1988 2.9l sputtering

[Danny G]

I got a similar issue to this was this ever resolved?

 

[rusty ol ranger]

I got a similar issue to this was this ever resolved?

Might wanna start your own thread. This ones 7 years old. Youll get better answers

 

[KP650]

Yes MAF sensor go with OEM!!

 

[Danny G]

Might wanna start your own thread. This ones 7 years old. Youll get better answers

Yep was gonna make my own but was hoping maybe a chance this guy was still on here and got his issue resolved. Know its a long shot after so many years lo.

 

[Danny G]

Yes MAF sensor go with OEM!!

Wouldnt map or maf sensor throw a code if not working properly?

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Wouldnt map or maf sensor throw a code if not working properly?

Sometimes.

But the sensor could still be in the parameters that the ECM thinks is ok...but its not ok.

EEC IV isnt the most accurate

 

[Danny G]

Sometimes.

But the sensor could still be in the parameters that the ECM thinks is ok...but its not ok.

EEC IV isnt the most accurate

They are about 50 to replace right now from what ive looked at. Im still worried it could be one of my pumps and my i know my tank isnt the cleanest. I dropped it previously to fix my float but it was full and i didnt want to empty and clean it. Even testing fuel pressure wouldnt tell me if map or pump is the issue cause either one could restrict fuel pressure right?

 

[rusty ol ranger]

They are about 50 to replace right now from what ive looked at. Im still worried it could be one of my pumps and my i know my tank isnt the cleanest. I dropped it previously to fix my float but it was full and i didnt want to empty and clean it. Even testing fuel pressure wouldnt tell me if map or pump is the issue cause either one could restrict fuel pressure right?

MAP has nothing to do with fuel pressure. It reads vacuum off the intake and gives that input to the ECM to decide on ignition timing, injector pulse, etc.

Fuel pressure problems are caused by a weak/dying pump, plugged filter, plugged tank sock, or stuck injectors

 

[Shran]

Yes MAF sensor go with OEM!!

Does your 1988 have a MAF sensor with CA emissions or a MAP sensor like the rest of them?

I fixed a couple trucks that had erratic or no idle situations with new MAP (with a P, not an F) sensors. Usually from what I saw a bad MAP will cause it to not idle at all, you have to sit and feather the accelerator. Otherwise fairly normal while moving. Bad/dirty MAF will usually idle by itself and drive but with poor throttle response.

 

[KP650]

Sorry I meant TFI module. I was having sputtering issues. Went through everything (Fuel, TPS, IAC, MAP, ETC). Previous owner had an aftermarket distributor with aftermarket TFI module (grey color). I installed Ford TFI module (black). Fixed my issue. I have 1988 Ranger XLT V6. I did not have ANY check engine codes. That made it difficult to pinpoint.

 

[Danny G]

Does your 1988 have a MAF sensor with CA emissions or a MAP sensor like the rest of them?

I fixed a couple trucks that had erratic or no idle situations with new MAP (with a P, not an F) sensors. Usually from what I saw a bad MAP will cause it to not idle at all, you have to sit and feather the accelerator. Otherwise fairly normal while moving. Bad/dirty MAF will usually idle by itself and drive but with poor throttle response.

I have an 88 that has a cali ecm but no maf to my knowledge just the map. Could the ecm be my issue? My old ecm melted and the company told me this was the correct ecm with cali emissions.

Sorry I meant TFI module. I was having sputtering issues. Went through everything (Fuel, TPS, IAC, MAP, ETC). Previous owner had an aftermarket distributor with aftermarket TFI module (grey color). I installed Ford TFI module (black). Fixed my issue. I have 1988 Ranger XLT V6. I did not have ANY check engine codes. That made it difficult to pinpoint.

I replaced the tfi already to try that fix but its not ford. The car idles fine and in neutral it revs just fine. In gear after a few mins it boggs down and cant go over id guess 1500 to 2000rpm. No tach on these things makes it kinda hard to guess.

 

[Shran]

I have an 88 that has a cali ecm but no maf to my knowledge just the map. Could the ecm be my issue? My old ecm melted and the company told me this was the correct ecm with cali emissions.

