351W timing set question

[rusty ol ranger]

Will a 69 351w timing set work on a 77?

I know it should...but can anyone verify?

Also...does anyone know anywhere i can source a complete bolt set for all the accessorys? I found kits for the waterpump, intake etc but i need ones for PS and alternator too

 

[franklin2]

Timing set checks out on rockauto for both years.

 

[4.0blue98]

Can't help with the timing set but I've used these guys for bolt kits.

Alloyboltz

You can contact them directly too. Small business.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Awesome. Thanks guys

 

[19Walt93]

The timing set will bolt to the engine, the difference is whether you have a one piece or 2 piece fuel pump eccentric. A stock 77 set is likely to have 4-6 degrees of retard built into it, getting rid of it will only help. A 77 should have pedestal style rocker arms where 76 and earlier used rail rockers that were famous for destroying valve guides. If it's in the budget, a set of E7TE heads would be an inexpensive upgrade, too.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

The timing set will bolt to the engine, the difference is whether you have a one piece or 2 piece fuel pump eccentric. A stock 77 set is likely to have 4-6 degrees of retard built into it, getting rid of it will only help. A 77 should have pedestal style rocker arms where 76 and earlier used rail rockers that were famous for destroying valve guides. If it's in the budget, a set of E7TE heads would be an inexpensive upgrade, too.

Thats why i originally bought the 69 timing set. Back in 07 lol.

Just didnt really do a ton of research when i did if it was basically bolt on and go or i had to do other stuff.

The motors tore down to really all i gotta do is get the crank pulley off and the cover and slap the chain and gears in.

I was gonna pull it and rebuild it, but ill just run this one as far as itll go. It ran good before the chain slipped. But i do remember the oil pressure light flickering at idle...but who knows if it was actually an issue or the sender. I had the heads redone for the bent valves too.

Its my old 77 LTD II. If i do end up rebuilding it ill pry keep it mostly stock just for a good reliable drive anywhere cruiser. Might toss in an RV cam or something for a bit more oomph off the line. Dont really wanna regear cause it would get 20mpg hwy with the 2.50 rear.

 

[franklin2]

Thats why i originally bought the 69 timing set. Back in 07 lol.

Just didnt really do a ton of research when i did if it was basically bolt on and go or i had to do other stuff.

The motors tore down to really all i gotta do is get the crank pulley off and the cover and slap the chain and gears in.

I was gonna pull it and rebuild it, but ill just run this one as far as itll go. It ran good before the chain slipped. But i do remember the oil pressure light flickering at idle...but who knows if it was actually an issue or the sender. I had the heads redone for the bent valves too.

Its my old 77 LTD II. If i do end up rebuilding it ill pry keep it mostly stock just for a good reliable drive anywhere cruiser. Might toss in an RV cam or something for a bit more oomph off the line. Dont really wanna regear cause it would get 20mpg hwy with the 2.50 rear.

If it had the plastic coated upper timing gear, the plastic comes off and clogs the oil pump pickup tube. That might be why the light was flickering. I would drop the oil pan and double check the pickup screen. Then you can put the timing cover stuff on, and then the new oil pan gasket without having to splice the pan gasket.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

If it had the plastic coated upper timing gear, the plastic comes off and clogs the oil pump pickup tube. That might be why the light was flickering. I would drop the oil pan and double check the pickup screen. Then you can put the timing cover stuff on, and then the new oil pan gasket without having to splice the pan gasket.

Good bit of advice. I didnt think about that.

Im not sure i can get the pan down without pulling the motor though. I aint been under it in years.

Thats a one piece rear main though isnt it?

 

[franklin2]

Oh no, I thought you were working on it outside the vehicle getting ready to drop it in. Pulling the oil pan in the vehicle is never fun, What vehicle is the engine in?

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Oh no, I thought you were working on it outside the vehicle getting ready to drop it in. Pulling the oil pan in the vehicle is never fun, What vehicle is the engine in?

77 LTD II.

No engine is not out. Im thinking of just slapping the chain in fireing it up and seeing where im at. If i pull it chances are its getting rebuilt regardless.

If i can pull the pan with it basically in ill do it...but if i gotta pull it anyways...

