One more 2wd 98 coil spring 5.0 swap.

[Jbrown1238]

Most of my gaskets and parts arrived this week to mount the heads and the oil pump & pick up tube. I am still waiting on the water pump and timing cover seal.



Before the heads are installed the piston to valve clearance needs to be checked. I started by cleaning the #1 piston surface and placing a small amount of modeling clay over the valve reliefs.



I disassembled two used lifters and flipped the internals upside down and then reassembled each. This allowed the lifters to behave as though they were at full pressure. Then I torqued down the right side cylinder head with a new gasket and installed the intake and exhaust valve train for the #1 cylinder.





I rotated the crank for three full cycles and removed the valve train and cylinder head so the modeling clay was exposed. I cut a section of clay on the intake side and measured that section with a digital caliper to make sure it was at least .080. Then I repeated the procedure on the exhaust side to make sure there was at least .100 of clearance. Both the intake and exhaust were well within spec. Now the heads can be permanently installed with new gaskets and fasteners.



While the heads were drying after being cleaned and prepped for installation I flipped the engine upside down on the stand and installed the ARP oil pump shaft, oil pump, and oil pump pick up tube.





Once that process was complete I returned my focus to the cylinder heads. I set the new Fel Pro 9333 head gasket in place and set the cylinder head down on the dowels. Then I applied ARP Moly Lube to the top fasteners and Permatex Sealer to the bottom fasteners. I first torqued each fastener to 70 lbs by proper sequence and then stepped up to the specified torque value for each.







Once the cylinder heads were secured I decided to change out the engine plate fasteners for ARP pieces.



Now I hope the timing cover and water pump gaskets come on Monday so I can button up this part of the assembly process. It looks like another cool to cold and wet week so I may just keep moving and install the oil pan, upper and lower intake, and front accessory brackets before moving on to color sanding the cab.

 

[Jbrown1238]

I went to install the oil pan yesterday but discovered that it would not clear the new pick up tube. A quick check revealed that Advance Auto Parts provided me with an incorrect item. The new pick up tube should be in next Tuesday. After permanently installing the timing cover and water pump I decided to mock up a few other items just to make sure I did have everything needed and that each piece fit correctly. I went ahead and attached the oil pan and valve covers, along with the upper and lower intake. The valve covers and upper/lower intake will need to come off so the pushrods can be measured and the rockers shimmed.

 

[RangerSVT]

Beautiful, just beautiful...

SVT

 

[Jbrown1238]

Beautiful, just beautiful...

SVT

Thank you, it is getting exciting now! I can't wait to set this in place for a test fit. That is still a month or so away.

 

[Lil-Pony]

Doesnt one of the motor mounts or plates have to be modified?

 

[Jbrown1238]

Doesnt one of the motor mounts or plates have to be modified?

I still need to pull the spacer out of the driver side motor mount. The plates should be fine although there may be some small clearance issues with the Torque Monster headers. It looked a little close when I held them in place.

 

[Jbrown1238]

The new oil pump pick up tube didn’t come in today so I decided to move forward with some more mock up. Even though many of these parts will need to be removed for clearance when the engine is installed I still want to be positive I have the correct parts and everything fits together properly. I mounted the front accessory brackets, alternator, power steering reservoir, cam sensor, crank sensor, idler pulleys, tensioner pulley, and the Torque Monster Headers.





The right side header fit but there was some interference issue with the engine plate. A couple washers under the plate corrected the issue for now. I am going to wait to decide if I want to clearance the engine plate or raise the engine slightly with a permanent spacer. A forum member from another site working on a similar set up claimed that the oil pan didn’t clear the steering rack without a spacer. If I have the same problem I will add the spacer and not worry about clearancing the engine plate. If not I will probably go ahead and clearance the engine plate.









The left side header fit without issue. It looks like changing spark plugs should be fairly easy going through the wheel well. That is how I changed them on my first V8 Ranger but it had Tri Y headers and I wasn’t sure how this set up would be.

 

[onlyme]

Coming along very nicely, can't wait to see that engine in it's new home, between the fenders of the Ranger.

 

[Jbrown1238]

Coming along very nicely, can't wait to see that engine in it's new home, between the fenders of the Ranger.

You and I both!! I am going to mock up 99% of it on the engine stand but I plan to test fit it in the engine compartment in the next few weeks.

 

[Jbrown1238]

While I am sorting out the pushrod situation I am continuing to mock up a few finishing touches on the engine. Items like a new EGR Tube and EGR valve, OEM Motorcraft spark plug wires (not shown here), power steering pump, and water pump pulley (not shown here). I swapped out the incorrect oil pump pick up tube that would not clear the oil pan for an OEM piece and then double checked the clearance to the pan. Once the clearance was dialed in I went ahead and sealed up the bottom end and torqued down the ARP oil pan fasteners.

I picked out a few pieces that will need to go to the media blaster next week. Leaf springs, water pump pulley, heater tube, coil pack bracket, and fuel tank brackets. I had the drive shaft included but set it aside as it looks like it may be too short for this application. The power brake booster is included in the photo but will not be media blasted. It only needs to be scuffed down and then primed and painted before being installed.



***UPDATE***

Got the pieces back from the media blaster.




