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changing key ignition switch 1983


Angie

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Never attempted this before so reaching out for any help.

Old ignition key switch is done... can turn it over without a key in the slot. I have purchased a new key tumbler but completely lost on how to remove the old one and place in the new key set.

if anyone can direct me to the proper youtube section that has the procedure that will be correct for the swap. will be great, or if you have a set of directions or web page for help?

thanks
 


RonD

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There is a pin with a spring that holds key cylinder in place(you should see it on your new cylinder), you have to put key in, even though its not needed in your lock, and turn it to RUN position.
Then push in the Pin and cylinder will pull out, hopefully :)

Problem is accessing that pin on some older years

In 1983 I think you need to pull the steering wheel off :(
Unhook battery first

Short video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=An9WenDzoW0

In later years they had a hole on underside of steering column that could be used to push in the Pin
 
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Angie

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4.0L 302
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Thanks Ron,

i will attempt this soon. luckily the wheel and guts are still exposed, but at that stage to put on the custom wheel, horn and tighten up the steering column.

I found this old tread that helped also. i will be looking to see if the slider parts aren't broken as well. for this is also kinda the same thing going on.

cheers

https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64081
 

Angie

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4.0L 302
Transmission
Automatic
can't wait till this is together and with the stained wooden wheel should look nice when finished.
 

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RonD

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Should be nice, interesting gauge set up :)

Newer actuator arms are plastic, so broke more often, and these are usually part of the Locking steering wheel mechanism so with custom wheel you may need to modify it
 

Angie

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thanks for the compliment on the gauge set up. took a couple weekends to figure out what to do there a couple years back.

the wheel has a kit that angie had to get separate for the ford. i want to wire the horn in as a (-) ground wire to activate the horn. shouldn't be any troubles there right?

can you explain a bit more what you mean about what could break on the arms? I can't remember if the steering wheel locked back when it was on the road. (been a few years now) but seeing the light for this truck being finished this winter/spring... (i hope)

cheers
 

RonD

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When you turn the cylinder now, with key, it should feel smooth not sticking, if so actuator is most likely fine
When you turn the key back to OFF you should see a rod come up to Lock into the back side of stock Steering wheel, it was often spring loaded so didn't "lock" if slot on steering wheel wasn't lined up, but turning wheel either way would cause it to lock and spring pushed it into place

If not then it didn't have locking steering wheel or it is broken off

This drawing shows what should be inside there: http://image.mustangandfords.com/f/31264684+w620+re0/mump_1012_03_+ford_mustang_locking_steering_columns+locking_steering_column_diagram.jpg

The key cylinder turns a gear
That gear moves the actuator rod(outlined inside steering column)
Actuator rod slides ignition switch at base of steering column into its 4 positions, ACC, OFF, RUN, START

Also seen inside the column on actuator, on top of it, is the steering lock pin
When cylinder is turned to OFF or ACC that pin should come up to lock steering wheel

Drawing is for Mustang column, couldn't find one specific to Rangers
 

Angie

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ok, thanks for that ron. i understand better now. it is smooth, and all seems to be working great with it.

ok, i really have an issue with this steering column. never realized that 83 rangers have the horn as a push on the turn signal rod (positive?) ... i was in there wiring in the horn to work when it is grounded. made a great bushing out of plastic and made plastic washers to make sure the horn doesn't touch any metal. only to see that the horn hits from the push and not from the steering wheel.

question... can i rip apart a newer ranger ... 90's or so to butcher the spin cylinder to make a grounding ring that will spin? or anyone know what car(s) i can butcher that will work for what i need?

thanks....
 

Angie

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what colour wire is the horn wire that is connected to the horn switch? i can just rewire what is there to ground if i can't get a spinner to work.

thanks
 

RonD

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Not a clue as to horn wire color in 1983?

You need a Clockspring wiring harness to use any buttons on the steering wheel, it allows steering wheel to turn from lock to lock and stay connected.

Not sure if 1983 used 12v or a Ground at the steering column to operate the horn
Later models did use a Ground but with a Horn Relay, so the steering wheel button grounded the relay activating the horn.

You could set up something similar but would still need a clockspring wire behind steering wheel as relays ground
 

Angie

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4.0L 302
Transmission
Automatic
damn Ron, you are a wealth of information... "Clockspring wiring harness" never heard of this before... after fast search i see what i need to "mcgyver" into place to make it all work.

thanks will be attacking the wreckers soon enough to see what i can scavenge.
 

RonD

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Since you just need the horn google: custom steering wheel horn buttons

Might be a easier solution
 

Angie

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4.0L 302
Transmission
Automatic
Thought about this over weekend and was able to come up with a solution. took apart an old glass tube style fuse holder and the size was a perfect fit into the "hubs" pass through hole. attached spade end on it, made another wire spade end to 1 of the 3 bolts that secure the spacer and hub. this will give the ground to the push button from the steering shaft. placed a brass bolt into the fuse holder and the spring from the holder will apply enough pressure to the bolt. the bolt will be hitting a circles metal plate i will be cutting over the week, then mounting it to thickened plexiglass backing i will build. this baking plate will be bolted to the guts of the turn signal holders. there is an area already there to work with. will rivet the plate to the plexi and strong glue the works. will need to weld another male spade plug to the metal to complete the circuit and that wire will go out to ground at the horn.

pic gives an idea what i am up to.

cheers
 

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Angie

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V8 Engine Swap
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Messages
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Location
Vancouver area BC Canada
Vehicle Year
92 & 83 project
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
4.0L 302
Transmission
Automatic
in case any one gets into this spot.... metal can't touch the main shaft, so i took plexi plates i have around and made these collars. and the pin for the spade is from the steering wheel of a 88 parts truck i have. i soldered it to a cut saw blade that i had laying around. used a plasma to cut a circle. then megga soldered it to it. the brass bolt head that is pushed in is in an old style glass fuse holder.the spring in the holder will keep constant pressure on the saw blade as it spins around. these plexi spacers measured out to an inch and are bolted solid to the guts of the innards from the column switches. a litte bit of doing with dremmel, files, grinding wheel and drill press today. but got it figured out and will work. i will put some electric contact grease on the head of the brass screw when i bolt it fully together to give it some slide.

after searching around the net i found that painless made a remote push button switch for aftermarket steering wheels... but i think they are now discontinued. dang... would have saved some grinding dust today.

oh well.

cheers
 

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