88 2.9L Misfireing/backfireing issue

[88 XLT Ranger]

Fail once again

I thought I had it in the bag after hours going though wire harnesses. I thought maybe moving the wires helped. I started it up ran real slow at 800rpm's cold I let it warm up for a few min. I hit the road lots of power no popping/missing I got on the freeway started up the 6 mile grade 3000ft to 4000ft no popping strong running. I get to the off ramp still no popping/ missing I ran around town stopping shutting off with no issues. Next was my treck home up the on ramp good power no issues 2 miles at 65mph no issues than down the grade coasting 55 mph no back popping. The freeway leveled out for 60ft hit the gas no issues than coast another 1/4 than stop turn. This dirty bastard started popping/missing running like shit again. WTF is going on with this ordeal? I did notice a slight bubbling in the overflow tank once shut of in the driveway

This is my last effort the Moroso all weather seal should be here in the morning. I will flush the system re-fill with fresh antifreeze and add the Moroso let it run at idle for 1/2 hour. If this don't work I am at the end of the rope on this truck. I hope that non members looking into to this thread get some ideas or help on there issues. One thing I like to put clear I do appreciate all you fine folks help in trying to figure this out "Thank You" I will just drive it chitty chitty Bang Bang until it blows

 

[Spott]

Do not put the Moroso in your engine. Your symptoms are not those of a head/gasket leak. If you do, you will regret it, and will never be able to remove it. If you can prove me wrong, feel free, but so far there's no proof of a head/gasket leak.

You fiddled thoroughly with the wires, and it ran great for a while, then reverted to poor running? That's very likely a sign that your problem is caused by wire or connector issues.

Maybe you twisted a wire around and moved it away from something it was shorting against. Maybe you wiggled a connector and it got pushed into better contact than before. Apparently, whatever it was moved back into its usual position with engine and road vibration. All you have to do now is find that wire or connector and solve its problem.

Another possibility is that you unknowingly disconnected the computer from the battery, and that "reset the problem" until the computer re-learned the behavior of your engine.

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

Do not put the Moroso in your engine. Your symptoms are not those of a head/gasket leak. If you do, you will regret it, and will never be able to remove it. If you can prove me wrong, feel free, but so far there's no proof of a head/gasket leak.

You fiddled thoroughly with the wires, and it ran great for a while, then reverted to poor running? That's very likely a sign that your problem is caused by wire or connector issues.

Maybe you twisted a wire around and moved it away from something it was shorting against. Maybe you wiggled a connector and it got pushed into better contact than before. Apparently, whatever it was moved back into its usual position with engine and road vibration. All you have to do now is find that wire or connector and solve its problem.

Another possibility is that you unknowingly disconnected the computer from the battery, and that "reset the problem" until the computer re-learned the behavior of your engine.

Spott

I disconnected the battery before messing with the wire loom. The one coming from the passengers side firewall up to the battery and over across to the engine. I moved the wires around looking for any with issues I found nothing there are two wires together in silver foil looking wrap that had some sorta white powder on them I cleaned it off. I disconnected two connectors in that harness all looks good. When I put it back together and fired it up it almost died I ran around grabbed the throttle on the throttle body gave it some gas it popped once. After that it started running great again sitting not moving last night. This morning fired it the idle wouldn't go over 800rpm's but I let it sit run for a bit than hit the road as I stated in the other post

I am lost of what to do next? or check?

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

Spott

This may sound stupid but would the heater blower motor make this issue? I just went and checked my brother installed a 68 Mustang blower fan motor due to it burning up two factory units. The blower motor wires are old and the wires are exposed at the base grommet area. He just crimped to ends and pushed them into the heater connector. I did move them away from other wires or metal body areas. On this I see the base grommet where the wires are exposed are 1" away from the filter box clamp

Maybe this is wishful thinking I can't see that making an engine pop or misfire or could it. The blower motor works fine never shorted out

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

I just found this post my alternator sounds like its coming apart at times busting grinding noise. It charges good even when popping/missing maybe try disconnecting the alternator the wire connector going into the side of see if it still has issues



scarface
Junior Member


Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 51
Vehicle Year: 1989
Vehicle Make: Ford
Vehicle Model: Ranger
I use this vehicle for: adventure
Rep Power: 19
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i had a similar problem

it was a tiny piece of metal that had broken off inside the alternator
that was floating around

it would randomly and intermittently cause a short which was causing a misfire

ford couldn't figure it out $$$$$ after changing every filter sensor etc....

