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Hey there fellow TRS users, its been awhile since ive gotten on here but hopefully i can get this figured out.. My truck has a 5.5 superlift drop bracket setup on front, the coils have begun to sag a little and my tires are wearin on the inside. i noticed my camber bushing were turned...

im practically done with my 4x4 to 2wd switch, im going to turn use my dana 35 ends and build a set of extended beams.. but for the time being the front feels like a damn sled, and i figure if i take out the front PIG assembly with the shafts it should help a little right?? the beams are super...

i had mine rebuilt about 3 months ago and it has 2,000 miles on it, NO leaks and shifts are nice and smooth. i have the paper work for it, and recipt if you have a m5od 4x4 i would be happy to trade you (my plans of goin 2wd are done and i want my 4x4 back since im workin up in the snow. can...

im lokin to change my ac over to an air compressor for offroading, also i am having fuel issues.. i replaced my fuel filter awhile back and nothing really happend, then i went for a auto to manual swap but i kept the auto harness and ECU.. the electrical could cause a problem?? or would it...

3m taped a ford oval on the rear diff also put window screen stuff on the back window for tint and heat control what does all this mean?? i know i have 4:10 stock gears, but does that 28 before the april 95 mean i have a dana 35/28 hybrid ttb>>??

i wish http://fresno.craigslist.org/cto/1346166091.html

i have a rebuilt m5od r1 for a 3.0 v6 vulcan 2wd, i want a 4wd trans. will tarde straight across looking to trade or if you have a tail housing and main shaft ill buy it from you!!

i know i have to replace the mainshaft and housing.. is this it? do all syncros, gears, and bearing go back on the same? if you can find pics of taking apart and puting it back together that would be awsome and greatly appreciated!?!?

theres alot more variables to to breaking axles and what "YOU" can use, what types of driving you do(rocks, mud, street, dry dirt) and what kind of positions you put urself in.. also on how heavy you are on the throttle. i would say 35's to be safe, but there are a couple of guys here in trs...

im getting a job at a local ski resort(sierra summit/china bowl) this winter... Now el nino's comin back so were going to have a crazy snow season, problem is i dont have 4wd and my tires and practically bald. i saw the studs that are able to be inserted into the tires rubber, i have bias ply...

i dont want the bulky a/c under the hood anymore(dosent work in the first place) but i like having heat during the winter cause i snowboard alot. what options do i have?

i cant firgure out how to tell

im going to get a code reader today and just wanted to ask and make sure before i buy the wrong thing

Heres the good side! [/IMG] Now heres the nasty side :shok:

later down the road id rather spend 2,000$ on somthing worth while then rebuilding my shit ass 3.0. i live in california tho! ive heard many thing like if your truck is a say 1995 then the motor must be from a 1993-1997. or HAS to be the same year cause of smog reasons. can anyone shine...

lo pro tires, high reving engine with tourqe to keep em spinnin. and a 4.10 or higher gear range. stay away from 4.56's or lower

4th gear is the only gear in the m5od that is directly on the main shaft(the quitest) all the others run on a different shaft so its normal to hear a little somethin on each gear

theres quite a bit of oil on either side of my 3.0 v6, fresh oil!! i want to save my engine before anything worse happends, what do you guys think it could be?

i dont understand this, when i have my truck facing upwards on a slope it dosent leak out the rear main. but when its facing downwards(the rear main higher than the front) it leaks like crazy/ im sooo frustrated with this truck i want to pin it till i throw a rod!! AAAHHHH

locally i hope?