1.7:1 roller rockers & 5.0L hydraulic roller lifters

[Gotta_gofast]

First off, this is concerning my 1993 Ranger 3.0L (original engine). I've heard from conflicting sources that my truck is equipped with the roller cam and also that it is still a flat tappet. If the truck has a hydraulic roller cam/lifters then I would like to pursue the following set up.

Purchase 12 summit racing brand hydraulic roller lifters part number SUM-HT220 (told these will fit). I say this because the truck just turned the 100,000 mile marker and I'm afraid the factory lifters are going to be too soft, thus loosing the feel needed to set the roller rockers. (Please correct me if I'm wrong).

Next, I would love to pick up the Rogue Roller Rocker set from stuffforyourranger.com for the truck. Tapping holes isn't a sweat and setting the valve train isn't too bad for me, either. But I'm worried that I will be "maxing" my computer's ability to safely control the engine with this set up as I already upgraded the truck with JBA headers and a ported '98 upper and lower manifold/56mm BBK throttle body and CAI. Will I need to have the computer reflashed... because I'm not looking to spend $400+ on a chip and then the dyno time invested just for these mods.

I have a lot more experience with carbureted engines than I do with injected engines. I'd love to learn, and I'm using the 3.0L as a learning platform. Anyways, what your thoughts on the future project?

 

[MrE_Powers]

go over to the 3.0 section at ranger power sports the forum connected with stuff for your ranger. then you may find your self wanting a set. after reading the thread i think stickied over these set. i bought a set and how ever i ended up selling it because i kept putting it off and then a want for a better mig welder came up and they became an instant 200$ cash

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

you have a hydraulic roller cam. i see no reason to install aftermarket lifters along with your roller rockers if your staying with stock springs. the stock lifters would probably be fine even with stiffer springs.

you dont need to drill and tap the rocker pedistals to install rollers. you just need to change the 5.0's SAE bolts out for the 3.0's metric ones.

your current mods are within the range of the PCM to compensate for...however, the 3.0's stock fuel delivery capacity leaves something to be desired...particularly in the injector flow range. i wouldnt do anything without first getting some wide band O2 readings, but you might benifit from bumping the fuel pressure up a few lbs to increase the effective flow ratings of your injectors. if fuel starvation is a problem with your setup, bumping the fuel pressure should be more than enough to correct it and it saves you from having to replace the injectors.

 

[rurouni20xx]

hell after the intake mods and headers id be looking for an o2 reading just make sure your not lean already, not that the factory narrowbands couldnt compensate but it never hurts to check. by letting the engine breathe even more w/ higher lift you will def want to doublecheck your afrs and like sludge said a minor fuel pressure bump should take care of you. if you decided to port the heads id look into injectors tho since bumping your fp too much will throw off how accurate your injectors are causing flooding and overly rich mix at low rpm. the roller lifters i dont see u needing but it never hurts to look into them i suppose. the 1.7 rockers are a bolt on mod like everyone else said, but if you wait a while i talked to morana the other day and they are working on 1.8s...

 

[Gotta_gofast]

I don't know if I'd want to run 1.8:1 roller rockers. I don't want to exceed the PCM's ability to properly control the engine.

I completely forgot about installing a wideband oxygen sensor! In the event I'm running a hair lean after the install, what brand/pressure range regulator should be installed? Also, what brand wideband O2 sensor have you had luck with?

Concerning the lifters. I'm afraid the lifters are going to be too mushy, as in I will loose that "feel" when setting the preload. I'll save myself the cash (and put it toward a wideband!) and reuse the stock ones.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

he isnt going to make more power n/a than the stock injectors w/an adjustable fuel regulator can handle.

install an adjustable regulator and wideband, then go out and run the snot out of it. each time you pass, say, 13:1 at WOT, bump the pressure up a little more. once your nice and fat at WOT, your all set.

im not famillier with wideband brands...ive never owned one...i always use other peoples

 

[rurouni20xx]

diyautotune.com sells a set which i plan on running when i do the ems thing. ive heard good things about the aem widebands but pricy, my personal fav w/ bikes is the wideband commander marketed by dynojet since it plugs right into the lcd screen and your power commander and ignition module on the bikes that ive tuned when a dyno was unavail. basically id get a wideband that is from a well used company that has a gage so you can read whats going on while driving and make realtime adjustments. a datalogger would be awesome but again pricy. i want my trk to scream like a bike being fkd w/ a tire iron so im going to wait on the 1.8s but i see your concern since its a stock trim motor. an adjustable fpr (aem sells one and ive seen a few on summit) that you can adjust w/ a screwdriver and a fp gage should help you. when your driving and you see your overall lean just bump the fp a click or two and drive it again til you pretty much get it right across the board, will prob take a few clicks and tries but its not that dif really. good luck and am looking forward to feedback on this one.

 

[Gotta_gofast]

Well, taxes are coming so I should be recieving a big fat check soon. Like to get the roller rockers installed. The fuel pressure regulator and Wideband sound like they have a place in my plan... I'd like to research both of them first.

 

[rurouni20xx]

personally ive never owned one ive used one or two but my fav is the one thats installed on the dyno for obvious reasons...lol

 

[Gotta_gofast]

Well, I don't really care about watching a number while I drive all the time so maybe I can find a friend who's got one and borrow it for a day or two just to dial in the fuel pressure. $300 is a lot for what I'm lookin to spend! lol, the damn rockers are less than that.

 

[Gotta_gofast]

What would you guys recommend for a replacement adjustable fuel pressure regulator? The Ranger should have a set pressure between 25-35psi with the key on/engine off. I'd like to find one that regulates from 25+ then.

 

[rurouni20xx]

id start w/ aem, not sure how it will bolt on if it will bolt on, the prob is finding one that will go to our fuel rails. also im not sure how you would get around the vacuum fitting to be honest, when vacuum increases it allows the fuel pressure to increase from what i can tell, still scratching my head on how to get around that.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

an adjustable fuel pressure regulator doesnt get around that. you adjust an adjustable regulator with the vacuum line disconnected and capped. this sets the base pressure.

example, if your factory pressure is set at 30 PSI at idle and you install an AFPR set to 40psi, you fuel pressure will average 10 PSI higher at all vacuum readings.

ive never installed an AFPR on a 3.0...so i dont know of any (if any) bolt on. i thought i remember hearing something about a 5.0 regulator working...but youd have to look into it (fords FPR's are all very similar). if nothing else you can add a universal regulator in your return line.

 

[rurouni20xx]

well i never installed one on a vacuum system b4, hondas you just bump the skrew and it adjusts it overall.

 

[Gotta_gofast]

Yep, looking at the 5.0L mustang adjustable regulators. Has both a return line and vacuum port. I'm going to locate one stock from the junk hard to compare before I commit to a purchase of an adjustable one, though.