Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: st. chuck county, mo.
Vehicle Year: 1993,1997,1984
Vehicle Make: ford
Vehicle Model: ranger,crown vic,b2
I use this vehicle for: hauling,driving
Rep Power: 27
from old 4.0 swap
hi more save data
This is several different write-ups, all combined. This is a lot of information.
Q: Will the 4.0L bolt to my 2.9L Tranny and motor mounts?
A: Yes, it will, since the 2.9L and 4.0L use the same block, the 4.0L has the same bolt pattern on both the motor mounts, and bell housing.
Q: What do I need from the donor 4.0L vehicle?
A: All you need is the wiring harness, computer, nothing more
Q: What tranny should I use?
A: Well, that depends, if you have a 2.9L Ranger with the Mitsu FM145 Manual trans, the 4.0L will bolt up, but there is not much telling how long it will hold. If you have this trans, swapping to a Mazda M5OD from another 4.0L Ranger is your best bet.
If you have the Toyo Kogyo 5sp (86 and 87 2.9L's, mostly 2wds) this tranny should be able to handle a 4.0L, and unless you really, really want to, a swap to a Mazda M5OD is not needed.
As for the A4LD, itís a gamble, since itís not the most reliable auto in the world. However, they were put behind 4.0L's from the factory, so, its your choice.
Q: Should I swap my stock axles?
A: Unless your planning on running out of this world tires, the stock 7.5in rear axle should be plenty. However, it is recommended to swap out the D28 Front axle to the stronger D35 front axle from a 4.0L Ranger or Explorer.
Q: What donor vehicles will work?
A: Any OHV 4.0L from a Ranger, Aerostar, or Explorer will work. The 4.0L was never used in BII's
Almost Step by Step
How to Swap a 4.0 Liter into a Bronco II
Step 1. Take lots of pictures of your Bronco II engine compartment and of a Ford Explorer's engine compartment before you begin.
Step 2. Gather all the parts and tools needed for the swap. One Bronco II, one complete 4.0 liter engine with all of the sensors and air box, complete engine compartment wiring harness, fuel lines, computer, 4 row radiator, etc out of a Ford Explorer.
Step 3. Remove the inner fender wells (this makes it easier to work on) and the Hood.
Step 4. Very carefully, disconnect the wiring and label everything.
Step 5. Remove the air intake tube, pull the radiator and set it a side.
Step 6. Un-bolt motor mounts and exhaust pipe, disconnect the heater hoses, fuel lines, A/C lines, remove the starter.
Step 7. Un-bolt the torque converter from the flex plate, and engine at the transmission and make sure that nothing else is holding the engine in place. At this point remove the Bronco II engine.
In my case, I disconnected the engine from the transmission and left the transmission and torque converter connected to the car (this will help to prevent fluid from spilling when the engine is disconnected), (remember to replace your front transmission seal (for automatic transmissions) before you put the 4.0 engine in place).
Step 8. This is a good time to inspect the engine compartment and to swap the wiring harness that goes to computer and transmission etc. Also, replace the front seal on the transmission (be sure to use lube on the seal rubber and the torque converter neck so you don't damage the new seal).
Step 9. Place the 4.0-Liter engine into the engine compartment. You may have to jack up the front of the transmission to help line it up to the engine.
Step 10. Bolt the new engine in place (motor mounts, transmission, exhaust pipes and line up and bolt the torque converter to the flex plate.
Step 11. Connect the wiring harness from the computer to the engine (donít forget to connect any ground wires). You're half way done!
Please note that the new wiring harness from the Explorer may not just plug into your fuse box at the driver's side firewall. My Bronco II didn't have a plug through wiring harness. So, I had to start matching up wires from the power distribution box to the harness going through the firewall on the driver's side. I'm still working on this one.
Step 12. Connect your fuel lines, heater hoses, and A/C lines.
Step 13. Install your new radiator and connect the hoses. Fill with coolant!
Step 14. Remove old Air box and install new 4.0 air box.
Step 15. Check for anything that I may have forgot to mention.
Step 16. Install the hood and fender wells.
Step 17. Recheck that every thing is connected right and you are done.
