- Joined
- Apr 13, 2009
- Messages
- 13,976
- Reaction score
- 5,131
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Calgary, Canada
- Vehicle Year
- '91, '80, '06
- Make / Model
- Ford, GMC,Dodge
- Engine Size
- 4.0,4.0,5.7
- Transmission
- Manual
- 2WD / 4WD
- 4WD
Rain forecast pushed the job back till next week. So I spent the day getting parts for the truck and finishing the hose routing. I modified the thermostat housing so it would be easier to connect to the tube going to the rad, unfortunately it has a pinhole leak. I'll fix it next time.;
Here is the final rad position I chose. I put a fairly hard 3/8" strip of rubber between the rad and the cross-member. I then screwed the bottom of the rad to the cross-member to hold it from moving. I then used a couple of long "bolts" that are used to hold wire drums together. I bent the end and threaded it thru a hole then connected the end to the rad Still to come is a piece that will connect the side of the rad tanks to the frame, hopefully preventing the rad from moving up or down while going over jumps or when landing. The rad I took out of the front has a noticable bow along the bottom, because it was supported at the tanks only.;
Here's the modified thermostat housing with a wheel rim inflation air valve at the top. This is to get rid of trapped air as this is the highest point at the front of the truck. These work great, I've used one in the heater hose fill cap ever since I first r+r'd the motor on this truck years ago. They are rated to 65 psi. I use it for pressure testing before I fill with rad fluid. I found leaks at every joint...glad I did this instead of losing fluid.;
Some brackets I modified to hold the tubes from rattling in the firewall holes I drilled. I use hose-clamps to hold them to the tube and screw the clamp to the firewall;
Final hoses clamped and testing pressure;
Pressure testing;
So far I've spent ~$80.00 on hoses, $40.00 on clamps, and $20.00 on emt tube. The rad I got in trade for two 15"x10" aluminum turbine rims 5x5.5"
Still to do is mount the overflow tank, fabricate a shroud and mount electric fans and associated wiring and switches.
Here is the final rad position I chose. I put a fairly hard 3/8" strip of rubber between the rad and the cross-member. I then screwed the bottom of the rad to the cross-member to hold it from moving. I then used a couple of long "bolts" that are used to hold wire drums together. I bent the end and threaded it thru a hole then connected the end to the rad Still to come is a piece that will connect the side of the rad tanks to the frame, hopefully preventing the rad from moving up or down while going over jumps or when landing. The rad I took out of the front has a noticable bow along the bottom, because it was supported at the tanks only.;
Here's the modified thermostat housing with a wheel rim inflation air valve at the top. This is to get rid of trapped air as this is the highest point at the front of the truck. These work great, I've used one in the heater hose fill cap ever since I first r+r'd the motor on this truck years ago. They are rated to 65 psi. I use it for pressure testing before I fill with rad fluid. I found leaks at every joint...glad I did this instead of losing fluid.;
Some brackets I modified to hold the tubes from rattling in the firewall holes I drilled. I use hose-clamps to hold them to the tube and screw the clamp to the firewall;
Final hoses clamped and testing pressure;
Pressure testing;
So far I've spent ~$80.00 on hoses, $40.00 on clamps, and $20.00 on emt tube. The rad I got in trade for two 15"x10" aluminum turbine rims 5x5.5"
Still to do is mount the overflow tank, fabricate a shroud and mount electric fans and associated wiring and switches.
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