RobbieD
2.9l Mafia
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2007
- Messages
- 3,950
- Reaction score
- 3,559
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Georgia
- Vehicle Year
- 1984,1990,1994
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Transmission
- Manual
- 2WD / 4WD
- 2WD
- My credo
- Toonces drives a Ranger . . . . just not very well.
Your second picture, from (somewhat questionable!) memory the wire colors should be:View attachment 87483View attachment 87484
Here's how it's laying out. WIth this, the truck does fire on ignition and run, so that's better.
Clock works, back light works, but clock radio does not work, radio does not turn on.
Using my tiny 12v battery I could activate the motor for the cassette player, so I know it has the ability to function.
It may just be that this
1 Lt Grn / Yel Constant +12V power
3 Yel / Blk Switched +12V power (ignition switch RUN and ACC positions)
4 Lt Blu / Red Rheostated instrument illumination- goes through the light/dark control, + voltage differing levels
5 Org / Blk Non-rheostated illumination- +12 volts with lights on (dims the digital display when the lights are on).
Do verify what's in your truck with a VOM, because again, that's from memory.
Speaker colors didn't get burned as deeply into my grey matter- most years used pink and orange base colors with different color stripes, but the "oddball" wire colors in your first picture does kind of ring a bell, as in I think that they're stock, and not aftermarket.
For speakers, an old trick is to solder a pair of short wire leads onto a 1.5 volt flashlight battery, and use it to momentarily "pop" the speakers. A VOM can show that two wires are connected at a speaker coil, but "popping" a speaker with no more than a volt and-a-half will 1) confirm that two wires a speaker pair 2) the location of the speaker and 3) the speaker's polarity (if the cone moves OUT, the battery polarity as applied is also the correct speaker polarity; if it moves IN, the battery polarity is backward).
Hope it helps, good luck!