We unplugged the alternator and it ran fine

simple fix after that

My freight liner mechanic buddy specializes in electrical trouble shooting
so i have to give him credit for figuring this out

 

[Mark_88]

I'm with Spott...I agree it is not a head leak and using the sealant may result in undesirable effects.

But it sounds like you did trip/fix/reset something when you were going over the harness. Believe me...it doesn't take much to overlook a wonky connector or a tiny bare spot that is causing the problem.

If the harness looked scorched it may have melted and then resealed the wires...although you will see the obvious signs of that.

More importantly though...if you have connectors that were taken apart and inspected did you by any chance use anything like dielectric or conductive grease? It is important that this is understood and appreciated for the many problems that can arise from inappropriate use of these "lubricants"...and to take corrective measures when necessary.

I found this article that might help you but, essentially, it is critical that you do not use these incorrectly. I was careful to use dielectric grease in some connectors and not conductive greases but only because I didn't know the difference...

http://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm

The connectors in that harness may have minute weaknesses that are hard to detect and it is worth another round to go over them again...but try to be a bit more methodical if possible. In that I mean wiggle wires...test...wiggle wires...test...wiggle wires...test...

This may not actually be possible considering how close these wires can be to either sensors or other connectors that may be affected just by touching them. but the back harenss near where the IAC is...that has a connector for the IAC that may be shorting out and causing the problem sporadically through vibrations or whatever as Spott mentioned.

I think you are closer to the solution now than you've ever been...keep at it and be patient with it...so close...

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

I'm with Spott...I agree it is not a head leak and using the sealant may result in undesirable effects.

But it sounds like you did trip/fix/reset something when you were going over the harness. Believe me...it doesn't take much to overlook a wonky connector or a tiny bare spot that is causing the problem.

If the harness looked scorched it may have melted and then resealed the wires...although you will see the obvious signs of that.

More importantly though...if you have connectors that were taken apart and inspected did you by any chance use anything like dielectric or conductive grease? It is important that this is understood and appreciated for the many problems that can arise from inappropriate use of these "lubricants"...and to take corrective measures when necessary.

I found this article that might help you but, essentially, it is critical that you do not use these incorrectly. I was careful to use dielectric grease in some connectors and not conductive greases but only because I didn't know the difference...

http://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm

The connectors in that harness may have minute weaknesses that are hard to detect and it is worth another round to go over them again...but try to be a bit more methodical if possible. In that I mean wiggle wires...test...wiggle wires...test...wiggle wires...test...

This may not actually be possible considering how close these wires can be to either sensors or other connectors that may be affected just by touching them. but the back harenss near where the IAC is...that has a connector for the IAC that may be shorting out and causing the problem sporadically through vibrations or whatever as Spott mentioned.

I think you are closer to the solution now than you've ever been...keep at it and be patient with it...so close...

Mark thanks for the help

All the connectors I disconnected I didn't use any dielectric silicone compound they had more than enough from the factory. On the Ignition Module back I used AGS Dielectric silicone compound clear in color. Todays was another fail in tests I started it twice both times it dies within a few seconds. The third time it was trying to run I ran around gave it some throttle it got going than went to 1500rpm's. I smelled gas like it was loaded up still running crappy jerking real rough idle. I backed up put in drive it tried to die I gave some gas got on the road started pushing the throttle down Pop Pop Pop up the road I got out took and disconnected the alternator connector jumped it again Pop Pop Pop . I hooked it back up got on the road Pop Pop Pop I floored it and into low gear she reved up to 4000rpm's I let of it went into the next gear hit the throttle bogging some 5 miles at 35mph. It kept doing this until the third start up in town. I think its an IAC valve issue it trys to die putting into gear and stopping putting into park it goes from to 800rpm's to 1500rpm's than down quick

Could this IAC valve be the issue? I smell fuel and some other weird smell. It was real bad today on this start up session

 

[Mark_88]

Of course the IAC could be the problem. If you already changed it and didn't see any improvement it could still be the IAC being the cause...just not a wonky IAC but rather what controls the IAC...that's what lead me to my last post...the IAC actually functions at some point properly...but when the wires cross or the computer tells it to close when it should be open then you need to address that instead of the physical components.