Wiring notes from my 2.9 liter to 4.0 liter Swap
The new explorer's wiring harness will just plug in to the 4.0 liter engine's sensors, but will have to be spliced into the harness that go through the fire wall on the driver's side. Here are some of my splices.
I retained the Bronco II's A/C harness that comes through the firewall on the passenger's side.
I retained the Alternator wires that come from the driver's side and spliced in the alternator wires that come off the explorer harness. This I may redo at a later time, to make it all look nice and neat.
Tachometer...Explorer wiring harness, the color of the wire is Tan/yellow, the Bronco II harness is Green/yellow coming from the driver's side through the firewall.
Vehicle Speed Sensor...91 Explorer wiring harness, the color of the wires are from pin 6 VSS ground is pink/orange, from pin 3 VSS signal is gray/black. On the 87 Bronco II, pin 6 is Black/white and pin 3 is dark green/white.
Converter Clutch Solenoid...91 Explorer wiring harness, the color of the wires are from pin 53 CCO trigger is purple/yellow, other wire is red (the same red that goes to pins 37 and 57.) On the 87 Bronco II, pin 53 is orange/yellow and other wire is red (the same red that goes to pins 37 and 57.)
As far as the 3-4 shift solenoid goes, the 1987 Bronco II code T A4LD automatic transmission w/OD doesn't have one. I still get a code 86 because of this item.
Park your Ranger next to a 4.0L Ranger if possible and compare the engine compartments. Take detailed notes on the location of the ECU, wiring harnesses, air intake, electrical system, fuel line connections, and plumbing for cooling and A/C. Vehicles earlier than the 1994 model year appear to be the best donors for this job since many of the swapped components replace similar or identical items in the recipient vehicle. 1995 and newer models have layout changes that would require extensive adapting.
Take photos of the 4.0L engine with all the components still intact for later reference. Obtaining a copy of Chiltons Ranger/Explorer/Mountaineer 1991-97 Repair Manual #26688 will give you the layout of the engines wiring, component locations, and vacuum line diagrams. When you begin disassembly of the 4.0 remember to label everything you disconnect in a manner so that you can easily reconnect them later. An example would be to use masking tape and start with the letter 'A' and label each wire connector (Male and Female sides) as 'A' to re-connect later. Go through the alphabet and then start double letters (AA,BB..etc) and continue.
Transmission compatibility is a consideration in this swap. Several transmissions were offered in the Ranger over the years. The one common factor is the engine to bellhousing bolt pattern which is identical for all years. The early model manual transmissions have a shorter input shaft with the pilot bearing in the flywheel, while the later years are longer with the bearing in the crankshaft. Of equal concern is the light duty design of the early model, which makes it more vulnerable to breakage. Newer model transmissions use a slave cylinder inside the bellhousing, so you'll need those components and the interconnecting tubing if you elect to swap one in.
Automatics are equally varied. Units that normally mate to the 4.0 have electronic controls by the engine computer for overdrive and torque converter lock up. It is possible to swap in an early transmission, but you will have to fabricate a terminator that emulates the auto-trans functions that are missing, or use a computer and wiring harness for a manual transmission set-up. Early trucks use floor shifters, while the explorers and later rangers have column shifters.
The fuel system also requires attention. Later models with EFI will be the easiest. All that's necessary is the adaption of the quick-connects for the fuel send and return lines in the engine bay. Both dual and single fuel pump configurations provide adequate pressure and flow for the new engine. If you're replacing a carb setup in an '85 or earlier model, you're facing a complete changeover of the fuel system. You'll need everything from the tank to the engine. The fuel injected engines use an in-tank fuel pump which operates with much greater pressure than a carbureted engine.
Air conditioning systems have some configuration changes between 1992 and 1993 models. Pre-1993 models used the same receiver/dryer and evaporator, so obtain an A/C hose setup from a 1992 or earlier engine. The hose assemblies will have the condenser connection on the left side of the vehicle, which mandates a condenser change. The newer style condenser bolts directly into place, making this an easy change. The compressor should come with the new engine and have no interchange issues.
At least four different electrical variations were offered over the years. Use either the Chilton book mentioned earlier or the proper Hayes manual for your Ranger. You'll need to review the sections appropriate for your vehicle and the donor to determine the correct splices. Fortunately, unique color codes are used, which make the work more foolproof.