I rotated the crank so the first cylinder was at the bottom of the stroke and both valves were closed. I marked the top of the intake valve and the exhaust valve with a Sharpie in preparation to check the rocker pattern and to see if a different length pushrod will be required (I plan to use new ones even if the OEM length is correct). While tightening down the rocker arms I noticed that I went all the way to the torque spec before the pushrod felt drag. It would still spin easily with little to no drag but did tighten up a bit after the motor was turned over once. The valve train assembly currently consists of the following, New Ford Racing Lifters, new Comp Cam, OE pushrods, OE Rockers, GT40P heads with OE valves. The tops of the valve stems were machined and the heads were decked a couple thousands. At this point it looks like the OE pushrod length is too short. I ordered a pushrod checker and I will measure for the required length when it arrives. I did read that the Ford Racing Lifters are slightly shorter than the OE Explorer lifters but I have not compared them side by side yet. I am not sure if it is a shorter set of lifters, a smaller base circle on the cam, or something else in the combination that could be contributing to the issue with pushrod length. As I mentioned early in the thread, this is my first engine build and I am no expert. Any thoughts or opinions from you guys would be appreciated and seriously considered.





The rocker pattern is hitting right in the middle of the valve stem but I am still concerned about the pushrod length. I will feel better once it has been measured correctly and another pattern test can be completed with a correct length push rod.





While waiting for the tool to arrive I moved forward with test fitting a few things.







A few days ago I managed to get the power brake booster primed, sanded, and painted Satin black. Then I went ahead and installed it on the firewall of the truck and attached the brake master cylinder.







I also picked up a new bottle of Norton Liquid Ice and the sand paper needed to color sand the cab. I decided to first scuff the paint lightly with 600 grit wet, then 1000 grit wet, and then 2000 grit wet. Once that process is complete I will go ahead and buff the paint with the Liquid Ice. I usually never drop down to 600 grit but I want to cut this quick and get it “really, really flat”. I will normally go with a two step process on my paint projects, first 1000 grit then on to 2000 grit. But I put three heavy coats of clear on this truck and the sides got a double heavy coat on the last pass. The cab and doors took a full gallon of color (two gallons of “sprayable” material) and just over a gallon of clear. I am pretty sure it will stop a .38 round! : )

I currently have a bit of a cold but hope to get started on the color sanding during the work week in a few days if the nice weather holds out.

 

[oddball101]

Good lord, the Virgin Mary would be proud to take a seat' in that thing when you're finished! Looks fantastic man. Makes me feel kind of bad because I can't even think about looking under certain parts of my front end without getting dirty.

 

[Jbrown1238]

Good lord, the Virgin Mary would be proud to take a seat' in that thing when you're finished! Looks fantastic man. Makes me feel kind of bad because I can't even think about looking under certain parts of my front end without getting dirty.

Thank you for the kind words. Don't worry it will be dirty down under soon after it hits the road.

 

[Jbrown1238]

Several weeks ago my son and I mocked up the 3:55 ring and pinion gear set in the 8.8 housing and collected the information/measurements needed for the gear alignment. The shims were selected, measured, and the right and left side pieces were placed in separate zip lock bags until needed. The pinion gear went back to Gainesville with my son to have a new bearing pressed on now that the mock up is complete.



I also decided to add a rear end girdle mainly for the drain hole but also a little for the “cool” factor. I don’t think the little 306 will require the added support out back but it can’t hurt.







The 31 spline Moser axles and wheel studs arrived just in time for final assembly. I was excited to see these show up as they are the first brand new axles I have ever purchased.







I also picked up 2 quarts of Mobile 1 Synthetic w75-140 gear oil and a new crush sleeve. The crush sleeve in the Ford Racing 8.8 kit was used during mock up and needed to be replaced.



I cleaned the inside of the housing a while back and lightly oiled it for storage but decided to wash it down again so it would be fresh and dust free for all the new parts. New pinion bearing races were installed prior to mock up.







All it needs now is just a quick blast with compressed air to dissipate the water, a once over with spray lubricant, and then bagged until needed.

 

[Jbrown1238]

I really need a shop press and a little more space. The small 12 x 12 barn is filling up quick leaving no area to work without shuffling things around. I ended up using a ball joint tool to press the wheel studs into the axles. It is times like this that you really appreciate that replacement warranty offered on all Craftsman tools!



Once the studs were in place the ends of the axles received a quick shot of clear coat to help fight the onset of rust.



Now that all the parts have arrived and have been cleaned the first step is to install the axle bearings and seals. The ends of the housing were covered when it was media blasted so they will need a little touch up before the rear end is installed in the vehicle. In fact with all the thrashing done during mock up the entire assembly will need a light two coat respray.



Then the pinion seal is pressed into place.



Next step is to install the pinion gear, pinion bearings, crush sleeve, etc., and set pinion bearing preload. (Sorry, missed that photo).

The 8.8 differential has been soaking in gear oil for a few weeks to help keep corrosion at bay. Now it is time to fish it out of the bucket and install it in the housing. It is carefully loaded into place with the corresponding left and right side pieces.





After the main caps are set and torqued to the desired value the axles are slid into place and the c clips installed.





The pin is gently tapped in with a small hammer followed by the locking bolt.



Now the diff girdle. I decided to change out the stock black fasteners for stainless pieces. I just thought it looked a little better.





All that is left is adding the fluid.

 

[RangerSVT]

A heart surgeon would be jealous of your cleanliness. Nice work...

SVT