Now...I was thinking about this last night and I remembered asking about rain/humidity in a long ago post...but you have mentioned a few times it was too wet out to go do testing...

On my 88 there was a rubber strip running the length of the hood by the cowl...this helps to prevent moisture (rain) from dripping down into the engine bay onto the wiring and exhaust...usually. If that strip is missing or is not doing what it should do then you have a chance that moisture is getting onto and into connections/wires causing it to short...

You've also mentioned that the truck is in near mint condition...but you might want to check that rubber strip...and also check for moisture on the wires...even condensation can do that if you are parking the truck outside.

I had an 89 Tempo for 14 years...the tempo had a rubber boot on the distributor...one day I took it off to change the distributor and rotor and didn't put the boot back on...the next wet day the car would not start initially and it would run a bit but die. After much ado I realized the boot was off and when I got the engine running (by spraying silicone on the wires (WD40 initially) I put the boot back on...never had a problem with starting/running after that...

You might try spraying the wires with a silicone spray to see if that helps... it won't hurt anything and might help fix the issue...also a good preventative maintenance step that I did on all my Ford vehicles after that issue

At one point I suggested going out at night and spraying the wires with water and running the engine (best to start it and keep it running before spraying) and in the dark you should see a bit of a light show...or a huge light show indicating the problem is arcing wires...so you're losing spark...getting flooded...temporary enough that no outward symptoms will show up anywhere...

I think that may be contributing to or actually causing most of what you are seeing...but I could be wrong...again!

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

Of course the IAC could be the problem. If you already changed it and didn't see any improvement it could still be the IAC being the cause...just not a wonky IAC but rather what controls the IAC...that's what lead me to my last post...the IAC actually functions at some point properly...but when the wires cross or the computer tells it to close when it should be open then you need to address that instead of the physical components.

Now...I was thinking about this last night and I remembered asking about rain/humidity in a long ago post...but you have mentioned a few times it was too wet out to go do testing...

On my 88 there was a rubber strip running the length of the hood by the cowl...this helps to prevent moisture (rain) from dripping down into the engine bay onto the wiring and exhaust...usually. If that strip is missing or is not doing what it should do then you have a chance that moisture is getting onto and into connections/wires causing it to short...

You've also mentioned that the truck is in near mint condition...but you might want to check that rubber strip...and also check for moisture on the wires...even condensation can do that if you are parking the truck outside.

I had an 89 Tempo for 14 years...the tempo had a rubber boot on the distributor...one day I took it off to change the distributor and rotor and didn't put the boot back on...the next wet day the car would not start initially and it would run a bit but die. After much ado I realized the boot was off and when I got the engine running (by spraying silicone on the wires (WD40 initially) I put the boot back on...never had a problem with starting/running after that...

You might try spraying the wires with a silicone spray to see if that helps... it won't hurt anything and might help fix the issue...also a good preventative maintenance step that I did on all my Ford vehicles after that issue

At one point I suggested going out at night and spraying the wires with water and running the engine (best to start it and keep it running before spraying) and in the dark you should see a bit of a light show...or a huge light show indicating the problem is arcing wires...so you're losing spark...getting flooded...temporary enough that no outward symptoms will show up anywhere...

I think that may be contributing to or actually causing most of what you are seeing...but I could be wrong...again!

Thanks Mark

The rubber strip is in place and no water gets into the engine bay. I did remove the IAC valve and cleaned it but made it worse it seams. Those are not cheap items I just been looking at the auto stores web pages. I did try the water spray over around the coil area a while back but with test light after. I should do it tonight see if I see any sparks or somthing

 

[Mark_88]

Thanks Mark

The rubber strip is in place and no water gets into the engine bay. I did remove the IAC valve and cleaned it but made it worse it seams. Those are not cheap items I just been looking at the auto stores web pages. I did try the water spray over around the coil area a while back but with test light after. I should do it tonight see if I see any sparks or somthing

Worth a shot...might surprise you...

I was diagnosing a misfire on my 96 and in broad daylight I saw the number one passenger side wire arcing to motor removal hook on that side of the engine. It wasn't a fix for the misfire but I'm sure it didn't hurt to move things around so there was no arc.

