TK4 won't go into gear after TO bearing replacement

dwhile · Feb 17, 2019

I’ll compare the new cylinder pushrod length to the old one, but I believe it’s the correct cylinder. Idea about the pushrod sounds promising, I’ll see how cheap I can grab one from work. I started thinking the same about the power bleeder so I’ve been using a reverse bleed technique where the slave cyl is compressed repeatedly to force air up the line. Got a lot of air out and pedal feel is good, so may try longer rod. Thanks for the idea!

dwhile · Feb 18, 2019

Leftmost rod is the new slave cyl rod, middle is old cyl rod, and right is pushrod I just tried to replace the cyl rod with. The extra length on the pushrod did not help, still wouldn't go into gear. I have a little bit of stuff I need to do around the house then I'll go out and remove starter, have wife press clutch pedal, and see whats happening in there.

dwhile · Feb 18, 2019

Got some stills from a video I took of my wife pushing the clutch pedal. Looks good to me, anyone see otherwise?

RonD · Feb 18, 2019

"Looks like" it is pushing in far enough but hard to tell

But if you can't shift into any gear with engine running then it is not releasing clutch disc enough, simple as that

Clutch disc MUST slow down to 0 RPMs to put transmission into any gear when you are stopped, thats how it works

And why you CAN shift into any gear when engine is off, clutch disc is at 0 RPMs when engine is off

dwhile · Feb 18, 2019

Will bleed more, and I'm sure it'll work eventually.

alwaysFlOoReD · Feb 18, 2019

I've had my best luck bleeding with a vacuum. I don't know if your system bleeder would be accessible. Anyway, here is a pic of my homemade vacuum bleeder. I hook up to engine vacuum.

RonD · Feb 18, 2019

Bleed it without slave pushrod in place, slave piston should have a stop that will prevent it from popping out.

My thinking is that the pressure plate resistance is not letting slave expand fully, so you are not getting full travel at the slave regardless of pushrod length, its being held in by the pressure

dwhile · Feb 18, 2019

Ron will try that tomorrow, makes sense.

1984ranger28 · Feb 18, 2019

When I replaced the slave cylinder on my Ranger, I bleed the clutch using this kit here.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/ABN-One-Man-Brake-Bleeder/dp/B00SYQQ6KK&ved=2ahUKEwiD-vPY18bgAhWFyoMKHavKCOkQFjAIegQIBRAB&usg=AOvVaw2G6egm04BOhvR9BmuPAKTb&cshid=1550541116006

All you do is put the hose with the black nozzle and stick it in the hole in the clutch fluid reservoir, and put enough downwards pressure on the hose to seal it, and suck on the hose. Then just lift up on the hose and dump the fluid back in the reservoir. It took me about 15 minutes of repeating this to get it bleed, but it worked great.

dwhile · Feb 19, 2019

I saw a guy on Youtube do that, I'll have to grab one of those little black ends from work today and give it a shot.

Mike Tonon · Feb 19, 2019

Ah!... I see what happened here. That’s a throw out bearing. You’re supposed to throw those out.

dwhile · Feb 19, 2019

Tried applying suction through a nozzle to the master cylinder which did not result in any change. Removed the slave cyl pushrod and bled, still no change. After all the additional bleeding, pedal returns extremely slowly once fully pressed. Worse off than before. I think it may be a defective master cylinder. I'll take the cylinders back off the truck and bench bleed to see if I can produce any pressure in the system. If not, I'm considering trying to get a replacement master cyl.

RonD · Feb 19, 2019

Yes, at this point I would replace master

Denisefwd93 · Feb 19, 2019

Unless you have a bad connection with the push in click, line connector...

dwhile · Feb 19, 2019

If I can’t build any pressure in the system tomorrow I’ll bring it back to the parts store. I’ve only had it for a week, it should hold pressure.

TK4 won't go into gear after TO bearing replacement

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