94 2.3 wont fire up

[Furbee86]

Truck was running just fine. Went in to walmart. Came out 15 minutes later and it wont start. Tried to jump it. No luck. Dud some looking around o. Here. Tried spraying throttle cleaner and it fires up for about a half second then dies. I recently changed the plugs and wires about 2 weeks ago. Im really at a loss as to what to check. Thru the obd on and came up with code 542 koeo.

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[tomw]

If it will fire on fuel or liquid sprayed into the intake, but not otherwise, I'd check the fuel pump relay, the rollover switch mounted in-cab, passenger side, just above the top edge of the carpet or mat. Press the red button a few times to re-seat the ball bearing. Relay on older is passenger side, under the plastic cover, under hood, mounted to the inner edge of the fender.
You should hear the pump run for 3-5 seconds when the key is turned to ON. If not, check the above, along with the fuse, and if no noise, drag it home and lift the bed off, tilt it up, tilt it sideways, and check the in-tank pump. You may have a pump on the frame rail, about under the driver, which produces high pressure.
Either way, you are lacking fuel.
You can also check the fuel pressure on the injector fuel rail. And the fuel pressure regulator if you get it running.
A 'stopped right now' with no prior indications, might even be a loose wire.
tom

 

[Furbee86]

Today after work i checked the fuse and relay and the inertia switch.. Now that i got it in the garage. I listened from under by the fuel tank. I heard a slight click. Very quick. Guess my next step is getting to the pump. Is it easier to lower the tank or take the bed off. I know i dont have a hex big enough. Any idea what size for the bolts on the bed?

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[Mark_88]

The bed bolts are T-55 if they are the originals. They can be rusted and snap so apply a few layers of something like PB Blaster (this works good) or other penetrating oil first. crawl under and hit the C clamp that sits on the frame and the bolts thread into it. Kind of hard to get at but all can be reached with a bit of crawling around...

I soaked mine overnight and then reapplied a few times the next day and mine all came out easily (not the first time).

Clean out the Torx opening on the heads if they are dirty...even just sediment...vacuum them out and use small pics to clean them out because they can strip and then you have to cut the heads off...I used a torch on a few but you can also grind them off...

If the bolts are not budging use a breaker bar...if you don't have one they are worth the investment and can be used for things like lug nuts so plenty of uses and they save your legs, arms and back from excess strain...unless you're still young and strong...

You don't need to remove the box completely but make sure you prop it up with something stable...double it up just in case...the box isn't heavy and can be lifted off easily but you won't have to disconnect the rear lights if you just prop it up.

 

[tomw]

If I were doing it, I'd lift the bed, hands down. Raising and lowering a fuel tank is no fun, and the tank straps & fasteners are not easy to get back in place.
Did you check voltage going to the pump, or just check that the rollover & relay were in place? The relay should click for a short run at key ON, and voltage should appear at the rollover on both sides. Given you heard a short 'click' near the tank, I make the assumption you figure the pump is done.
One other test is to ground pin 6 of the DLC as noted here:

https://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=65300

When the Data Link Connector pin is grounded, the fuel pump should run 100% of the time, as I remember. The pin must be grounded to pull codes from an EEC-IV system, and it turns on the fuel pump relay, and the pump should run. I think. Been a while.
So, if you can get the pump running by that method, it ain't the pump, it's a relay, bad ground, etc. Look up the schematic, maybe at Autozone, and see what's involve before doing all the work. A 'click' is good, but it may only be a click because of other faulty or badly grounded things.
tom

 

[Mark_88]

I forgot to mention that I ended up replacing all the bolts with new hardware and I even found new C-clips that made putting it back together easy. The local NAPA store had everything needed so it was a one-stop shopping.

If you can salvage the bolts or at the very least measure them to get a similar size you'll be able match them. I don't remember what mine were now but I also added an inch of lift to the box to match the lift I had to add to the cab. It shouldn't affect the filler neck connector either way but you might want to give that a good look to make sure it is not in need of replacement.

It won't be hard to remove the bed a second time within the first year or so if you want to split up the work though.

 

[Furbee86]

If I were doing it, I'd lift the bed, hands down. Raising and lowering a fuel tank is no fun, and the tank straps & fasteners are not easy to get back in place.
Did you check voltage going to the pump, or just check that the rollover & relay were in place? The relay should click for a short run at key ON, and voltage should appear at the rollover on both sides. Given you heard a short 'click' near the tank, I make the assumption you figure the pump is done.
One other test is to ground pin 6 of the DLC as noted here:

https://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=65300

When the Data Link Connector pin is grounded, the fuel pump should run 100% of the time, as I remember. The pin must be grounded to pull codes from an EEC-IV system, and it turns on the fuel pump relay, and the pump should run. I think. Been a while.
So, if you can get the pump running by that method, it ain't the pump, it's a relay, bad ground, etc. Look up the schematic, maybe at Autozone, and see what's involve before doing all the work. A 'click' is good, but it may only be a click because of other faulty or badly grounded things.
tom

The links in that thread are dead. Here i go sounding new. What is dlc.and pin 6..i googled and came up empty. Every other time ive ran koeo test (before this issue) i could hear the fuel pump clicking on and it was loud.

