- Joined
- Aug 7, 2007
- Messages
- 2,384
- Reaction score
- 39
- Points
- 48
- Location
- Michigan
- Vehicle Year
- 1984, 1997
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 302, 2.3
- Transmission
- Manual
- My credo
- If you're not making mistakes, you're not learning.
Original Poster: Captain Ledd
Difficulty: 3 out of 10
Time to install: 10-20 Minutes
Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.
Brief Explanation:
This is how you remove your gauge cluster to change the bulbs, replace it, or to get to the back of it for whatever reason.
Tools Needed:
- 7mm socket
- 8mm socket
- 5.5mm socket
- T20 Torx (optional - some 7mm)
- T15 Torx (optional - all 5.5mm)
- A small extension (might be useful in a few spots, but not necessary)
- Body panel remover tool (a wide flat bladed screwdriver or a pop sickle stick works good too)
Parts Needed: (If changing the bulbs out with stock bulbs)
- 6x #194 Series Bulb
- 16-18x #74 Series Bulb
-
LED replacement bulbs (and other bulb info):
Clicky here
-----------------------------------------------------------
STEP 1
There are 4 bolts along the bottom, 2 are in the open, 2 are holding the hood latch to the dash. There's some spring retainers holding the top part of the panel in. Just pull straight back and they should pop out.
4x 7mm (T20 Torx)
-----------------------------------------------------------
STEP 2
Remove the metal knee bolster panel
6x 8mm
-----------------------------------------------------------
STEP 3
Pull these 2 screws out and the 3 on the top part of the gage cluster
5x 7mm
-----------------------------------------------------------
STEP 4
Unscrew the 2 bolts holding the radio/HVAC fascia. They will be right above the HVAC control knobs. This is where the body panel remover tool comes in handy. you don't have to take the whole piece off, but pull it out just enough to get the next piece out.
2x 7mm
(yeah I know, I already removed the other piece, see next step)
-----------------------------------------------------------
STEP 5
Now remove the piece surrounding the gauge cluster so that it looks like this:
I don't think there's any spring retainers on this piece, but it does take some finagling to pull it out.
-----------------------------------------------------------
STEP 6
Unscrew the gauge cluster and pull it out. Unplug the wire harness(s) and/or speedometer cable if your speedometer is mechanically driven. These ones came off by hand really easy, didn't need to pry or anything.
4x 7mm
-----------------------------------------------------------
STEP 7
Now you can replace your light bulbs.
Black = #194 bulbs
Off White / Light Tan = smaller bulbs, #74 series
Silver = not bulbs, leave them alone
Red = THEFT light (already an LED, at least on mine)
TO REMOVE BULBS:
Twist counterclockwise, lefty loosie , unscrew like a standard bolt/screw, etc.
They may make a popping noise when they come out, but don't worry about it.
-----------------------------------------------------------
STEP 8
Reinstall in reverse order. after having done this I figure its a 10-15 minute job. It was stupid easy. Not at all like I have heard it was.
-----------------------------------------------------------
Optional
Now if your Ranger is finally past it's initial break in period (190,000 miles) like mine, there gets to be some crap behind the gages.
7x 5.5mm (T15 Torx)
The clear cover pulls off and you'll find something that should look like this:
Now as far as I could tell the clear piece does not separate from the black base that separates the gauge areas. I didn't particularly reef on it hard as I didn't want to break it. But there's plenty of room to get a paper towel and some Windex back behind there. I gave the gauge faces a wipe down with Windex too. I wouldn't use anything very harsh on them.
Also, if the clear piece is kind of scratched to the point where you can see it when it's in the truck (after many years of cleanings or use), try some Turtle Wax on it. Dries clear and should take care of any of the small imperfections (I don't think you could use it well on the inside of the clear plastic, but you're welcome to try it). It also works on scratched CD's
Now enjoy your nice, clean, well illuminated gauges!
Difficulty: 3 out of 10
Time to install: 10-20 Minutes
Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.
Brief Explanation:
This is how you remove your gauge cluster to change the bulbs, replace it, or to get to the back of it for whatever reason.
Tools Needed:
- 7mm socket
- 8mm socket
- 5.5mm socket
- T20 Torx (optional - some 7mm)
- T15 Torx (optional - all 5.5mm)
- A small extension (might be useful in a few spots, but not necessary)
- Body panel remover tool (a wide flat bladed screwdriver or a pop sickle stick works good too)
Parts Needed: (If changing the bulbs out with stock bulbs)
- 6x #194 Series Bulb
- 16-18x #74 Series Bulb
-
LED replacement bulbs (and other bulb info):
Clicky here
-----------------------------------------------------------
STEP 1
There are 4 bolts along the bottom, 2 are in the open, 2 are holding the hood latch to the dash. There's some spring retainers holding the top part of the panel in. Just pull straight back and they should pop out.
4x 7mm (T20 Torx)
-----------------------------------------------------------
STEP 2
Remove the metal knee bolster panel
6x 8mm
-----------------------------------------------------------
STEP 3
Pull these 2 screws out and the 3 on the top part of the gage cluster
5x 7mm
-----------------------------------------------------------
STEP 4
Unscrew the 2 bolts holding the radio/HVAC fascia. They will be right above the HVAC control knobs. This is where the body panel remover tool comes in handy. you don't have to take the whole piece off, but pull it out just enough to get the next piece out.
2x 7mm
(yeah I know, I already removed the other piece, see next step)
-----------------------------------------------------------
STEP 5
Now remove the piece surrounding the gauge cluster so that it looks like this:
I don't think there's any spring retainers on this piece, but it does take some finagling to pull it out.
-----------------------------------------------------------
STEP 6
Unscrew the gauge cluster and pull it out. Unplug the wire harness(s) and/or speedometer cable if your speedometer is mechanically driven. These ones came off by hand really easy, didn't need to pry or anything.
4x 7mm
-----------------------------------------------------------
STEP 7
Now you can replace your light bulbs.
Black = #194 bulbs
Off White / Light Tan = smaller bulbs, #74 series
Silver = not bulbs, leave them alone
Red = THEFT light (already an LED, at least on mine)
TO REMOVE BULBS:
Twist counterclockwise, lefty loosie , unscrew like a standard bolt/screw, etc.
They may make a popping noise when they come out, but don't worry about it.
-----------------------------------------------------------
STEP 8
Reinstall in reverse order. after having done this I figure its a 10-15 minute job. It was stupid easy. Not at all like I have heard it was.
-----------------------------------------------------------
Optional
Now if your Ranger is finally past it's initial break in period (190,000 miles) like mine, there gets to be some crap behind the gages.
7x 5.5mm (T15 Torx)
The clear cover pulls off and you'll find something that should look like this:
Now as far as I could tell the clear piece does not separate from the black base that separates the gauge areas. I didn't particularly reef on it hard as I didn't want to break it. But there's plenty of room to get a paper towel and some Windex back behind there. I gave the gauge faces a wipe down with Windex too. I wouldn't use anything very harsh on them.
Also, if the clear piece is kind of scratched to the point where you can see it when it's in the truck (after many years of cleanings or use), try some Turtle Wax on it. Dries clear and should take care of any of the small imperfections (I don't think you could use it well on the inside of the clear plastic, but you're welcome to try it). It also works on scratched CD's
Now enjoy your nice, clean, well illuminated gauges!
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