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Old 01-19-2019, 08:16 AM   #11
94sport
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Originally Posted by BlackBII View Post
1.25" .120 wall DOM and Chevy '1 ton' tie rod ends are what I used and it worked great. I used the offset tie rod ends to get an extra inch of drop but I also made my own center link and idler arm. I haven't noticed any bump steer, but I also have electric power steering and a 24:1 steering box which may change things a bit.

The super runner kit would work well with the center link dropped an inch or two. As long as the steering links and axle beams move on the same arc you should get very little bump steer.

Have you looked into the swing style setups as well? A bit more work, but it's the best solution.
yeah I've been looking at a lot of options, I feel bad buying the superrunner only to change things, like use some offset TRE's and make the one rod end for the pitman arm a 1 ton and replaceable. Stonecrusher Interests me and I've seen a lot of guys do it I just figured the Fredilink was a product that I haven't seen a lot of when it comes to custom RBV steering. my steering now is okay, drifts a little and has dead spots and some minor bumpsteer I just figured that its an area on my vehicle that is neglected in comparison to the rest of the suspension and axles.
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Old 01-19-2019, 11:37 AM   #12
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Have you adjusted the steering box at all? You can tighten it up a bit with the screw and locknut on the top. Just don't go too tight as it'll wear faster. Also to state the obvious, make sure you don't have any play in any of the tie rod ends. Do you have a pic of the Fredilink? I haven't heard of it
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Old 01-19-2019, 01:36 PM   #13
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Yeah I've been thinking if I'm going to do the work of SAS I might as well get a 60 but I do have the 44 lying around, But its hard for me to want to regear it when I barely regeared my d35 and 8.8 less than 6 months ago, I figure I better at least get my moneys worth. but I have a feeling I could be pretty content with 36inch iroks and locked in the front... probably just get an aussie anyway, I don't want to reset the front.
i think a 44 is a great replacement for a dana 35 if you dont want to put in the time, or if your only in the rocks. but its just as much work as a 60, slightly cheaper. the 44 and a the 35 use the same size u joint. so im not sure that theres much for extra strength, unless you invest serious $$$ but then youll be at or near the cost of a 60. i can get a 05+ with 3.73 gears for 450, those things are beef.

since you regeared and you mostly snow wheel, id say roll roll with the d35, you dont really require flex, if you ever do then acquire some long arms and eb springs. the locker will take care of the rest.

as far as the aussie locker. i highly recommend one. seen tons of friends buy the spartan, or lockright only to get a few wheeling seasons out of it. ive had my aussie for 6 years without an issue. its made with american steel. idk if the new style is available for the dana 35, but its even more beef than before and guys are abusing the hell out of them
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Old 01-19-2019, 04:52 PM   #14
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I'll second the Aussie locker. Have had one in my Dana 35 for years. Never had an issue with it. It locks and unlocks like it should. The lock right in the rear however... That thing is retarded, at least on the street. It clunks and locks and unlocks whenever it feels like it. Off road it works great.
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Old 01-19-2019, 09:16 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by BlackBII View Post
Have you adjusted the steering box at all? You can tighten it up a bit with the screw and locknut on the top. Just don't go too tight as it'll wear faster. Also to state the obvious, make sure you don't have any play in any of the tie rod ends. Do you have a pic of the Fredilink? I haven't heard of it
This is the Fredilink, can be straight drilled or Chevrolet TRE taper, so I figure I could do stonecrusher steering but i might need to lift more/change pitman arm unless I get a tube bender. seems like less $$ and work to make stonecrusher with a 20$ fredilink then spend the money on superrunner and modify it from the box.