Electrical mods can be facilitated by acquiring a few key components. First, use the power distribution system found on the newer vehicles. It simplifies the integration of the charging, power distribution and engine control systems. An added bonus is the 10 to 12 heavy duty auxiliary circuits that can be adapted for accessories such as aftermarket lights, stereo, and other electronics. Verify also that the computer and wiring harness match the transmission that your using. While the different versions may appear the same, there are subtle differences in the wiring harness and programming differences in the computer that will show up later. Obtaining connectors with 12-inch pigtails that mate with the computer wiring harness will smooth the splicing work and maintain the modular nature of the system.
There are also wiring changes to consider. The later model alternators use external regulators that require a sense wire with a current limiting resistor from the main power system. The 4.0 V-6 has a tachometer connection in it's wiring harness. However, due to the distributorless design, the signal it carries may not work with an existing tach. Finally, determine the correct splices to make for the fuel pump, ignition power, starter, power lead to the underdash fuse panel, A/C cutout relay and ammeter or charge light.
Bolting It In
The only custom work here will be drilling mounting holes or using a hack saw. Use the 4.0L factory motor mounts. Verify that the engine is complete with all belt driven accessories, intake and exhaust manifolds, crossover pipe, catalytic convertor, starter, throttle cable, and air induction system.
Take the time to lay out all the parts in their general locations and in relationship to one another. Ensure that everything you have mates correctly before it's installed. This is the time to service and replace any bad or worn parts.
Remove the engine following the guidelines in your Hayes or Chilton's manual. Once the engine compartment is empty, this is a good time to drill any new mounting holes and perform any necessary fuel system upgrades.
Install the new engine and transmission. Next, install the new computer and wiring harness. These locate in the same place and follow the same routes as the originals. Mount the fuel pump inertia switch adjacent to the computer, and the power distribution panel near the starter relay. Connect the harness to the engine, power distribution panel, vehicle speed sensor and alternator. Then route the remaining connectors to the general areas of the A/C cutout relay connector, fuel pump connector, ignition and power connectors, and carbon canister valve. Mount the electronic distributorless ignition module on the radiator support between the radiator and the right side headlight; then connect it to the computer wiring. Use the original wiring harness connections for the temperature oil pressure sensors.
Install all the engine components and the exhaust as outlined in the Hayes or Chilton's manual. Install the throttle cable.
Electrical work comes next. Install the color coded wiring using your manual and following the labels you made earlier. Early model Rangers will require the addition of a check engine light. Install any fuses and reinstall and reconnect the battery. Replace all the fluids and check for leaks. Start the engine. If all has gone well the engine will start on the first try. Check your work and check for leaks. Perform a diagnostic check. Once the diagnostic checks are done and the faults corrected it's time to have the A/C serviced and recharged. In some states it may be necessary to get an emissions certification before you can register your Ranger.
Comments From Those Who Have Done It......
here's an answer to the eternal 4.0 swap question. Thought it might be useful since there seems to be a few questions on this recently.
ok, yes it is possible to do it in a weekend if you know exactly what your doing. If you've had the motor out of your truck or pulled one out of another similar truck its really easy.
I did my swap and ha the 4.0 parts truck in my driveway so here what I did.
I started with the parts truck. Pulled the radiator/air intake/battery out. labeled all connectors a and a and so forth. Disconnected all the hoses/throttle cable/drive shafts. removed the y-pipe and cats. Removed the transfer case skid plate then the transmission mount. lowered the trans /trasfer case down and THEN took out the tcase.
I decided to use the trans that the 4.0 was attached to, but if you decide to keep your trans, it is still easier to get to the top bellhousing bolts by tipping the trans down.
If your pulling the trans, you'll have some more wires and hoses to label and remove. If its a manual trans, you'll have to remove the shifter before lowering the trans. If its a manual transfer case, you'll have to remove that shifter as well.
