 sometimes but not others?
 

4x4RangerGuy

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The fulltime setup is just fine. Chevy has been using it since around 87 on their fullsize trucks and SUVs. It's a proven system.

Check all your fluids and maybe you'll find you're low on something. Especially the transmission. The 5 speed M5ODs like to leak out of the rubber shift fork plugs. Regular maintenance is needed.
 

DaveThePear

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I have a 2000 Off Road, born in April '00. It's a full timer, I was mildly disappointed. More maintenance, spinning things that don't need to be spun much. Bright side... can't think of one.
 

Earl43P

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Change your thinking!

Unit hub bearings are expensive, but reliable and long wear.
No PVH, just shift the transfer case, you are in 4wd.

No greasing, unless you are like me. I pull the ABS sensors out of the knuckle and pump them full of new grease every once in a while. Rotate the hubs while you pump. Messy but effective. I just took the head off the grease gun and went to town, splooging grease - but it gets in there.

It's also WAY easy if you ever need a new CV axle.



See the hole?
 

Rulebreaker

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Change your thinking!

Unit hub bearings are expensive, but reliable and long wear.
No PVH, just shift the transfer case, you are in 4wd.

No greasing, unless you are like me. I pull the ABS sensors out of the knuckle and pump them full of new grease every once in a while. Rotate the hubs while you pump. Messy but effective. I just took the head off the grease gun and went to town, splooging grease - but it gets in there.

It's also WAY easy if you ever need a new CV axle.



See the hole?
I just did this to mine, but I fear too late as there was no grease in them as the first sign of grease around the outer seal was the new grease. Wish I would have done it a year ago when I did a brake job. I also noticed my outer boots are weather checked so I think it's time for unit bearings and boots. RB
 

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