I have already tried this, no difference.
UPDATE
I have since done a few tests/experiments and i think i have a solid diagnoses. First I will explain how I arrived at my conclusion.
I have noticed that the engine has been taking longer to start if I don't let the pump run the full 2 second prime cycle at least once but often times it takes 2 cycles.
This tells me that I'm not maintaining proper fuel pressure.
(Side note: when I jump the relay and listen under the hood I can hear the pump running like it has no fuel in the line s, then build pressure and then the for will make a strange little squeak and the pump will maintain same pitch/speed there after. Does this mean my fpr might faulty?)
Furthermore, I'm my numerous test drives, I noticed that this issue isn't intermittent as I thought. My original assumptio n was that the issue was some type of electrical issue that was caused by something being jostled around as I drive.
But as I played around with it more (cycling the key, and trying to pinpointing at what throttle response the problem made its self apparent (my initial inclinations were leaning toward tps issue.) During my throttle response testing, I discovered that the issue was always there at anything above approx. 85% throttle, I was unsure as to whether or not this could be due to the fact that my ecm is for n/A 2.3 and and used a MAP sensor and therefore it was unable to determine proper fuel requirement under boost. As I let out of throttle slowly, I realized that when I backed off from approx 90% throttle the problem went away, I then maintain Throttle and the issue would resurface, back off more til it straightens out, maintain throttle again and it would be fine for a little while longer, and again it started acting up, this pattern continued until the engine would do nothing but idle and in most cases stall. I ran this "test" multiple times and consistently received these results.
I was told check ignition switch and wires. So I ran the engine while the vehicle set in the drive way and did the tappity-tap-tap on the ignition switch and column, no change on engine operation. I then juggled the wires and Molex connector, again no apparent change. Did I g this idle/park test, I also noticed the engine would have a rhythmic idle variation and intermittent misfiring. Installed new spark plugs and added dielectric grease. Plug woes aren't in the greatest condition, but are pretty much guaranteed to be good. Cap and rotor are brand new.
Now, all that taken into account I have reached the conclusion that either the hose between pump and hanger assembly is leaking somehow its the pump itself is failing, i.e. declining in speed and /or clogging, generally just crapping out. The filter is new, but I cleaned it via shaking and knockit ariund and finally blew it out with air gun.
Furthermore, I was informed it could be choking out from running to rich, as I have checked plugs ,cyl 1 exceptional amount of soot on it after running engine for a while, the rest appeared to be minorly rich but for the most part they appeared to be acceptable. But a trip to the parts house in said vehicle for new plugs, I changed in the parking lot. All plugs were showing to be a bit lean but still in the area of desirable peanut butter color. (And the elctrodes werent warn at all. ( just remembered that is used the stock ranger 2.3 head which I had previously just replaced plugs less then 100 mi. Ago.
So again all signs point to leaking hanger/pump hire or failing pump. Anybody agree??
While in topic of fuel system, what is static fuel pressure??
I still have more to diagnose but this issue is then most prevalent and annoyying in the list, more posts to follow.