'97 Ranger Build

GJ123 · Oct 24, 2018

Making progress again... I installed Skyjacker softride 6" lift springs last night, while also removing the stock block and moving the shackle hangers back one set of bolts.

I would guess I gained about 2" over stock with this setup (I forgot to take measurements...). The Skyjacker springs have 3+1 leaves, whereas the aftermarket stock replacements had 2+1.

The shackle hanger is now just under 90* compared to the spring, which seems to be a generally accepted angle? Definitely much better than before when it was before, at or past vertical.

I still have to bleed the brake lines, reinstall the hitch/bumper, and install the bed with associated electrical hookups. I'll have to see where the springs settle out after they have been on there for a while, I may have to install a small block this winter when I put in the explorer axle.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Denisefwd93 · Oct 24, 2018

I'm following your build!
My Skyjacker50" add a leaf just arrived! they're long soft ride

I have a question, maybe you can answer rather than me make a separate post. The clips that are riveted on the spring leaf can they get removed and replaced with an after market type? I read one thing where the tabs can be bent straight and a thru bolt added.

Shran · Oct 24, 2018

Denisefwd93 said:
The clips that are riveted on the spring leaf can they get removed and replaced with an after market type?

Yes. The purpose of the clips is to keep individual leaves from spinning out of the spring pack (it does happen.)

GJ123 · Oct 24, 2018

This is what they look like on the Skyjacker springs I received:

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Denisefwd93 · Oct 24, 2018

Oh yes, I am definitely aware of that the leaves move, I'm just wondering what I should get for when I take it over to the shop and have them installed, I see the spring type, bend over type, u bolt type, and thru bolt type.

Shran · Oct 24, 2018

Same type you have on there now is fine, I don't like the bend over ones, they can get un-bent.

Denisefwd93 · Oct 24, 2018

Well because the new add a leaf is so long the existing clamps probably have to be bent open or removed I'm thinking (I'm learning to weld) I can get my friend Hank to weld tabs on them and add a thru bolt.

AllanJYork · Oct 27, 2018

Subscribed to your thread. You're doing a awesome job. Those fx4 seats are pretty sweet eh

Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

GJ123 · Oct 28, 2018

Thanks! Yes they will be a nice upgrade from the mazda seats I have now.

Boring update, I've been battling my brake system for a while and I've finally made some headway. I planned on just hooking my stock axle back up because I will be swapping in the explorer axle I picked up this winter, but rust has been causing some issues - busted brake lines, rusted together bleeder, etc.

In the end I put in all new drum hardware, new lines from the RABS back, new shoes, and a new drivers side e brake cable. I had some leaks that I hope are fixed after re-tightening some connections... but I did have to cut and re-flare the end at the RABS unit because after removing/reinstalling 3 times it still leaked. Before doing so I verified that it is the double flare because I had heard some years may have used a bubble flare in this location.

I also ordered new bed hardware - I had tried to use evaporust to restore the originals, but they had lost some threads so I ordered the Dorman kit.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

GJ123 · Nov 3, 2018

Finally! The ranger is driveable once again. One of the things I didn't realize is how many issues would be caused by the Kartek hangers.

First, because I moved them back one set of holes (ie front bolts in the holes for the rear) I was no long able to properly bolt up my bumper or receiver hitch. While this isn't a huge issue because I am going to be building my own, I had to come up with a temporary solution. So, I chopped the bumper mounts where they interfered with the gusset on the hangers, and used a single bolt on each side. The first photo shows how tight it is there with the hanger bolts and bumper bolts sharing that space; however I was able to swap out the hex drive bolt shown for a standard grade 8.

Second, even with the drop hangers the Belltech shackles were nearly making contact with the bed. So, I hammered down the pinch seam and clearanced the rear. Again. I just wanted to get it going for the time being, and I will be doing a better job when I swap on the other bed.

While it was in the dark, it was good to finally see how it sits with the new suspension. It's pretty close to perfect right now, but I'm guessing that I may have to look at adding a leaf or using a shorter shackle as they settle.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

GJ123 · Nov 3, 2018

Today I got to see how the new springe handling some road time and some light hauling.

On the road they ride great, I noticed immediately how well it handled in comparison to the old springs.

When hauling they seemed similar to the original springs - little change there. The picture was with maybe a 1/3 cord of oak/hackberry.

I did notice they are definitely sitting lower than I thought, so I may move them to the lower hole on the shackles, or run a smaller shackle altogether.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

GJ123 · Nov 16, 2018

Making some changes...

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

GJ123 · Dec 7, 2018

I finished up my work on the rear frame. I removed the stock crossmember and replaced it with the receiver hitch. This was necessitated by the installation of the kartek hangers. The hitch bolts into the rivet holes from the stock rear crossmember.

I chopped up the stock bumper temporarily to allow access to the hitch. I'll be putting a simple tube bumper together soon to provide some protection while I decide what direction to go with my bumpers.

I also dropped the leaf springs down one hole on the shackle. It's still sitting too low for my liking, so I may have to put in a small block or use a shorter shackle. I will also have to get some longer shocks, I believe these shocks, for 0"-2" of lift, are limiting my travel.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

GJ123 · Dec 13, 2018

Small update today. Donor cab removed.

Anyone have any suggestions for the underside of the cab before I get ready for the swap?

Currently thinking lizard skin ceramic on underside and firewall, with either black paint or bedliner as a top coat.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Denisefwd93 · Dec 13, 2018

GJ123 said:
Small update today. Donor cab removed.

Anyone have any suggestions for the underside of the cab before I get ready for the swap?

Currently thinking lizard skin ceramic on underside and firewall, with either black paint or bedliner as a top coat.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Okay I give up, what is lizard skin?
Edit I looked it up http://m.lizardskin.com/

How long did it take to remove the cab and I see everybody doing it but very little talk about how it's done, where do I find the write up on that, or is it just not difficult?

'97 Ranger Build

New Member

Well-Known Member

Junk Collector

New Member

Well-Known Member

Junk Collector

Well-Known Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

Well-Known Member

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Today's birthdays

Member & Vendor Upgrades

Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Amazon Deals