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

Think I may know what the issue is well maybe


I did a couple tests today first the glove test on the radiator engine warm. I tuned it over and over no pushing up of the glove. I sqwezed the upper hose just a bit and the glove moved up and down. I disconnected the IAC when it was popping no change there. I do have lifter noise sometimes bad than others quite a slight ticking. This might be a lifter issue this popping bogging ordeal. I did put two quarts of Lucas in it months ago. Maybe I should go 100% Lucas oil stabilizer and hope for the best. This off and on popping bogging maybe the lifter or lifters not pumping up or loosing pressure

I had my Moroso seal and new antifreeze though I do the glove test first. If it where a cracked head or head gasket issue that glove would be moving up and down real good I think. Any of you had this issue with lifters?

 

[Mark_88]

Yes...every once in a while my 2.3 would clatter and loose power...sometimes it would just pick up and go but sometimes it would totally die. I would get out and...sure enough...the oil was low.

I used the Lucas oil treatment on the engine and it lasted probably a year longer than it should have but was losing oil like crazy...I think the sticky properties of that oil kept the engine lubricated on the low oil bouts...

But it would always...always run properly after I added oil. It might take a few seconds to quiet down but I was able to drive it home afterwards.

If putting in a higher proportion of the Lucas helps then it could be what is wrong...try it...worst case scenario is it doesn't fix it all the time and you need to keep looking...best case of course is it resolves the issue for you and you can go back to enjoying your truck.

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

Yes...every once in a while my 2.3 would clatter and loose power...sometimes it would just pick up and go but sometimes it would totally die. I would get out and...sure enough...the oil was low.

I used the Lucas oil treatment on the engine and it lasted probably a year longer than it should have but was losing oil like crazy...I think the sticky properties of that oil kept the engine lubricated on the low oil bouts...

But it would always...always run properly after I added oil. It might take a few seconds to quiet down but I was able to drive it home afterwards.

If putting in a higher proportion of the Lucas helps then it could be what is wrong...try it...worst case scenario is it doesn't fix it all the time and you need to keep looking...best case of course is it resolves the issue for you and you can go back to enjoying your truck.

Thanks Mark

Great info on the issue you had I changed the filter to a higher flow one four months ago. I think just warm it up drain the oil add 4 quarts I have to double check amount without changing filter. Just leave the filter on what little oil in it wont thin it to much. Its going to snow Sunday I hope this helps running in 4X4 with it popping like it is not good at all. When it pops I floor it and it will rev up bogging in lower gear. I never let it rev over 4000rpm's I don't want to blow it up

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

Need quick help guy's

I need filter help in understanding GPM what this means? Does this mean flow rate through the oil filter? I want the highest flow rate and less restriction. I have lifter trouble due to worn cam bearings and lifters from what I understand. I have now a MicroGuard 7 to 9 GPM that I though was more than Napa brand filters on GPM come find out not

I can get in stock a Mobil I filter that flows 24.3 GPM its more money but I want this to flow the highest to get more pressure to the lifters. I am going 100% Lucas Oil Stabilizer the filter maybe one of my issues to much oil flow restriction? All other filter I see the same flow rate 7 to 9 GPM. Now Motorcraft FL-1A I see no GPM and I herd there junk

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

We got a positive test run

I went and bought 5 quarts of Lucas Oil Stabilizer and a Napa Silver oil filter made by Wicks. I drained all the old Lucas and STP oil treatment out shit caned the old filter. I added 5 quarts of Lucas one I filled the filter before installing. I fired it up I could hear lifters ticking but it didn't do the normal popping. I let it run 20min at idle shut it off let cool than again let run 10min shut it off. It was snowing but had to test drive it to find out. I fired it up got on the road no popping stopped got on the highway up to 65 mph up the grade 5 miles no popping. I stopped the snow was coming down to hard I went down the highway than stopped at the gift shop Cheveron station. I hit the highway again up to 4000rpm's shifting than 1 1/2 miles pull over the same turn that gets me all the time "No Pooping"

I hope after $74 this is the final ordeal and why this Popping/Missing was so hard to figure out. To me it was like the Truck was running out of fuel or some electrical issue. I had to put my brain into action to figure this shit out. My last ditch effort was the lifter or lifters being the issue. It took me $500 to figure this out but what can you do trial and error I guess. The GPM's question I talked with a friend a Ford factory drag racer I got the full history lesson. I am so glad I would have wasted more money for nothing on a filter. Anyway again thanks to all of you for your help and all your amazing in depth ideas of the issue at hand