tbunch
New Member
- Joined
- May 2, 2016
- Messages
- 52
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 0
- Location
- North Salt Lake, UT
- Vehicle Year
- 1994
- Make / Model
- Mazda
- Engine Size
- 4.0L
- Transmission
- Manual
Finally got everything buttoned up with my stock 4.0 rebuild, but now I'm stumped! The engine cranks over strong and the battery is fully charged but it won't start. (Motor ran good before rebuild)
I think I've ruled out a fuel delivery problem as I'm getting a strong 35psi on the fuel rail while cranking, , I'm reading 12v on the injector hot wires (the 3 that I could get to at least), I know the injectors are all good as I bench tested/cleaned each one, spraying starter fluid into the intake does nothing.
As far as spark goes I seem to be getting spark according to my spark test light (the kind that goes between the wire and plug), but I only tested cylinder 1. I also read 12v from the power wire to the ignition distributor box. But I suppose the box could be bad (worked great before rebuild).
My thinking is that the CKP sensor may be bad, but I'm unsure how to test them, as I understand the CMP sensor only controls sequential fuel injection so even if it's misaligned it shouldn't cause a no start? Or finally the distributor box could be bad, but I'm also unsure hot to test this.
I know this is a long question but I'm trying to get this done today if possible, I'm looking for anything I may have missed that could cause a crank no start with solid fuel pressure, thanks all in advance!
I think I've ruled out a fuel delivery problem as I'm getting a strong 35psi on the fuel rail while cranking, , I'm reading 12v on the injector hot wires (the 3 that I could get to at least), I know the injectors are all good as I bench tested/cleaned each one, spraying starter fluid into the intake does nothing.
As far as spark goes I seem to be getting spark according to my spark test light (the kind that goes between the wire and plug), but I only tested cylinder 1. I also read 12v from the power wire to the ignition distributor box. But I suppose the box could be bad (worked great before rebuild).
My thinking is that the CKP sensor may be bad, but I'm unsure how to test them, as I understand the CMP sensor only controls sequential fuel injection so even if it's misaligned it shouldn't cause a no start? Or finally the distributor box could be bad, but I'm also unsure hot to test this.
I know this is a long question but I'm trying to get this done today if possible, I'm looking for anything I may have missed that could cause a crank no start with solid fuel pressure, thanks all in advance!