ATTN: guys running xj coils

[Str8sixfan]

Hopefully it will have the fixed front yoke. If not, I wouldn't bother getting it.

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damn. I just got home maybe 1.5hr ago...It's a slip yoke.

 

[escort_gts]

damn. I just got home maybe 1.5hr ago...It's a slip yoke.

So you got it? Hmm. I know where a 1354M is. Where are you located?

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[Str8sixfan]

Pretty much KCK.

That's Kansas City, Kansas. I see you're from Indiana. So if you're coming to the Nascar race on April 22nd, I'm just west of the racetrack maybe 12miles.

 

[cdawall]

You need at least 4 inches of lift to keep the pumpkin from smaking the crossmember.

I am at roughly 4-5" of lift with a D60 which has a lot more pumpkin than a D30. I can tell you without a doubt you can clear a D30 at stock ride height. Mainly because the D35 TTB has the pumpkin in the same spot a D30 would and it is in fact larger. A D44 will be similar.

 

[Str8sixfan]

my truck's currently a 2wd, so that might make some difference.

So what's the #1 problem I'll run into having a slip yoke front driveshaft? Is it just the likelihood of tearing something up because of how the yoke engages in the case? Like stripping the teeth when it gets in a bind? Or is it just the likelihood of it falling out of the case when I put my front suspension in extreme angles? Total newb here. I'm not building this to be a trail warrior. I really am just trying to have a project to just teach myself fabrication skills, and to have something I can drive in the winter when mother nature dumps a ton of snow on us.

Sure I might take it to the trail once a year or something, but the nearest one is 1.5hr away and I don't have the resources to trailer it. I'd be more likely to go muddin' on a whim with my buddies, likely about 1 a year.

 

[escort_gts]

Ok. I see what you want to do. A daily driver with mild off-road use.
The problem with the slip shaft is that the u-joint at the transfer case end is really small. Smaller than a 1210 u-joint. But, for mostly street use it should be fine.
Since you don't plan on any hardcore wheeling and tons of suspension articulation I don't think the driveshaft will fall out. Deciplerocks used the same t-case and front driveshaft and never had a problem. And he wheeled it hard.

What size tires do you plan to run?
Did you get the front driveshaft with the transfer case? If you didn't, I have one sittingin my garage collecting dust.

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[Str8sixfan]

Ok. I see what you want to do. A daily driver with mild off-road use.
The problem with the slip shaft is that the u-joint at the transfer case end is really small. Smaller than a 1210 u-joint. But, for mostly street use it should be fine.
Since you don't plan on any hardcore wheeling and tons of suspension articulation I don't think the driveshaft will fall out. Deciplerocks used the same t-case and front driveshaft and never had a problem. And he wheeled it hard.

What size tires do you plan to run?
Did you get the front driveshaft with the transfer case? If you didn't, I have one sittingin my garage collecting dust.

My build is very very similar to CollinrMitchel(?)'s but I'm still going back and forth between coils and leafs.

Either 33x12.50s or 305/70/16s...I still need a front driveshaft, what do you want for it?

 

[dangerranger83]

Im currently running the BW1350 with the front slip yoke and all has been fine for me. Only thing was it costed me $140 to have my shaft extended (and they just ended up making a new one and reused the ends) but have not had any binding in it and I have 5 inches of lift in the front and even flexed out it hasnt shown any signs of slipping out.

Im currently running 32x12.50x15 M/T tires.

 

[Str8sixfan]

The problem with the slip shaft is that the u-joint at the transfer case end is really small. Smaller than a 1210 u-joint.

So in theory one could get a machine shop to machine the splined portion of the yoke to accept a bigger u-joint and circumvent this issue.

 

[dangerranger83]

Or one could get a transfercase with either a fixed yoke or a flange and make life easier, cheaper and stronger in the end.

I do agree, the ujont is small (currently have one) but a few weeks ago when my truck was only FWD (I broke the rear output yoke), I was doing FWD burnouts with it and it held up just fine plus did 100+ miles of mixed driving with it.

heres a picture of my front driveshaft right went I got it back from being extended 2 inches (aka a new shaft with the factory ends reused) the front ujoint that has the duct tape is a 1310 ujoint.

 

[escort_gts]

So in theory one could get a machine shop to machine the splined portion of the yoke to accept a bigger u-joint and circumvent this issue.

I guess you could. Depending on the cost.

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[Str8sixfan]

I know it might not be the most feasible proposition...I mean, it might be more cost effective to find another tcase in the long run, but I have buddies/connections inside of machine shops that I might be able to get them to do this fairly reasonable or something.

 

[escort_gts]

I know it might not be the most feasible proposition...I mean, it might be more cost effective to find another tcase in the long run, but I have buddies/connections inside of machine shops that I might be able to get them to do this fairly reasonable or something.

I say just run the stock driveshaft and if it starts giving you problems then get a custom one made.



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[Str8sixfan]

that's probably what I'll do, unless I have to get a custom driveshaft made, I might just have the shop weld a larger connection for a larger u-joint at the same time.

 

[escort_gts]

I say run what you have. Look for a 1354m and swap it at that time. Then you can use an explorer front driveshaft.

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