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99 Explorer Clutch Questions


UrbanRedneckKid

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O yeah and the clutch has a 12 month/ 12,000 mile warranty
That's sweet! So your clutch goes out and you have to tear your truck apart, mail out parts, hope they actually approve the warranty, wait for them to mail you another one, then finally put it back together. That's at least a 2 week process.

I'd prefer to do it all the same day. And the stores have never disapproved a warranty for me, even if it was obviously abused.

Truthfully, I haven't bought a clutch in 5 years... Didn't you say you had a buddy at the parts store...

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jkufen

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is that clip the same as the clips on the fuel lines where you pull the clamp off and the line slides off
 

jkufen

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How does the transfer case attach to the transmission. I have watched videos and have a good understanding how a 2wd trans comes out but the transfer case screws me up. Does the t-case have to come out with the trans which means the front drive shaft has to come out or can the trans drop while leaving the t-case in?
 

UrbanRedneckKid

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Have you even looked under the truck...?

It's sorta self explanatory...

Unbolt both shafts,
Unhook all connections to case,
Support case,
Unbolt case,
Remove case.

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jkufen

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no i havent looked under the truck yet. It's at my dads house and every time I have went down there I have been working on my Bronco. I knew it needed a clutch but I havent crawled under there and looked at the setup. So it's pretty much as easy as I thought it was unbolt the t-case and stick a jack stand underneath it and bring out the trans. I am going down there tomorrow to crawl under it for the first time since I bought it 2 months ago. I am going to pull the trans out and check everything out while I am waiting for my parts to come in.
 

UrbanRedneckKid

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This is basic, self explanatory, stuff.
Remove both shafts.
Remove the t-case.
Remove the transmission.

Just get some tools and get under it. It's not as difficult as you think.

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PetesPonies

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Why not own a repair manual???
 

jkufen

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I am going to go get one this week. I went to my dads today after class this morning and we got underneath and just looked at it. I was going to start taking parts out but I just soaked everything with PB Blaster. We established that the y-pipe is going to be a PITA to cut the bolts out of. I can use a cutting wheel on two but the top one I am going to have to go buy a new saw zaw to get it out. I just ordered new U-joints, rear main seal, and a rear pinion seal. Today was the first time I actually looked underneath it and it is pretty well rusted. It is originally from Maine. I need to drop the oil pan and clean it out but looking at it it looks nearly impossible to do while still in the truck the front couple bolts look impossible to get to. I also ordered new parts like rotors, pads, shocks etc. so I will have my 3 days off next week full. I have next Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday off from work and it's our spring break so I will have from sun up to sun down to work on it.
 

UrbanRedneckKid

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If you have access and the ability, cut the lower section of the left y-pipe with a sawz-all, then weld it back in. My truck way born and raised on the east coast, the bolts would have been impossible to remove. I was able to cut and weld it for the tranny 7 times before it was too much to redo again. The reason that I now have headers...

And your assumption on the oil pan is correct. It cannot be removed without pulling the engine up and/or out completely.

And another rid bit I've learned, once your tranny is out, there is a pinch weld where the firewall meets the trans tunnel. Pound it rearward and flat w/ a 3lb hammer(shoot some paint on the cracked paint). It gives you quite a bit of bellhousing clearance for installing and removal, also better access to the bellhousing bolts.

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jkufen

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Yeah if i cant get the bolts out i will cut the pipe. I cant weld but ill put in a coupling and bolt it together with clamps.
 

UrbanRedneckKid

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That won't work, it ends up being cut on bends.

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jkufen

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I guess im gonna hope i can get the bolts out then
 

jkufen

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Any tips on changing the rear main seal? I bought the seal with the wear sleeve i figured while i had the trans and everything out i may as well change the seal because im losing a good bit of oil.
 

UrbanRedneckKid

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Yeah. Take the flywheel off first or you'll have a hell of a time.

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jkufen

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lol i am going to assume you are being sarcastic or I should ask can you even do it with the flywheel still on?
 

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