 

[19Walt93]

77 LTD II.

No engine is not out. Im thinking of just slapping the chain in fireing it up and seeing where im at. If i pull it chances are its getting rebuilt regardless.

If i can pull the pan with it basically in ill do it...but if i gotta pull it anyways...

I'd take the pan off now, later will just be more work. Whenever I suspect something and don't investigate, it always bites me in the arse. Also, I use double roller timing sets, the "silent" chains like your original always stretch after very few miles, even with a steel/iron cam gear.
Want a little free power and gas mileage? Check your centrifugal advance curve. My 77 Mustang wasn't fully advanced until almost 4500 rpms, now it's all in by 2800-3000. Admittedly, my engine isn't quite stock but just recurving the advance gained me 2 tenths in the quarter, that's significant.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

I'd take the pan off now, later will just be more work. Whenever I suspect something and don't investigate, it always bites me in the arse. Also, I use double roller timing sets, the "silent" chains like your original always stretch after very few miles, even with a steel/iron cam gear.
Want a little free power and gas mileage? Check your centrifugal advance curve. My 77 Mustang wasn't fully advanced until almost 4500 rpms, now it's all in by 2800-3000. Admittedly, my engine isn't quite stock but just recurving the advance gained me 2 tenths in the quarter, that's significant.

Im not exactly clear how to do that? I know i bumped the ignition timing up an couple degrees. Ran 93 in it and even that woke it up considerably.

My original plan was to build a 400 for it (why? Torque...and everyone does a 460 lol) but id have to swap bells and mounts anr whatever else.

But yeah i am all ears for how to pick up a bit of ass while im messing with it anyways. Like i said i dont wanna go full on even if i rebuild it....just a nice cruiser thats reliable.

 

[19Walt93]

Clearly mark your balancer timing marks- at least every 10 degrees or so if you don't have a dial back timing light. Hook up a tach and timing light, unhook the vacuum advance hose, and check your base timing. Slowly increase the rpms while watching the timing until it stops advancing and check the tach. If the distributor is stock you'll probably stop revving it before the advance is all in because the engine will be screaming. Pull the cap and rotor and you'll see one or two slots in the base plate, look through the slots while turning it over slowly by hand until the springs appear. One spring will be stiff and likely loose- leave that one alone for now unless it's tight, in which case bend the tang slightly to loosen it. Once you see the visibly weaker spring you can slightly bend the little tang it attaches to in the direction the spring is pulling it. The key word being SLIGHTLY. Recheck the advance. I've taken out the base plate and changed springs on occasion but you should be able to make a big improvement by just bending the tang(s). Unless you're lucky, it'll take several tries.
The vacuum advance hose should be attached to the spark port located under the right front corner of a 2150. If the vacuum goes to a TVS( temperature vacuum switch) before going to the distributor , bypass the TVS. If you have a dual vacuum distributor, the side closest to the distributor body retards the timing. Leave that vacuum port open and plug the hose at it's source.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Clearly mark your balancer timing marks- at least every 10 degrees or so if you don't have a dial back timing light. Hook up a tach and timing light, unhook the vacuum advance hose, and check your base timing. Slowly increase the rpms while watching the timing until it stops advancing and check the tach. If the distributor is stock you'll probably stop revving it before the advance is all in because the engine will be screaming. Pull the cap and rotor and you'll see one or two slots in the base plate, look through the slots while turning it over slowly by hand until the springs appear. One spring will be stiff and likely loose- leave that one alone for now unless it's tight, in which case bend the tang slightly to loosen it. Once you see the visibly weaker spring you can slightly bend the little tang it attaches to in the direction the spring is pulling it. The key word being SLIGHTLY. Recheck the advance. I've taken out the base plate and changed springs on occasion but you should be able to make a big improvement by just bending the tang(s). Unless you're lucky, it'll take several tries.
The vacuum advance hose should be attached to the spark port located under the right front corner of a 2150. If the vacuum goes to a TVS( temperature vacuum switch) before going to the distributor , bypass the TVS. If you have a dual vacuum distributor, the side closest to the distributor body retards the timing. Leave that vacuum port open and plug the hose at it's source.

I screen shotted this. Thanks for typing all that. I might give it a whirl when i get that far.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I screen shotted this. Thanks for typing all that. I might give it a whirl when i get that far.

Did the same.