*Image of Fredilink
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Old 01-19-2019, 09:18 PM   #16
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i think a 44 is a great replacement for a dana 35 if you dont want to put in the time, or if your only in the rocks. but its just as much work as a 60, slightly cheaper. the 44 and a the 35 use the same size u joint. so im not sure that theres much for extra strength, unless you invest serious $$$ but then youll be at or near the cost of a 60. i can get a 05+ with 3.73 gears for 450, those things are beef.

since you regeared and you mostly snow wheel, id say roll roll with the d35, you dont really require flex, if you ever do then acquire some long arms and eb springs. the locker will take care of the rest.

as far as the aussie locker. i highly recommend one. seen tons of friends buy the spartan, or lockright only to get a few wheeling seasons out of it. ive had my aussie for 6 years without an issue. its made with american steel. idk if the new style is available for the dana 35, but its even more beef than before and guys are abusing the hell out of them
Yeah I was thinking the aussie, but I love my spartan in the rear I never notice it and I have had no issues. I have extended arms, I just haven't found the right EB springs, looking to keep around 4in of lift.
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Old 02-01-2019, 09:12 AM   #17
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For what it’s worth I would highly recommend the 320 ppi eb springs I have. I can drop a 37” tire below the body line, and fully compress them to the stock bump stops. I have been running them without sway bars, front or rear. The body roll is manageable. With the front sway bar on it rides super well in town, like a Cadillac. They don’t flex as well as some of the lower weight coils but you honestly don’t need that much, when your locked up.

They were 3.5 eb springs, 320 ppi. 18.5 free length. I think from bronco graveyard. I had to raise my coil buckets 1 inch so I would only get 2 inches of lift. So they netted 3 inches. I would stack washers or something underneath them for 4 inches.

I can get you a part number if your interested.
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Old 02-01-2019, 01:00 PM   #18
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For what itís worth I would highly recommend the 320 ppi eb springs I have. I can drop a 37Ē tire below the body line, and fully compress them to the stock bump stops. I have been running them without sway bars, front or rear. The body roll is manageable. With the front sway bar on it rides super well in town, like a Cadillac. They donít flex as well as some of the lower weight coils but you honestly donít need that much, when your locked up.

They were 3.5 eb springs, 320 ppi. 18.5 free length. I think from bronco graveyard. I had to raise my coil buckets 1 inch so I would only get 2 inches of lift. So they netted 3 inches. I would stack washers or something underneath them for 4 inches.

I can get you a part number if your interested.
that would be awesome, might need a bit more washers depending because I have sagged my rough country springs about 1/2 inch and have some washers under them. I also recently count a new place for softer explorer springs. 2nd gen Isuzu trooper lift springs, they still have a pigtail like XJ springs and usually have about a 310-330ppi rating the only problem is that they are short, like usually 17/18 inches free length. but yeah anything would be helpful thinking about doing some more overlandy stuff with my explorer and run some less agressive tires for summer camping/ wheeling then getting some beadlocks and larger tires for winter.
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Old 02-02-2019, 03:18 AM   #19
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https://shop.broncograveyard.com/mob...uctinfo/13202/

I’ve had these for 3 years and haven’t noticed any sagging.
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Old 02-18-2019, 04:36 PM   #20
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Sorry, been away from town (and the internet) for a bit... (it was actually quite pleasurable too BTW )


Anyway, I'm not familiar with the offset TREs you spoke of, but unless the actual pivoting point (position of the ball stud) is moved, they won't do anything to change the overall geometry (bumpsteer) of the frontend.

Reports abound of continued bumpsteer with the so-called "stonecrusher" setups too, I suggest you keep away from that junk and just keep what you have now.

IMO the only really decent steering setups for a TTB are a K-link style (correctly positioned, of course), or a crossover or swingset setup of some sort.
The K-link with it's straight tie-rods has the potential to be sturdiest of anything (I have DOM tube & 1-ton TREs on mine)... A crossover however will maintain the toe alignment better at full droop if you plan to jump the thing a lot (but it will need significant bends put in the tie rods for everything to clear the front differential properly).



I helped a friend with this setup on his 2-Dr last summer (along with Fox reservoir shocks and Jeep XJ springs)...

Thing handles awesome, better than mine even since it still has the stabilizer bar (he still hasn't stopped raving about it, though he also did have a 2" too-short drop pitman arm on the stock linkage before).

◊2 on the steering gear, any slop or dead-spots (play in the steering) many times can be reduced or eliminated with the meshload adjustment screw on the top. Just be careful you don't overtighten it, or it could bind up while on-center.
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