1992 Ranger Fuse Panel Question

[carlwile]

Hi all, I cannot find an accurate fuse panel diagram for my 1992 Ranger 6 cyl 3.0 ext cab. I cannot find it even in my Chilton's; the one there is different. My radio and wipers began to be intermittent. They would work for a bit then quit. Well, I started fishing around in the panel box. All the fuses are good (have continuity). I think the wipers are on a 6A Circuit Breaker. I pulled it and am planning on buying another. Here's the funny thing. When I remove the circuit breaker, the radio works fine. When the CB is in, neither the radio nor wipers work. Can't get the wipers to work with or without it. Can anyone advise on this phenomenon and whether I am correct in thinking the wipers are on this CB? Also need a diagram if possible; Ford is no help before 1996. Thanks. -Carl

 

[trail B2]

I think the fuse panel info is only in the owners manual I have an original repair manual it's not in there.When I asked the dealer parts man he said the owners manual only.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Well if the one in my 91 owners manual is the same I can take a picture for you

 

[carlwile]

Update your thread with this new symptom. Maybe someone has a work-around that’ll help you get it running again.




Update your thread with this new symptom. Maybe someone has a work-around that’ll help you get it running again.

From: Carl
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 9:44 AM
To:
Subject: Re: RE: Click on these links

I feel stupid. Auto Zone, Advanced, and Pep didn't have it. Oreilly does tho. $15. Thanks for the advice. I thought about gear being bad, but truck was starting no problem. I turned the key backward toward ACC (a little harder than normal) and the key cylinder quit working all together. I didn't feel anything give way or snap, I'm thinking it's the cylinder itself. No reasons the gear mechanism would have just broke while I was experiencing only a wierd elecrtical problem linked to the key cylinder. If I had left it alone, it was working fine. All I had to do once the truck was running was bump the key and the power came on to the radio and wipers. Now, I fiddled with the key switch/cylinder, it it won't actuate at all.

On May 11, 2010,
> wrote:





Auto Parts store.



I’ve never done work in the column, so I can only rely on the links.



I liked the last link, for the Mustang. Should be the same.





Might be worth a trip to the junkyard. It does sound like the gear is bad, not necessarily the switch. Wish I could be more help.





From: Carl
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 9:26 AM
To:
Subject: Re: Click on these links



Ok, my cylinder (while in the RUN position) was very touchy and the radio/wiper power was intermittent. A few times, just wiggling the key, cut the truck off. So, I took column covers off and tried to get the cylinder out. I turned it back to ACC, but then I had no actuation from the cylinder at all. The ruck won't start and the key cylinder does nothing but turn now. The key unlocks it, but it just turns to and fro without actuating the ignition switch on the column. I read all the links below and it sounds like it could be (and this is what I thnk) the cylinder itself. Or, according to the links below it could be a broken gear or a bad ignition switch. What do you think? Oh yeah, what is an AP store?

On May 11, 2010, > wrote:

http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...gnition+switch





http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...gnition+switch





http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...gnition+switch



http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/5657/index.html





I’d get the switch elsewhere. $75 is steep for a $20 part available at any AP store.







From: Carl
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 8:44 AM
To:
Subject: Re: RE: RE: copied some more for you



Good call, circuit breaker ok. There was a bad ground on the wiper motor. But, I figured out what the real problem was. When I cranked the truck yesterday, I saw the radio clock/light come on briefly. But while the truck was running, no clock light and no wipers. I wiggled the ignition key, viola! Wipers and radio. Bad ignition cylinder/switch. I removed column covers and took a look. Do you know the best way to pull the lock/ignition cylinder out? Does it have something to do with tunring the key and then pushing a pin or release of some kind? Or, do you have to take the column apart? All the junk yards I called want to sell the whole column and a can get the ignition from a dealer for $75.

On May 11, 2010, > wrote:

Yes, continuity is closed.



These two circuits have G201 in common.

Ground 201 is located above the parking brake, looks like it’s pretty high up too, like 6-8” above the PB. About the same height as where the door harness splits out of the big harness.



