1994 ranger voltage dropping

[Tristanranger]

Hey guys when I try to turn my brights on the lights will turn off and the voltage gauge will drop down. My + terminal was corroded so I put a new one and cleaned both terminals good, any help thanks

 

[ericbphoto]

Clean tight connections is the first thing to check. So, good job there.

You need to do some voltage testing or have your alternator tested. They sometimes get weak before failing completely. Basically, they sometimes lose 1 of the 3 "phases" generating power or it happens in the rectigier/regulator section.

If you have a voltmeter, check your battery first. It should be around 12.6 volts with engine nor running. If it's less than 12volts, your battery is getting old. Then, with enginevrunning, check voltage at the battery. Forvthe first couple minutes after starting, it should be close to 14.5 volts to replenish the battery from the energy used to start the engine. Then it should drop down at least to 14 volts, but anywhere between about 13.5 and 14. If it stays too high for too long, it can "cook" the battery and kill it. If it's not high enough, it can't recharge the battery. The alternator voltage must be higher than the battery voltage in order to put energy back into the battery.

@Ron D explains all this better. But do these checks and let us know what you have.

 

[Tristanranger]

Clean tight connections is the first thing to check. So, good job there.

You need to do some voltage testing or have your alternator tested. They sometimes get weak before failing completely. Basically, they sometimes lose 1 of the 3 "phases" generating power or it happens in the rectigier/regulator section.

If you have a voltmeter, check your battery first. It should be around 12.6 volts with engine nor running. If it's less than 12volts, your battery is getting old. Then, with enginevrunning, check voltage at the battery. Forvthe first couple minutes after starting, it should be close to 14.5 volts to replenish the battery from the energy used to start the engine. Then it should drop down at least to 14 volts, but anywhere between about 13.5 and 14. If it stays too high for too long, it can "cook" the battery and kill it. If it's not high enough, it can't recharge the battery. The alternator voltage must be higher than the battery voltage in order to put energy back into the battery.

@Ron D explains all this better. But do these checks and let us know what you have.

Well it was at 8 not running lol guessing my battery is shit

 

[scotts90ranger]

Charge the battery or jump start it, it could be the alternator as the engine will run down to like 7 volts when the relays don't have enough voltage to stay switched.

 

[Tristanranger]

Charge the battery or jump start it, it could be the alternator as the engine will run down to like 7 volts when the relays don't have enough voltage to stay switched.

So I charged it drove home 15 minutes let it sit for about 40 min and checked the voltage of the battery was 13 and started it and it went up to 14, but brights still shut off when pushed the switch back

 

[scotts90ranger]

How old is the battery? more than about 4 years and I would question it but if you take it to many of the auto parts stores they will put their battery load tester on it and see the health of the battery. I've seen them with good voltage but not able to carry a load at all, believe it's from corroded plates inside

It's either that or a bad connection somewhere...

 

[RonD]

Just a quick how it works
Battery's sole, and ONLY, purpose in a vehicle is to start the engine, period

Vehicle batteries are 12.8volt to 13volts brand new
12.5v after 3 years
12.3v after 5/6 years and time for a new battery
12.2v and lower is a failing battery
A battery must sit for at least 4 hours after charging before you test its voltage or you will see a FALSE higher voltage, so let it sit overnight to see its TRUE voltage

Alternators output 13.5v to 14.8volts, so once engine is started ALL electrics are using the higher Voltage, ALL electrics
And alternator voltage runs TO the Battery, because its a higher voltage than the battery and that keeps battery charged up for the next startup of the engine

In a 1996 Ranger/B-series the Alternator is connected to Battery Positive cable at the starter relay on the inner fender, often called starter solenoid
One of the larger posts on the relay will have the Battery Positive wire and several other wires with it, including the alternators B+ wire
Make sure these wires on that post are not corroded
ALL the electrics in the vehicle are powered thru this one post, engine on or off, ALL systems get power thru this one post


Yes, you need to keep the Positive and Negative battery cables clean
If either is not clean you will get the dreaded "click, click, click" when you try to start the engine

If there are electrical issues after startup then clean that starter relay post
And test alternator

Turn signal stalk, aka Multi-function switch, is one of the few "moving parts" in the electrical system, that and the Main Light switch
So BOTH will wear out
If turning on the bright headlights causes issues then I would suspect multi-function switch
Try the Flash-to-pass(pull stalk toward you) and see if you get the same issue, flash to pass uses a different power path inside the switch

 

[Tristanranger]

Just a quick how it works
Battery's sole, and ONLY, purpose in a vehicle is to start the engine, period

Vehicle batteries are 12.8volt to 13volts brand new
12.5v after 3 years
12.3v after 5/6 years and time for a new battery
12.2v and lower is a failing battery
A battery must sit for at least 4 hours after charging before you test its voltage or you will see a FALSE higher voltage, so let it sit overnight to see its TRUE voltage

Alternators output 13.5v to 14.8volts, so once engine is started ALL electrics are using the higher Voltage, ALL electrics
And alternator voltage runs TO the Battery, because its a higher voltage than the battery and that keeps battery charged up for the next startup of the engine

In a 1996 Ranger/B-series the Alternator is connected to Battery Positive cable at the starter relay on the inner fender, often called starter solenoid
One of the larger posts on the relay will have the Battery Positive wire and several other wires with it, including the alternators B+ wire
Make sure these wires on that post are not corroded
ALL the electrics in the vehicle are powered thru this one post, engine on or off, ALL systems get power thru this one post


Yes, you need to keep the Positive and Negative battery cables clean
If either is not clean you will get the dreaded "click, click, click" when you try to start the engine

If there are electrical issues after startup then clean that starter relay post
And test alternator

Turn signal stalk, aka Multi-function switch, is one of the few "moving parts" in the electrical system, that and the Main Light switch
So BOTH will wear out
If turning on the bright headlights causes issues then I would suspect multi-function switch
Try the Flash-to-pass(pull stalk toward you) and see if you get the same issue, flash to pass uses a different power path inside the switch

Thanks I will check it out tonight when I get home hasn’t been ran since Thursday night, I do know that pulling it towards also would do the same thing