Next remove the engine mount nuts. Its easiest to get to them through the wheel wells. The 4.0 will have a stabilizer/damper on the drivers side. Re-use this on your truck.
then you should be able to pull the engine out. It is a tight fit if you leave the trans attached, but it will come out. It may bend the body seam on the firewall, but I didn't care cause its not noticeable outside and can be bent back into place. Also, the fan is flexible and will bend when it gets to the front support. I ended up just lifting the whole front of the truck up and with all that weight, shook the engine hoist around and the engine \"cleared\" anything that got in the way. It sounds destructive, but wasn't. Nothing broke!
Ok, Now you have the 4.0 out. It took me 10 days to do this by myself. Its just a matter of figuring out the little tricks to pulling everything apart.
Now on to the 2.9. Same as the 4.0 removal, but this only took me 5hrs!!!!, since I Knew exactly how to take everything apart.
Then you should be able to drop the 4.0 right in. You will reuse the 2.9 motor mounts. you'll use the 4.0 exhaust, radiator, hoses, air intake/box, throttle cable, engine harness, computer, TFI (on the radiator support).
About the engine harness, my swap was from a 91 into a 90. I pulled all of the harness out of the engine compartment including the fuse box and lights harness. this allowed it to be a straight plug in swap without having to splice any wires. Everyone I talked to said I would have to splice wires. Well, my swap has 4,000 miles on it and everything works and NO wires where cut!
You'll need the special tool for disconnecting the fuel lines.
other than that, email me with any other questions.
Doug's Swap info-
My truck is an 83 Ranger 4x4, had a 2.8/auto in it. I used a 5 speed from a 4.0, heard that it is stronger then the earlier 5 speeds. you will need:
4.0 motor mounts, a/c condenser(has a line on either side), 4.0 throttle cable, 4.0 clutch hose, 4.0 cat conv and exhaust form the same wheelbase as yours, 4.0 trans crossmember and mount, fuel injected charcoal canister.
You have to redrill the right motor mount hole and locator pin. The hole for the bolt was 1 1/2\", the pin is in a different spot so use the mount as a template.
I had to open the shifter hole in the floor up some, and trim the heat shield also. The trans crossmember needs to be drilled also. The left side goes above the frame, right side 3/4\" below. I had to grind the barb off the master cylinder end of the 4.0 clutch hose to get it to fit into the older master cylinder.
Had to trim a little to get the a/c condenser in the rad. support. On a truck with factory air, if you get the 4.0 cond. and a/c lines, everything fits just like it should.
Stock rad will hook up to the 4.0 hoses, whether it will keep it cool in the AZ heat remains to be seen.
Couple of different ways to handle the fuel system. You can use a fuel injected tank, internal pump, which cost me $165.00 with the sending unit, and then the external high pressure pump. Or you can use a carb. tank, a Holley or whatever electric pump (5-7 psi) and then the external high pressure pump. If you go the second way, take a piece of the fuel filler hose out, replace it with a piece of metal tube with a fitting for the return line. If you go the first way, make sure you get a plug for the fuel inj. tank for the sender unit because of the extra wires. I used metal lines all the way up to the engine compartment, with compression fittings hooking them up to the 4.0 fuel lines. You will need to get some of the metal lines from a 4.0 vehicle (down on the frame rail where they hook around and start to run down the frame). These are where the lines from the motor hook up.
The exhaust will use all the stock rubber hangers, at least mine did.
You will need the 4.0 starter.
The wiring depends on where the battery was in the donor vehicle. Mine was a 93 with the battery on the left side. The computer was tucked up under the dash from the engine compartment. Seeing as how I could not duplicate this, I had to extend almost all the computer wires. It sounds a lot harder then what it was. Keep in mind that Ford used the same color wires a couple of times in the harness, so just doing the one cut method is not advisable. I did them one at a time. If the donor had the battery on the right side, you will avoid this. On the harness that I had, even though the truck was a stick shift, the harness had all the wires for an auto. As far as hooking it up to the truck, if you don't have cruise control, you have to hook up a wire to the brake light switch, to the start and run terminals of the ignition switch, and to both posts of the battery. The power dist. box also gets hooked up to the battery. If you use the oil pressure and coolant temp. senders for your vehicle, your gauges will work if hooked up. The starter is different on the 4.0, it has a cable directly to the battery and a signal wire to the switched side of the relay.