That’s the first thing I’d check. Remove, sand it clean and reinstall that ground.





From: Carl
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2010 4:03 PM
To:
Subject: Re: RE: copied some more for you



You know, I have continuity on the old CB when it's in my hand; that's closed right? What is wierd was this. I first noticed that my radio was getting no power. I didn't check the wipers. Then the radio was intermittent (I fugured fuse was loose; so I checked them all). Anyway, it just so happens I changed my wiper blades the other day andfound out the wipers won't work. So, I put 2+2 together and it seems that for some reason the two problems are tied together. When I pulled the CB out, the radio works fine. I don't get it and I'm not sure why anything like that would happen. Would the wiper CB cause something like that in another system?

On May 10, 2010, > wrote:

I’d pull that CB and put a jumper in its place, see if that works, then fix whatever smokes.



…..actually, if you have an amp meter capability (most DMMs will read up to 10A), just put that in line instead of the CB; then you’ll KNOW how many amps it is pulling.



You could also monitor that CB and see if it is opening. Just need a regular volt meter for that (or a test lamp).



From: Carl
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2010 3:44 PM
To:
Subject: Re: copied some more for you



Yep, top of page 81-1 you sent me shows Fuse position 2, 6 am cb; as we discussed. I'm hoping it is just and not one of those protracted troubleshoots listed on the stuff you sent. Thanks.

 

[carlwile]

Ok, so far here is what I learned about the wiper/radio power problem. The key cylinder was faulty. Over time, I noticed that the cylinder would not stay to the rear (ACC). At times, without a key in it, it would make to door chime ring as though there were a key in it.

Anyway, after some checking, I cranked the truck and saw the radio light come on briefly. I wiggled the key while truck was running and power was restored to the wiper motor/pump and radio. So, the Hot In Run (HIR) position was not working. If I bumped the key while the truck was running, it would power the HIR position. It even sometimes turned the truck off. So, I turned the key to and fro (a bit hard to the rear, I might add) and now the key cylinder doesn't do anything. It locks and unlocks, but does not actuate the gear that eventually moves the ignition switch itself (down on the column).

When I was messing with the cylinder, I did not experience any resistance, not did I feel anything give way or snap/break. I'm hoping it is just the key lock/cylinder ($15 at Oreilly's). Anyone know how to get it out? I think it just has a retaining pin or latch.

 

[carlwile]

Also, just food for thought. In looking for a diagram for the fuse panel, I found that the 90 and 93 Rangers had the same schematics. So, I assumed that went for 91 and 92 as well. A junk yard guy said the columns and wiring (discussed above) is the same for Rangers from 89-94.

 

[carlwile]

A fix for ignition and intermittant power

Symptoms:
Key would not stay in ACC position.
Power to radio and wipers was intermittent.
All fuses and circuit breakers were good.
Manipulation of key would temporarily restore power to accessories while truck was running.
Key cylinder lock turned out to be good.
Transfer shaft down to ignition switch; operational.
Inspection of switch, found it to be faulty (see below).


Turns out, it was the ignition switch (the electrical mechanism) on the column. I removed the key cylinder and decided that it was fine. Then I re-inserted it and felt for movement of the transfer shaft down to the actual switch. It was moving fine. Inspection of the switch found it in three pieces. A simple fix, but a little hard to troubleshoot. Turns out that intermittent electrical problems associated with the Hot in Run position, are associated with these components.

Lessons learned:
Fuse panels and wiring for Rangers from 89-94 appear to be the same.
Columns for these years are also the same.
Key cylinder is removable via access port under the lock; simply turn key to RUN and depress pin through port.
Internal column gears can be evaluated by checking the movement of the transfer shaft located on the top of the column.
Intermittent power supply to accessories can be caused by ignition switch.
Switch can be completely destroyed (come apart) without notice or evidence of such until it comes apart completely and the physical ignition system fails.
Oreilly Auto parts is the only place I found a replacement key cylinder and keys ($15). Dealer wanted $75 and junk columns run about $100.

If you have a power problem when starting the truck (or while in RUN), check that switch!!!!!