I replaced the tfi already to try that fix but its not ford. The car idles fine and in neutral it revs just fine. In gear after a few mins it boggs down and cant go over id guess 1500 to 2000rpm. No tach on these things makes it kinda hard to guess.

I didn't recall any '88 trucks having a MAF, seems like very specific 2.9 trucks with CA emissions had a MAF in one or two years but I may be wrong. Everything else had MAP.

Could the ECM be your issues - certainly - but what else have you tried besides the TFI module? Does it throw any codes? What do your spark plugs look like? There are a lot of other possibilities, bogging down when warm under load would indicate a lean condition to me. Low fuel pressure from a weak pump/clogged filter could cause that... timing could be off... any of the various engine sensors could contribute if they have failed.... etc.

Why did the ECM melt?

 

[Danny G]

I didn't recall any '88 trucks having a MAF, seems like very specific 2.9 trucks with CA emissions had a MAF in one or two years but I may be wrong. Everything else had MAP.

Could the ECM be your issues - certainly - but what else have you tried besides the TFI module? Does it throw any codes? What do your spark plugs look like? There are a lot of other possibilities, bogging down when warm under load would indicate a lean condition to me. Low fuel pressure from a weak pump/clogged filter could cause that... timing could be off... any of the various engine sensors could contribute if they have failed.... etc.

Why did the ECM melt?

So far tested vacuum got 18, replaced tfi, ecm replaced, fuel filter. I found some junk in the fuel bowl/reservoir and it was somewhat plugged up so i bypassed it for now with a high flow filter. I need to get a fuel pressure tester with the correct shrader valve connection to test fuel pressure as well but i haven't found one that works yet for a decent price. I think that's my next step and get some info to see if i can confirm it is a fuel issue. Only the 2nd car ive worked on with a dizzy so ive never timed one myself before and dont have the tools. Someone also mentioned the fuel pressure regulator. Mine pulls vacuum and doesn't show signs of leaking so im guessing its functioning but not sure exactly how to confirm. Can i manually apply vacuum to this to test fuel flow changing?

 

[Shran]

You want to see about 35psi fuel pressure at idle and it should jump up to 40psi ish at low vacuum (when you blip the throttle.) Way over or under those specs will cause problems. I had one Ranger that would idle smooth all day but would backfire and spit/sputter if you tried to drive it - issue was a filthy gas tank and the pump was sucking up dirt.

You can tell if the FPR is bad by pulling the vacuum line off and seeing if any gas dribbles out after you shut the engine off. It'll usually be hard to start when the engine is warm too.

Checking timing is easy if you get a light, pull the SPOUT connector and see if your light pulses on the crank pulley when the marker on it reads 10 degrees BTC. That's your base timing, plug the SPOUT back in and check it again, it may change and should change a bit. If you rev up the engine and it DOESN'T change, that's when you may have a problem. Fairly unlikely but sometimes the hall effect sensor in the distributor can go out and cause weird problems. Just something to check.

 

[Danny G]

You want to see about 35psi fuel pressure at idle and it should jump up to 40psi ish at low vacuum (when you blip the throttle.) Way over or under those specs will cause problems. I had one Ranger that would idle smooth all day but would backfire and spit/sputter if you tried to drive it - issue was a filthy gas tank and the pump was sucking up dirt.

You can tell if the FPR is bad by pulling the vacuum line off and seeing if any gas dribbles out after you shut the engine off. It'll usually be hard to start when the engine is warm too.

Checking timing is easy if you get a light, pull the SPOUT connector and see if your light pulses on the crank pulley when the marker on it reads 10 degrees BTC. That's your base timing, plug the SPOUT back in and check it again, it may change and should change a bit. If you rev up the engine and it DOESN'T change, that's when you may have a problem. Fairly unlikely but sometimes the hall effect sensor in the distributor can go out and cause weird problems. Just something to check.

Well i was fearing it may be the tank hahaha didnt want to drop it. Did it once before to fix the float and saw some stuff in there but was hoping i wouldn't have to drain it. Sounds like you had the same issue im having now with that pump and tank though. My tanks pretty rusty i think ill look into a plastic tank so it doesn't get rust belted anymore. Should I replace the tanks pump as well to be on the safe side? Ill at least get a new screen for it. I can at least wait for inline pump since its alot easier access