I would suggest going to the library and getting the schematics for your truck and the donor. This is how I figured out what I could eliminate, as my donor was loaded and had all kinds of extra stuff tied into the harness and power dist. box. Would also suggest that you try to find a donor vehicle that is still together, this way you get everything you need, airbox etc. The yard I got the 4.0 from even left the power steering hoses on the pump, which hooked up to my box with no fuss. Get everything that is associated with the motor, better safe then sorry.
This is all that I can think of right now, if you have any questions, feel free to ask. It is basically a very simple swap, and a whole lot cheaper than a v-8. Dont get freaked out by the wiring, as it is simple. There is a red wire with a green stripe on the 4.0 harness that powers everything, this is the start/run wire that I mentioned. Other then this, it is like putting a set of driving lights on.
Hope this helped, If you can think of anything else that you might need to know, just let me know.
One final(?) thing. The Mazda 5 speed was difficult to find, I just stumbled across mind on another mailing list. The only other ones I found during a 3 month hunt were in the $1300.00 range. If anyone would like some information about a couple of shops that can build a tricked out a4ld, drop me a line. If all else fails, you can even use a c-4.
I'll start by saying that, if possible, find a copy of the October 9 issue of Four Wheeler magazine. It has an article I wrote about swapping this engine into these trucks. It's far more comprehensive than I can get in a simple message. Basically, though, you need the engine, computer, wiring harness, and all controls and accessories that connect to them. It's a complete bolt in swap that requires no expensive adapters or fabrication. I did the whole thing with common tools. The tranny bolts up fine, the motor mounts can be reused, the computer mounts in the exact same location as the old one, the wiring harness follows the same path, etc. I used the same radiator, heater, A/C (with newer compressor on the engine) and had to connect about 12-15 wires into the existing wiring for things like ignition & start, fuel guage, alternator output, etc. I used a Haynes manual to sort that out. One of the best things to do is park the two rigs side by side and make a comparison. You'll be surprised at the similarities.
I put a 4.0 in my 86 ranger from a 94 areo star I only had to change the computer. The rad was the same for both 2.9 and 4.0 so that was fine. I have to put a clutch in now I'am not sure what to put in. But the clutch from 2.9 will work some what I have had it in there for a year and it was the old one then and Its starting to slip now.
Why a 4.0?:
The 4.0 has considerably more power, and I actually got better gas mileage with it than I did with my Carbureted 2.8. Switching to a 2.9 Will only give you 10 more horsepower... so it's essentially not even worth it. The 3.0 has a one piece intake and throttle body assembly, and performance options are very limited on all 3 of these engines compared to the 4 liter.
What to expect:
My Bronco II has a 7 inch lift with 33 inch tires, is 4x4, and this truck gets 14 MPG, it hauls and performs excellent off road. It's like having a totally different truck. You will be much happier with your vehicle if you remove the old 2.8, 2.9, or 3.0 and drop in the 4 liter. I recommend you install a 2-3 inch body lift when doing the swap. It is not required, but it does give you a little more room under the hood to work with.
Step 1 is locating a donor vehicle. My donor vehicle was a '92 Explorer 2WD, 4 door automatic. For your engine to function properly, you must consider a few things. Basically any 4.0 has the same bellhousing as the other ford V6's, and will bolt up to them, HOWEVER, if you are using an automatic, I highly recommend you take the transmission from your donor vehicle because the older automatics and the newer ones will run and drive together, but it's not very nice. This has to do with the different valve body solenoid setup mainly.
**** Be sure you take a picture of the underhood setup before you pull it out!!****
Before you select your donor vehicle, you need to know what parts you are going to need which are listed here:
4.0 Engine, complete with all accessories
Throttle cable and cruise control cable/assembly (if desired)
air tube with air filter housing, and Mass Air Flow Sensor
complete wiring harness from under the hood
wiring harness from A/C Fan
A/C Lines (If A/C is desired)
A/C Condenser (If A/C is desired)
A/C Compressor (Required)
Motor Mounts (although while it is out is a good time to buy new ones)
Exhaust Crossover Pipe
Sending unit/fuel pump assembly (if current motor is carbureted)
Power Distribution box
When you are removing the harnesses from the donor vehicle, DO NOT CUT unless you are 100% positive. It is very nice to have your harness just snap right in.
