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28 to 35 driveshaft


bigpotato555

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I know this have been talk a lot...but I didn't find answer to my question searching in the forum....I just swap my 28 for a 35...I have 1350 t-case with the spline end...in the tech library it said that it need to be shorten 1-1.5"...but I though that with my 4" rough country lift and 2" coil spacer that it would compensate for the lenght...but when I assemble it...i notice that the driveshaft will only slide back 1/2" into the t-case...is that enough for when the suspension will move? can I just just cut 1/2" of the spline or need to shorten the driveshaft ??
thx guy!
 


engdept

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You need to shorten the whole drive shaft.

After you get it installed, measure from the center of the u-joint cup to the nose of the transfer case. Take that measurement to a drive shaft shop and they can make it right for you.
 

Hahnsb2

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It's only $75 to get a shaft shortened around here. A 1354 t-case and driveshaft will also bolt up with no modifactions.
 

bigpotato555

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I know..75$ is too much..I know I'm a poor bitch!..I have a 1354 but no driveshaft....which is to moo much(for now)...cutting 1/2" will cost 1 min of my time...
 

engdept

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You can pick up a front drive shaft for that 1354 for about $25 from a local yard.
 

mkpecor

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i have a 6'' coils and 1 3/4 coil spacers, and my front drive line was fine after doing the swap, take the rubber boot off where the shaft slides in to the t case, put a jack under the driver side i beam, [by the ball joint] and jack it up untill you are at full stuff, go under the truck and look at how much spline is left on the shaft. if you have a 1/2'' to 1'' of spline showing you dont need to shorten the shaft. MAKE SURE TRUCK IS STABLE
 
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engdept

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the boot is there to keep debris out of the splines
 

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the boot is there to keep debris out of the splines
I think he implied you only remove it so you can see the splines, then put it back on later. If you feel comfortable enough trying to cut it square and re-welding it evenly, then you may be alright. It depends how much you plan to use 4x4 at higher speeds, like snowy/icy streets.
 

Dusty_Ranger

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my 88 has a fm146 and a dana 35 if i took a front drive shaft front a 91 ranger with a dana 35 and a m50d would it be shorter than my current shaft?
 

Hahnsb2

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The FM146, A4LD and M5OD are all the same length, D35 equipped RBVs will have a 1354 and that is where the difference in driveshafts is.. A driveshaft from a FM145/1350 rig should go in with no problems because the FM145 was a couple inches shorter than the other trannies.
 

engdept

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The FM146, A4LD and M5OD are all the same length, D35 equipped RBVs will have a 1354 and that is where the difference in driveshafts is.. A driveshaft from a FM145/1350 rig should go in with no problems because the FM145 was a couple inches shorter than the other trannies.
Yup.
 

bigpotato555

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If you feel comfortable enough trying to cut it square and re-welding it evenly, then you may be alright. It depends how much you plan to use 4x4 at higher speeds, like snowy/icy streets.

I was more thinking of cutting the head of the spline....just so that it does not it the end of the t-case when iting a bump.

With the boot on...the driveshaft get in 1/2"... i think the boot stop it from getting in more...is 1/2" enough...I know my front axle don't have much travel with stock radius arm...
 

Sasquatch_Ryda

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If you cut the spline it won't bottom out, but it may fall out when the axle droops. At ride height you want the slip spline to be centered in its range of travel.
 

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Yeah do not cut the splines. You will only cause problems for yourself later on down the road.
 

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