1st gen beam swap - urethane bushings?

Has anyone here ever used urethane bushings on their 2wd front i-beams? I'm gather parts to swap 95-97 2wd front beams in to my 87 single cab V8 swap truck. In order to gain the braking upgrade..

Hopefully all these new parts will also help with the highway twitchy-ness my truck has. Toe is set perfectly. I'm thinking it needs more caster. It only has dr. +2.1 - pass. +2.4 degrees of caster right now which seems to be too little caster according to the specs I'm finding on here. The camber is only off on the passenger side which reads +1 degree camber, but it does pull rather hard to the right. All bushings underneath look pretty new and I think the P.O. replaced all of them, but I'm doing the beam swap so I might as well put all new poly bushings in there...

I'm looking at these bushings, and I assume I'll have to re-use the pressed-in metal cup the bushings ride in, or try to source new ones??

https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/4.3119



I also assume these will work for the radius arm bushings?

https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/4.7110
Along with new heatshield cups: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=203606&cc=1138104&jsn=507


Although I was curious about these. I'm not sure how they're used exactly.. I've never seen anything like them. They appear to raise or lower the rear end of the radius arms by twisting the bushings somehow? https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-k8746



So... Any thoughts or experiences are appreciated.



GB

Just found this poly kit and it's priced pretty fairly I'd say: https://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/ford-ranger-front-end-bushing-rebuild-kit-2wd-1983-1997-p




GB

Bird76Mojo said:

Has anyone here ever used urethane bushings on their 2wd front i-beams? I'm gather parts to swap 95-97 2wd front beams in to my 87 single cab V8 swap truck. In order to gain the braking upgrade..

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Yes & No. Installed all poly bushings on the 86 Ranger, but it has DJM dream beams that use a different pivot bushing, and the body never even made it back onto the frame.

Bird76Mojo said:

Hopefully all these new parts will also help with the highway twitchy-ness my truck has. Toe is set perfectly. I'm thinking it needs more caster. It only has dr. +2.1 - pass. +2.4 degrees of caster right now which seems to be too little caster according to the specs I'm finding on here. The camber is only off on the passenger side which reads +1 degree camber, but it does pull rather hard to the right. All bushings underneath look pretty new and I think the P.O. replaced all of them, but I'm doing the beam swap so I might as well put all new poly bushings in there...

Click to expand...

Poly is excellent for handling, rubber has a better ride. Can't speak for alignments specs, not my forte. New bushings and ball joints can definitely help bring alignment back into spec though. New springs would help too, but might be impractical.

For adjusting camber/caster on a 89-97 Ranger 2wd, you'll probably want a set of these:

NAPA part # 264-3950

They replace the factory camber/caster eccentric on the beam.

Bird76Mojo said:

I'm looking at these bushings, and I assume I'll have to re-use the pressed-in metal cup the bushings ride in, or try to source new ones??

https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/4.3119

Click to expand...

According to the instruction sheet found on that page:

...you must reuse your metal shell that is pressed into your I-beam, do not damage this shell.

Click to expand...

So I'd say that's a yes.

Bird76Mojo said:

I also assume these will work for the radius arm bushings?

https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/4.7110
Along with new heatshield cups: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=203606&cc=1138104&jsn=507

Click to expand...

Yes, but you probably don't need new heat shields. IIRC I replaced them too when I assembled the suspension, but I didn't really need to.

Bird76Mojo said:

Although I was curious about these. I'm not sure how they're used exactly.. I've never seen anything like them. They appear to raise or lower the rear end of the radius arms by twisting the bushings somehow? https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-k8746

Click to expand...

I have NEVER seen anything like that used on an I-beam Ranger.

Assuming that the truck is stock height with good bushings, the camber/caster eccentrics I linked above should be more than enough to bring it back into spec. Those are the eccentrics people used when installing drop springs on these truck, they'll put a truck with 2" drop springs and drop beams in spec.

Bird76Mojo said:

Just found this poly kit and it's priced pretty fairly I'd say: https://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/ford-ranger-front-end-bushing-rebuild-kit-2wd-1983-1997-p

Click to expand...

Those would work too. Energy Suspension and Prothane seem to be the biggest names in poly bushings, can't say one is any better than the other. I would imagine that those axle pivot bushings will need to use the existing shell as well, but should come with instructions that'll say one way or the other.

As the truck sits now, it has all new ball joints, tie rods, etc. New Moog progressive rate coil springs also. Alignment is very close but it does pull to the right more than I'd like, and it's twitchy on the road and likes to follow tire grooves in the road. I suspect it needs more caster as the numbers I have seem too low according to the specs listed in the tech library. The Mustang offset wheels I have probably add to the problem, as well as the directional tires. Some reviews on the tires mention that, but I think that adding more caster would help considerably. (wheels/tires shown in photo)


I'm gonna do the beam swap but I don't imagine I'll be able to use the original steel bushing "shells" with my luck...

