BY: SHRAN

I just did this swap in my Ford Explorer, which had an M5OD. This is apparently not commonly done, and poorly documented, probably because C5’s are very hard to find these days, but here are some tips for the process:

C5 automatics: are found in 1984 Ford Bronco II’s and 1983-1984 Ford Ranger 4×4’s. Mine came from an 85.

Flex plate: use the one from the donor vehicle. You need the bolts for it too unless the 4.0 had an auto behind it already.

Flex plate spacer: chances are the factory one is junk. Sonnax part # 56000CS6.

Starter: use the one from the C5 donor. 84 Bronco II with auto if you need a new one. 4.0 starter didn’t fit in my block plate or line up with the bolt holes

Starter solenoid: the factory 4.0 one will work but MUST be rewired for the older starter, which requires a new positive battery cable and new starter power cable.

Engine block plate: (plate between engine and trans) can be from any 80’s RBV with an auto, and a 2.8, 2.9. Mine came from a 91 Ranger with 2.9 and A4LD.

Trans cooling lines/cooler: I used the ones from the C5 donor and plumbed directly into a large cooler from a 94 F150, bypassing the radiator. The factory steel lines fit perfectly around the 4.0 oil pan and bend up right in front of the radiator where they need to be.

Shifter: Needs to be custom or aftermarket. The factory 85 Bronco II shift linkage doesn’t fit my Explorer, not even close.

Drivelines: The C5 is approximately 5″ shorter than an M5OD, so your front driveline needs to be that much shorter, and the rear, that much longer. I used the rear half of a 91 Ranger extended cab driveshaft which is 48″ long and shortened it rather than make my Explorer shaft longer.

Kickdown cable/rod: I have not figured this out yet but apparently Lokar makes a cable kickdown which may work since the kickdown rod from the donor vehicle will not work.

Neutral Safety Switch I am also leaving this disabled on mine for the time being, but this really should be hooked up. Easy to splice into either the A4LD switch or clutch pedal switch.

Dipstick tube The factory C5 dipstick tube works great and comes up right next to the 4.0 coil pack, BUT, there’s nothing to bolt it onto the engine with. I took a piece of 3/4″ steel flat stock and twisted it, drilled two holes, and bolted it into the passenger side head with a 3/8″ course thread bolt and a 1/2″ nut spacer, then got it angled correctly to line up with the tab on the dipstick tube.

Discussion:

C5 behind 4.0 tech tips | The Ranger Station