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4.0L cylinder heads


chewy97

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I have a 2003 ranger with a 4.0 I just replaced the water pump thermostat thermostat housing and radiator now I think I am in the market for new heads. It blows white steam until it gets up to normal operating temperature then the steam goes away. I'm not one to spend money twice or do something twice. My question is where can I get a set of new heads?
 


RonD

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Many cars/trucks blow white until engine(actually exhaust system) warms up, depends on where you live.

When you combine gas("H"ydrocarbon) and air("O"xygen), and then burn it, one of the byproducts is H2O(water), so all gas engines make water and when there is enough in the exhaust system it drips out the tail pipe, lol.
This is why exhaust systems rust from the inside out.

Add humidity to the outside air, being sucked into the engine, and you get more water in the exhaust system.
Also outside air temp effects if you can see the white "smoke"

When you start up the engine and exhaust system cold, the left over water in the pipes, cat, muffler all starts to heat up, when it gets hot enough it turns to vapor, not "steam", when this water vapor hits the tail pipe and outside air it can condense, make bigger white "smoke" clouds.

On very cold days tail pipe has white "smoke" all the time.


Is your overflow tank full to the top?
Is the engine temp gauge going up then down then up higher?

Both of these will happen if head gasket is blown or if head is cracked.


No reason to fix it twice, but no reason to fix it if it ain't broken either
 
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chewy97

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The temperature gauge does go up and down. It Will blow heat for a couple miles then blows cold air for a couple miles then back to blowing heat and the resavour tank over flows after driving 10 or more miles. The coolant in the tank bubbles after in shut the truck off. I'm pretty sure it's a head gasket or a head. It did over heat on me twice before I changed the thermostat housing.
 

cp2295

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Yeah I'd have to agree with you. I'm in the process of the same issue, I did the bouncin glove test that Ron told me about.

Disconnect the ignition coil so you get no spark.

Remove the radiator cap and overflow tube, plug where the overflow tube goes (I used a vacuum line plug but you can use whatever works for you). Then take a rubber glove and rubber band it where the rad cap goes so you get a good seal.

Crank motor over and see if the glove bounces, it took a few seconds of cranking for it to show up for me.

If the glove bounces Pull plugs one at a time until the glove stops bouncing. (Reinstall the plugs that don't change the glove bouncing)

Once you come across the plug that makes the glove stop bouncing put it back in to reconfirm the condition.

You have found the source of the issue when you come across the cylinder that's got the leak, by removing the plug you relieve the pressure that's being leaked into the cooling system.

Could be a blown gasket, warped head, or cracked head at the valve seats.


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chewy97

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Who makes a set of aftermarket heads and where can I get a set?
 

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There were two 4.0l engines from Ford,
1990-2000 4.0l OHV(over head valve),
and 1997 and up 4.0l SOHC(single overhead cam), Rangers got this engine in 2001, Explorers got it in 1997

Not sure if there are 3rd party heads for these, rebuild Ford heads yes.
Look here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/REBUILT-PAIR-4-0-FORD-V-6-SOHC-CYLINDER-HEADS-EXPLORER-MOUNTAINEER-RANGER-/351576651054

While I am not sure it is required I would still try to get the same casting number of your heads.
The 4.0l SOHC heads are not known for cracking like the 4.0l OHV heads were, so rebuilding your heads after a pressure check would be the better option.
 

enjr44

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And one more thing to think about. The engine will have to come out to change the heads in the SOHC engine.
 

chewy97

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I am assuming that the reason the motor has to come out is because of the timing chain in the back of the engine.
 

cp2295

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Correct. Horrible design, worst timing system ever thought of


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chewy97

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Since the pulling the motor is inevatable what would be some good performance parts to add for some extra hp. Headers injectors intake stuff like that.
 

cp2295

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I'd say headers are a good one for the free flowing sohc. How many miles are on the rig? You may want to consider checking the rod and main bearing clearances and doing a re-ring. You can get the cams ground for more lift/duration but idk if that would be ideal for you

I'd stick with stock injectors those should be plenty sufficient.

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enjr44

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The stock exhaust manifolds flow pretty good. I don't think you will gain much with headers. Or find the room under there to put them.
 

chucky2

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If you're pulling the motor and doing all that work, you're going to put new sprockets, chains, and chain guides (cassets or whatever they're called) in right? Along with new tensioners.

Now would be the time to do it...
 

cp2295

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Definitely. Even tho it's the updated design they're still prone to failure. You need the Otc timing tool too. Ain't cheap


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chewy97

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What is an otc timing tool. Yes I was planing on replacing the timing components.
 

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