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[Mark_88]

DLC is Data Link Connector...it is listed below the acronym in the next paragraph.

The link worked fine for me but maybe it timed out when you tried it before...it is working now.

 

[Furbee86]

DLC is Data Link Connector...it is listed below the acronym in the next paragraph.

The link worked fine for me but maybe it timed out when you tried it before...it is working now.

Sorry i meant to say the picture link. So would that be the connector i plug into my obd ? Im new to this. And how would i ground it. Tonight im gonna lube up the bed bolts and try and see if i can get to the pump tomorrow. Im currently driving my wifes car and she is pissed all can be. If i hear that i bought a pos 1 more time from her my heads gonna explode. This is my only vehicle besides her car..

 

[Mark_88]

I hear you loud and clear...unfortunately...that happens...but you can fix this and it isn't complicated.

The reference tom made was to the plug connecting the fuel pump to the computer, yes. If there is a ground fault somewhere it will cause the pump to not be activated properly. There is probably a way to test that connection such as finding the corresponding pin for power and ground (unless it is grounded via the computer as some things are) and seeing how much is supposed to be there (12 v or 5 v or whatever).

If there is not enough power from the computer it indicates a fault. If there is enough power then the pump needs to be replaced.

EDIT: wrong wording was corrected below in bold...

Get a voltmeter if you can and when you pull the bed up test the power to the pump with the key on. That is when the pump is primed and there should be 5-12 volts DC there. Not sure but I'd say closer to 12. If NOT...replace the pump.

You can do that under the hood if you can trace the wire from the computer but it's better to work backwards from the pump if there is a problem. Just remember that it will be a very short power burst because the pump doesn't run all the time.

You can also reverse test it by simply applying power to the pump directly for short bursts and if it runs the pump is probably good. The same way a shop will test starters or other parts. Not rocket science but it helps to know what pins are used and that just requires finding the right diagram.

Personally I would simply grab a pump and connect it to the DLC and turn the key. If the pump works then you've solved the problem. Do not run the pump dry though...that can burn them out if your run them too long...gas cools the pump.

I've been working on these trucks for a long time (not as long as others) and there is a need to determine what is wrong before replacing parts...problem is that the ground fault is quite possible but I've heard of pump failure much more often than problems with the computer.

But that doesn't mean it isn't possible.

 

[Furbee86]

I hear you loud and clear...unfortunately...that happens...but you can fix this and it isn't complicated.

The reference tom made was to the plug connecting the fuel pump to the computer, yes. If there is a ground fault somewhere it will cause the pump to not be activated properly. There is probably a way to test that connection such as finding the corresponding pin for power and ground (unless it is grounded via the computer as some things are) and seeing how much is supposed to be there (12 v or 5 v or whatever).

If there is not enough power from the computer it indicates a fault. If there is enough power then the pump needs to be replaced.

EDIT: wrong wording was corrected below in bold...

Get a voltmeter if you can and when you pull the bed up test the power to the pump with the key on. That is when the pump is primed and there should be 5-12 volts DC there. Not sure but I'd say closer to 12. If NOT...replace the pump.

You can do that under the hood if you can trace the wire from the computer but it's better to work backwards from the pump if there is a problem. Just remember that it will be a very short power burst because the pump doesn't run all the time.

You can also reverse test it by simply applying power to the pump directly for short bursts and if it runs the pump is probably good. The same way a shop will test starters or other parts. Not rocket science but it helps to know what pins are used and that just requires finding the right diagram.

Personally I would simply grab a pump and connect it to the DLC and turn the key. If the pump works then you've solved the problem. Do not run the pump dry though...that can burn them out if your run them too long...gas cools the pump.

I've been working on these trucks for a long time (not as long as others) and there is a need to determine what is wrong before replacing parts...problem is that the ground fault is quite possible but I've heard of pump failure much more often than problems with the computer.

But that doesn't mean it isn't possible.

Check power at the connector at fuel pump and had power. So i took the pump out and sure enough... Dead. Replaced with new pump/sender. Started right up.. Now back to my previous problem. Check engine light.. Errors 223 and 998.. Had neither code before i changed the plugs and wires a few weeks back. Checked the gaps and made sure wires were connected properly as i did them 1 at a time

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[Furbee86]

Should i start a new thread? I discovered driver side coil pack 1 and 4 are not sparking. May have found cause of error 224 and 998.

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[Mark_88]

Good work on the pump...

Yes, it is better to start a new thread for a new issue. If someone joins in now and reads the whole thread they won't know until the end that it is resolved and something new needed. Just saves time.