1987 Ford Bronco II XLT 2.9L V6 manual trans 5 speed OD 2wd, no spark ignition coil & module have power..

[Battenfield1997]

Fixed, it was pickup coil inside Distributor. I replaced the whole distributor & reset timing, drives beautifully now.
I'll leave this article up for anyone who might have an similar problem
My truck has never ever not started on 1st revolution of crank. I was in a drive-thru line and I stalled it not paying attention to it being in 2nd. After that incident, I've went through the usual suspect parts replacing them. I've tried new Ignition control module, new Ignition coil, new ECC Relay, and painful process of tracing down every wire related to Ignition and all fusible links were good along with diodes. Only thing I haven't done is replace the ecu, does anyone know what might possibly be my no spark problem..

 

[Battenfield1997]

I've changed Ignition control module, Ignition coil, ECC Relay, Distributor Cap and Rotor, Wireset, and painstakingly have been through all inline fuses related to Ignition which were all good. Still no spark, anyone have any ideas?

 

[franklin2]

See if one of the small wires going to the coil has power on it when you turn the key to run. Should be the red/lightgreen wire.

 

[Battenfield1997]

See if one of the small wires going to the coil has power on it when you turn the key to run. Should be the red/lightgreen wire.

Thanks, yeah I checked all of the wiring it turned out to be the pickup coil inside my distributor. I just got it running today.

 

[bcschief]

That was my first thought after reading your 2nd post. I once worked with a drivability tech who made a test box using a distributor connector and 2 LEDs and a 9-volt battery and put the LEDs and the battery in a small plastic box and wired it up. You plugged it into the distributor and using a remote starter button you would turn the engine over and see if the pip light flashed indicating the pickup was good. Another way on the later trucks with check engine lights is crank the engine with the key and see if the check engine light goes out while cranking, if it does than the PCM is seeing the PIP signal meaning the sensor is most likely ok.

 

[kodogtwh]

Hook an LED(crucial) test light to ground, and probe the pins on the spout connector on the ECU side. (unplugged shorting bar) Crank the engine and watch the light while cranking. If you have nothing, you have a issue with input to the ECU. Hall effect in the dizzy that connects to the TFI module, TFI module itself, ECU itself, ECU connections.

If you have a flashing light while cranking, that verifies that the ECU is getting what it needs (power, ground, PIP) and is sending an ignition signal to the TFI module. After that, check output on the coil connector. test light hooked between the two terminals. If it flashes, the coil has power and control, and if the coil isnt firing, the coil is bad. If you don't have flashing, and the positive side of the coil is powered, and you have all the inputs to the TFI module (hall effect works, pip signal works, its receiving a SPOUT signal, It has power and ground) then you have a bad tfi module. Fish all the Motorcraft stuff out of the trash can, as well. Up until I converted my truck to a DIS, the '87 stamped TFI module was going strong.