When I pick up the 95-97 beams I plan to get a set of the Moog caster/camber adjusters. They seem like a simple enough way for my local (untrained/ignorant) alignment shop to figure out the process. I had to explain everything to him last time.


I just got a quote from my local scrapyard. $200 for both beams, complete from end to end, brakes, etc.. The hell of it is I can buy an entire parts truck around here for $100 more if I could just find one. That's the going rate though.


Thanks for the opinions and ideas. I appreciate it.



GB

Bird76Mojo said:

Alignment is very close but it does pull to the right more than I'd like, and it's twitchy on the road and likes to follow tire grooves in the road. I suspect it needs more caster as the numbers I have seem too low according to the specs listed in the tech library. The Mustang offset wheels I have probably add to the problem, as well as the directional tires.

Click to expand...

Yep, tires can do it too. Have you noticed if it is like that everywhere or just on certain roads? I have found in the past that certain roads can cause that no matter what you do, I think it has something to do with the way it was surfaced when poured.

Bird76Mojo said:

I'm gonna do the beam swap but I don't imagine I'll be able to use the original steel bushing "shells" with my luck...

Click to expand...

You asked, I just told you what the instructions said. Two sets of beams and the stock style pivot bushings should all be the same, so you've got four to try with.

Bird76Mojo said:

When I pick up the 95-97 beams I plan to get a set of the Moog caster/camber adjusters. They seem like a simple enough way for my local (untrained/ignorant) alignment shop to figure out the process. I had to explain everything to him last time.

Click to expand...

The NAPA ones I linked to above have the largest adjustment range available for these trucks. They are also a 2 piece design, so they can be used to adjust both camber and caster if your shop tech knows what they are doing. The Moog and others are one piece design and they will for camber or caster, not both, the closer you get on one the more the other will move out of spec.

If that's you opinion of the local alignment shop, I would also hunt for a better option even if it means going out of town. These old trucks have been out of production of 20 years. This suspension design was only used for the Rangers and F-series and is obsolete. They train them on this stuff anymore. When my 86 (and the 68 F-100 4wd I'm working on now) gets on the road, it won't be going to any of the chain shops that do alignment. I've already found two "mom and pop" alignment shops in the next town over that have been in the business since my trucks were new. Still have experienced and knowledgeable technicians.

Just saying...

Bird76Mojo said:

I just got a quote from my local scrapyard. $200 for both beams, complete from end to end, brakes, etc.. The hell of it is I can buy an entire parts truck around here for $100 more if I could just find one. That's the going rate though.

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Doesn't sound too bad to me. I think I gave $350 for the same set-up with DJM Dream beams and I had to drive a few hours to get it.

Wish I could find $100 parts trucks around here. Best I've seen in years was $500 for a non running truck that had been parked for a decade, needed a transmission, and missing both rear wheels. I'd have jumped on it, but it was gone before I could arrange transportation. Most local want $1000+ for a rolling pile of scrap metal.

Well, the truck is twitchy and too responsive everywhere, but on roads with severe tire grooves, it's downright sketchy. I tend to think it needs more caster as 2.1 to 2.4 just isn't enough according to the alignment specs I've seen recommended for these trucks. I'm just sick of not being able to relax a little while driving this truck. The steering keeps you on your toes at all times.

The steel bushing cups are usually seized in to the i-beam and you have to destroy them to get them out, so I'm gonna have to try to find some new ones somewhere. I haven't seen any online yet that come without the rubber already installed, and I haven't seen any urethane version that come with the steel cups.. So I may not be able to run poly, which is no big deal I suppose.

My local NAPA said they could get the adjustable MOOG Problem Solver bushings: http://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brandId=MC&pNum=K80109&partType=Alignment Caster/Camber Bushing


The alignment shop I've been going to, I like them because of their eagerness to please. They've always done everything the way I ask. They're very careful with new wheels especially, which most shops in this area could care less about. I've had brand new wheels scratched to hell by shops in the past, and this shop really takes precautions to avoid those types of things. Plus they have some of the nicest and newest equipment around to avoid those damages, etc..

I just wish I could find a source for real alignment specs for 2wd Rangers. Especially the caster.


Again, thanks for the responses.


GB

Understand the issue. Not as bad of rust issues down here, but I haven't tried to save them either. Could you make new sleeves out of properly sized pipe?


Didn't know Moog made a version that would fit the 2wds, thought their version was 4wd only. I'll save that info for future reference.

JoshT said:

Understand the issue. Not as bad of rust issues down here, but I haven't tried to save them either. Could you make new sleeves out of properly sized pipe?


Didn't know Moog made a version that would fit the 2wds, thought their version was 4wd only. I'll save that info for future reference.

Click to expand...

It's kind of hit and miss around here for rust issues. I suppose it depends on how many winters it was driven on the roads. Also, since they started using that liquid ice melt on the highways, vehicles have really went to shit fast. It's far more corrosive than salt.

I could fabricate nearly anything I need but those cups seem to have a taper to them. That would be hard to duplicate.



GB