Great! Now you've got your equipment. Now for the next essentials... Go buy a CHILTON's manual (Not Haynes, their wiring diagrams are poor) for your donor, and for your current vehicles. This will help you figure out where to make certain connections and piece together little bits and pieces (chances are if you get your motor from a wrecker there may be something wrong with it).
Now you're ready to tear in and start your conversion. Pull out your old motor, and trans if you are replacing that too. Strip out all of the old garbage emissions components as well, as the 4.0 setup doesn't require them, and it will free up some space to mount the numerous sensors and modules that go with it.
If your old setup was carbureted, you'll need to drop the fuel tank, remove the sending unit/pickup assembly and replace it with the fuel injected one. Once this is in place, attach the new fuel lines to it.
Ford didn't make the 4.0 until after 1989, which was when they switched their sending units over to a different OHM range. By installing a newer sending unit in your tank, you will make your gas gauge inoperable. There is a way around the problem, which is also a smart way to go. Get your fuel lines and sending unit from a vehicle like yours. (IE: If you have an '85 Bronco II, find an 86-88 Bronco II and get the sending unit and fuel lines out of it, they are already bent to fit perfectly in your vehicle, and they will work with your factory gas gauge)
Before you bolt the tank back in, ohm out the fuel pump, and sending unit to make sure they are in working condition.
Dropping the motor in:
Replacing the 2.8, you will need to drill new holes for the passenger's side motor mount. I don't remember the exacts of it, but you should eyeball it so it sits level and even with the driver's side one. If you are a little off it won't matter because the mounts are flexible. Drill the necessary holes using your preferred method of locating it, and install it. You should have a bare underhood compartment when you this. Drop the motor in, and bolt it down to the motor mounts. Sit back for a few seconds and admire your beast (well... compared to the previous motor anyway). The motor is done first because it's position is the most important. Your new trans, if an auto, should be the same length as before, and should bolt right in. Put in the trans as you normally would.
Remove the old motor's throttle cable if it won't reach, and install the one from the 4.0. This is also a good time to swap the cruise control \"black box\" that connects to the throttle cable, this is just a bolt in replacement for your other cruise control with a different cable, all electrical is the same.
Connect the fuel lines to the engine. I highly recommend you change the fuel filter here, because you don't know what shape the old one is in, and it's cheap as hell.
This is thought to be the most difficult, but actually it isn't.
Retain your original starter solenoid. Locate the power distribution box in the 4.0 harness and bolt it to the battery side of your starter solenoid. It has a short cable, so this should be done first. remove the connections that your original vehicle has there, if any. Now it is time to start soldering. Your new Power Distribution box has a provision for an ignition switch. cut off the ring terminals from the wires that were connected to the battery side of the solenoid and solder them onto that. It has a 60 amp fuse on the circuit which is plenty.
Locate your original ECM and remove it, and the harness that went with it. Run the 4.0 harness in through the hole in the firewall and hook up the ECM to it. Go through and plug in all the connectors that you removed in the process, and put it back together the way it was, so basically what you will have under the hood is a complete 4.0 system as it was in your donor vehicle, and I will guide you through integrating this newer system to the controls of your older one.
First, we will do the starter. Locate the starting/ignition diagram in your repair manuals for each vehicle, and splice the appropriate wires together over on the firewall on the driver's side. In my case, it was a Red/Blue wire going to a Pink wire in the 4.0 harness. Then take that over to your solenoid to the \"S\" terminal. Then you will need to take some light gauge wire from the \"I\" terminal and run it down to the heavy duty starter cable. Connect that wire to the solenoid that is on the starter itself, and connect the heavy duty cable in the obvious place. At this point, you should have power to crank your vehicle over from your ignition switch.
Now we will supply fuel and power to the engine so it can start. Start with the Fuel Pump.
The #1 fuse in the power distribution box is a 30 amp fuse for the fuel pump. There is a connection in the 4.0 harness that runs all the way back to the fuel pump, and the inertia switch comes in the cab where the computer and blower motor wires do. Connect the inertia switch, and mount it anywhere up under the dash there, being sure the red button is facing up. Run the wires back on your frame rail back to the fuel pump connector, and connect the other end to the appropriate connector near the firewall on the Driver's side. Now locate a red/green wire in both harnesses here. Solder those together and this powers everything in the 4.0 harness. After connecting all appropriate connectors, and GROUNDS, DON'T FORGET GROUNDS, Turn your key to the on position. If you hear the fuel pump engage in the tank, you should be able to turn your key and start the engine, because the ECM power relay turns on the fuel pump relay and the power to your Distributorless ignition.
