1998 ranger automatic hubs

[dirtracer81_2]

Ok I have a 1998 ranger with the junky vacuum hub junk. I replaced the o rings where the 4x4 hub slides onto the hub. My driverside hub is locking in but only for about 30 second then its releasing. I kept it in 4wheel and jacked it up and the wheel will stay locked until about 30 seconds then it turns freely. What can be my issue its only one side the other side is staying locked. Ive been thinking about following some instructions how to convert them so they stay locked all the time.
Thanks for any help!

 

[Redranger89]

your are right that they are junk. I have the same problem but both of mine release after about a minute. There is a leak in the vacuum lines somewhere. I am going to convert mine to lock all the time. at least until i get money to but manual hubs.

 

[4x4RangerGuy]

There are actually two orings in the vacuum hublock system. The one you replaced, and then there is a round seal that presses into the knuckle and the hub assembly mates into. That seal is often mangled up after years of use, and will leak vacuum. The hub assemblies must come off to replace them.

 

[oldman_gamer]

Howdy ya'll. The best fix is to remove the PVA hubs and replace with this manual hub....just did it today to wifey's Ranger and took about 10 minutes per side.http://baseline4x4.com/proddetail.asp?prod=15001.70. Loosen lugs,jack up,remove tire,place jack stand,if not concerned with old units,break the locks with a screwdriver,or carefully remove little by little with 2 or 3 screwdrivers.Pull the old unit off, remove old o-ring,clean up mating areas,a little grease, a touch of light oil on new hub,install new o-ring, align the spline and push it on (make sure it locks in position).Do a manual test by hand to make sure all is well and replace tire rim assy.Done.Next!! Was a walk in the park. Under $180 shipped priority mail.

 

[Jspafford]

The hubs are locked and unlocked by vacuum. However, the hubs do not need a constant supply to stay locked. Once they lock they stay that way until they get the second blast of vacuum to unlock them. Sounds to me like once the supply of vacuum shuts off, the hubs leak off immediatly.....otherwise they would have already locked. You must have a massive vacuum leak.

 

[oldman_gamer]

Ok I have a 1998 ranger with the junky vacuum hub junk. I replaced the o rings where the 4x4 hub slides onto the hub. My driverside hub is locking in but only for about 30 second then its releasing. I kept it in 4wheel and jacked it up and the wheel will stay locked until about 30 seconds then it turns freely. What can be my issue its only one side the other side is staying locked. Ive been thinking about following some instructions how to convert them so they stay locked all the time.
Thanks for any help!

I tried the conversion you are talking about,removing the metal clip on the white piece inside the hub,that is supposed to make them full time.It didn't work for me.There must be further issue with the vaccum,inside seal,or lines leaking etc.That's when I found manual lockouts and installed them very easily.

 

[Kroeter]

Covert to manual hubs. I did about 4 years ago and it was the best thing I ever did.

One suggestion. I did use Mile Markers at first because they were cheaper and I ended up blowing one of them shortly after putting them on. This is not from any major 4x4ing I was doing. I then switched to Warn Hubs and have been happy since.

This conversion can be done VERY simple

 

[Jspafford]

Covert to manual hubs. I did about 4 years ago and it was the best thing I ever did.

One suggestion. I did use Mile Markers at first because they were cheaper and I ended up blowing one of them shortly after putting them on. This is not from any major 4x4ing I was doing. I then switched to Warn Hubs and have been happy since.

This conversion can be done VERY simple

Not even close to being the same setup as you used. His truck is a 1998, which uses vacuum hubs.. Only one brand out there, AVM.

 

[Kroeter]

Jspafford,

Sorry about that, I wasn't aware of that. Thanks!

 

[fixizin]

The hubs are locked and unlocked by vacuum. However, the hubs do not need a constant supply to stay locked. Once they lock they stay that way until they get the second blast of vacuum to unlock them. Sounds to me like once the supply of vacuum shuts off, the hubs leak off immediatly.....otherwise they would have already locked. You must have a massive vacuum leak.

Interesting... I know how an electronic flip-flop works, but I'll have to check out the mechanical version when I do my upcoming tire rotate/brake check/ball joint/front end job.

My PVH still works, and I like not having to get out in the rain, mud, etc. to engage it. And I've printed out the "emergency hand lock" method and stashed it in my glove box, just in case.

I'll be replacing the (4?) O-rings involved... something tells me I have to get them from a stealership, right?

 

[dirtracer81_2]

Yes O rings are only available at the dealer. My dad tried matching them up at advance and that didnt happen.
I used one experiment i found online and it worked. I took and bent the metal clips inside the white thing to let the spring push constantly instead of the vacuum pulling it into the slots. I only have one side done but my 4wd works I plan on doing it to the other side tomorrow. Surprising didnt effect driving or noise but im sure it kills my mpg. Thanks for all the help

 

[4x4RangerGuy]

You need to get the seals from Ford. They are about $30 a piece if I remember, but well worth it to maintain a hassle free 4x4 system.

Honestly though, I would think about the AVMs. If you're too lazy to lock the hubs, then just lock them before you drive and leave the transfer case disengaged. Then just engage it when you need 4x4. You'll lose a negligible amount of gas mileage, and the most you'll feel is slightly more steering shimmy, nothing bad at all.

 

[oughtsix]

FWIW, do consider manual hubs. i accidentally left the hubs locked once, and did a full lock turn on pavement. All it did was hop a bit. Should i make a habit of this, certainly not. But it is an illustration of strength.

BTW, the hubs are warn.

Brian

 

[wohlf 16]

Prolly about 3 months before my 99 was totalled I fixed the pulse vaccum hub problem on my truck. There is a way to save some money and have manual locking hubs. All you have to do is take the outer piece off of the hub, remove the little metal screen and carefully remove the plastic t pieces going across the center. Put it all back in and you can now depress the hub with your finger. I ended up just breaking the clips off on the inside of the hub so that i had a live front axle at all times because at the time i didnt realize that i was getting enough vaccum to cause it to lock one in and not the other. If you do make it so that you can lock and unlock your hubs make sure to remove the vaccum line and pinch it off. Hopefully this kind of helps out.

 

[fixizin]

Even though I'm not the OP, *thanks* for all the feedback and insights.

Note: I'm not too LAZY to get out and lock manuals, I just don't want to get out in the rain--or MUD--WEARING NICE SHOES, if I don't have to!

True story: on the way to a job interview, traffic is jamming up, with rain as a contributing factor to the jam... never really at a complete stop, but rolling under 5 mph.. so I was "forced" to make an "unauthorized" between-exits exit to get to the access road... through sand and muck... got to the interview on-time, suit clean, shoes shiny and DRY... THAT is a good use of PVH-actuated 4WD, LOL!