Installing a Safari Snorkel on a 1993-1995 Ford Ranger

I found some of the Safari Snorkel info on the web to install them onto our trucks kind of lacking, so I went a little overboard.

Original Poster: MountainMike

Difficulty: 6 out of 10

Time to install: Took me about 3 hours, but my inner fenderwell was a fight. Plus I was taking my time and messing around on other things. Could be done in 2 with focus.

Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.

Brief Explanation: Basic science will show you water doesn’t like to be compressed. Moving your intake up will help you with not only if you plan to do proper river crossing but splash damage as well when you decide to hit that puddle at speed because “It’ll be totally sweet, dude.”

Tools Needed:
– Drill
– Hole saw set
– Stepper bit
– Basic socket set
– Screwdriver set
– Duct tape

Parts Needed:
– Snorkel kit (Safari Snorkels SS60HF – Fit 60 Series 1989-1989 Toyota Land Cruiser)
– Get some PVC pipe, 2.5″ and 3″

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Step 1:

Remove your inner fender liner. I got deceived and went to remove my fender flare as well, but it’s not needed. There is nothing underneath you need to access to remove the liner. You’ll have to remove your airbox and undo the various screws to undo it. There are two obvious ones up top and at the front and bottom, and two little guys attaching it to the fender. If you can pressure wash your wheel well out first, do it up. I got covered by so much smoist and gross nasty mud, it’ll make your experience much more enjoyable.

Step 2:

Drill baby drill. Line up the snorkel a few hundred times and find a place you like it and it’ll clear the door. You can use this picture as a reference for the body line and badge. The snorkel kit comes with a template that gives you all your alignment points. I had to use a stepper bit to make the holes bigger than the kit said because the body lines of our truck don’t completely match the Land Cruiser’s.

Step 3:

Insert the studs into the snorkel body. I used a little red Loctite to secure them in permanently.

Step 4:

Place the tube the snorkel kit comes with in the fender, preparation is key. The snorkel piping will be run under the second battery tray, no more cutting needed at this point.

Step 5:

Bolt the snorkel up. If you had to oversize the holes out at all don’t worry, the kit comes with some nice big fender washers.

Step 6:

RTV up the elbow the kit comes with and slip it on the snorkel tube. The kit gives you a couple rivets to attach it as well. You’ll have to drill the holes yourself. I didn’t in my case because my snorkel is a little high up and I had to cram everything into place. Not the best example. Then use the provided hose clamp to attached the black tube to the alloy elbow.

Step 7:

Bolt your inner fender liner back into the place and reinstall your airbox. Don’t forget your vacuum connectors and MAF!

Step 8:

Now’s the time you start making things look good. Take the final plastic piece of your intake pipe that bolts onto the header panel and toss it in the trash. Now you have to take the corrugated pipe attached to your intake and make it fit up to the black plastic tube. Use your duct tape, various pieces of PVC and the remaining hose clamps and make things work. I made things look a little awful but it works. Parts of an old airbox were used and lots of duct tape on top of the slip joints. Do things better than me if you plan on fording rivers.