Next we will connect your alternator. The field terminal on the alternator runs to your power distribution box, and the power cable connects to the battery side of your starter solenoid.
Your oil Pressure and Temperature gauges will connect and work with the 4.0 sending units. Connect them on the firewall on the driver's side.
Your ECM requires an input from your brake light switch in order to control the transmission properly. It connects to Pin 2 which is a light green wire. Locate the side of your brake switch that DOES NOT have constant power and tap onto it with this wire. (this will alert your transmission to disengage the TCC Lockup and also come out of overdrive).
The Fuel Gauge will work if you used the proper OHM range sending unit, otherwise you will need to install an aftermarket one, which is what I did. This will get you running and on the road.
4.0L V6: On '86 and newer 2.9L V6 equipped vehicles, this is essentially a bolt-in swap. The 4.0 engine control computer, engine wiring loom, cooling system, and transmission should all be swapped in. This engine makes 170 hp, and can be upgraded with a Duff Power Chip, a free flow air filter, and even a supercharger.
Another list of details can be found here:
This is a site intended for commercial rebuilders to understand some of the internal differences in some components.
More details of what will work and what 4.0 components MUST be used as \"sets\"
The basic rule of thumb is try really hard to get all of your pieces from ONE donor, or failin that virtually identical donors.
What about a 2001 and up 4.0 I think 210Hp from a Explorer and 207 from Ranger/B4000. Is this swap possible in a 96 B2300 or has this swap been done before! Just wondering because the closest swap that I've heard of is up to 2000. Any info would be appreciated. This what I am shooting for!
Took a complete '92 Explorer and gutted it without cutting any wires. Removed engine/trans from '85 BroncoII [leaving transfer case intact]. Installed '92 Explorer engine/ trans in not neccesarily this order----> Put new rear main seal,oil pump, ect in 4.0, serviced transmission. Used 2.8 mounts on 4.0 block[unmodified]. Explorer a/c condenser,new accumulator,new a/c hose from compressor. Explorer blower motor[much larger motor-same fan], rewired a/c and blower wiring to match Explorer [BII had no high blower relay -Explorer does] Alternator only needs 1 wire hooked up-hot in run,no dummy light required. [BII had ammeter] Only wiring thats confusing is the nuetral safety switch- Explorer has an extra wire that goes to the electric transfer case shift module-85 BII is manual shift. Fuel pump and filter won't fit in stock BII location due to brake lines/proportioning valve :x Used '88 BII sending unit and fuel lines to surge tank. From the engine back to the surge the lines are a mix of shortened [with 5/16 comp. fittings] stainless Explorer lines and BII plastic lines [shortened by cutting heating and reinstalling ends]. '88 BII Bosch main fuel pump. '92 Explorer Hedman headers required custom shift linkage for a4ld made from an idler pulley and rod ends...very tricky to adjust. Cut off converter and stuffed 3 in. ovaled pipe into converter flange-perfect fit. Basically made the BII look like an Explorer under the hood from condenser to trans. tailhousing. Spent 2 mos. of spare time and probably 2k of my boss' money. Nope it ain't even mine! Definitely a worthwhile swap. This beast isn't a hotrod but it does smoke the tires and runs 90 at 1/4 throttle in overdrive.
what do i need to swap 3.slow to a 4.gowould like to stay around same year i have auto ; ; 4x4
If you have a good donar vehicle you can swap out the entire wiring harness. The swap out the dash and you have a direct plug and play connection. The good thing about your swap is that you already have the high pressure fuel pump and lines. Im currently swapping my 85's carburated 2.8 for a 91's fuel injected one. It make a little more work. Justt label everything an you will be fine.
3g certified welder
Originally Posted by mattpresley
GMs quality is freaking horrific. Prolly better off in a kia, old daewoo or old yugo, seriously