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2.3 to 4.0


sluginxlt

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my current truck is a 1990 2wd 2.3 with a mazda manual trans. ive seen write ups swaping from a 2.9 to a 4.0 but never into a 2.3 truck. i have a 4.0 out of a 92 ranger i rolled, so i was wondering what junkyard parts i need to start collecting for the swap. will my mazda 5speed from my 2.3 work with the 4.0?
 


AllanD

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Well, you'll need a new transmission, the bellhousing (cast integral with the case) is different between the 4.0 and the 2.3.

Electrically your swap will be easier than most.

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sluginxlt

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could i use the computer and wiring from an explorer? i dont see many rangers with 4.0 and manual trans in the junkyards but the explorers are everywhere
 

AllanD

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Stick/auto isn't determined by the main wiring harness, but rather
by the engine instrument harness that connects to the oil guage sensor,
oil level sensor, Cannister purge solenoid and then hangs off the back of the engine.

The On-engine harness' are the same for 90-91, and part of 92
different for the rest of 1992 and differnet again for 1993 and 1994

where the problem comes in in a 4.0 conversion using the engine BAY harness
is that several things are wired differently in the explorers Vs the rangers.

So if you want the install to go with a minumum of splicing
(following days and weeks of study) you really want the
engine bay harness from a 4.0 Ranger manual or auto simply doesn't matter.

If you NEED the specific TRANS harness PM me, I usually have a few of those around
I also usually have manual trans comuputers

there are some slight (but significant) strategy differences in the M/T computers.
For starters idle control and more importantly "overrun" strategy are "Better" for a manual trans truck.

Basically when you close throttle (take ytour foot completely off the gas)
and the engine is above 1700rpm most EEC-4 fords eith manualtransmissions simply shut off the injectors.
You'll often feel this is as an additional "surge" of engine braking AFTER
a few seconds of engine braking.

It may not seem like much but it can save a mile per gallon
or two in hilly terrain, not to mention save wear and tear on the brakes.

A auto trans installation MUST maintain "idle" because if the auto
transmissions front pump isn't spun sufficiently the clutches release
and you get no braking action at all as the trans freewheels.

An interesting demonstration of that effect:
Remember that footage of the people in the K5 Blazer rolling down
Lion's back in Moab? their engine stalled and they lost trans braking,
power brakes AND power steering...

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