On a long box 7foot bed the Bronco2 can be mounted behind the axle, though I've
never checked the clearance path for the filler tube.
Though a 2" body lift is more or less required unless you take special pains
to intentionally mount the tank lower than stock, using both frame crossmembers
from the bronco2 donor (the bronco2 crossmembers are different from Ranger crossmembers)
The first issue is that the Bronco2 tank has a higher profile because the floor is higher relative to the frame.
On a Short box 6 foot bed you get two MAJOR interferences besides the height and needing to replace the
rear most crossmember and add in the front fuel tank crossmember from a Bronco2, the first problem is a
big one... that is the tank occupies the space where the left upper shock mount goes, wanna fabricate an
"outboard" shock setup?
The other problem is just as bad if not worse, the filler pipe on the tank is "aimed" so that you have to
eliminate the middle bed mount and a big piece of the bed support box member.
(OR you could relocate the filler pipe in the Bronco2 tank more to the rear (by about 6"))
I was planning on using a bronco2 tank, but even having a bare frame on jackstands a "loose" Bronco2
tank, Bronco2 crossmembers and several years so I could study the problem and I came up empty...
The tank I used in the back of my Supercab shortbox Ranger is the rear tank
out of an F350/F450 "Dually" This tank is PLASTIC and mounts via straps to the skid-plate for the tank.
The skid-plate is in turn bolted to crossmembers on the frame.
In my Case I used a piece of 2" square tubing for the front crossmember and a piece of 2" angle steel
welded to the side plates for my receiver hitch for the back crossmember.
The wiring is factory wiring from a supecab ranger as is the tank selector switch and Six port selector
valve (pressure AND return fuel are normally switched by this valve)
HOWEVER that's where the "Factory" part ends... my fuel lines are hand made.
And the tank selector valve has been disassembled and the O-rings removed
for the valve parts for the supply ports The Pressure side), because I'm
running high pressure pumps in both tanks (I've eliminated the frame mounted high pressure pump)
and the six port selector valve is simply not designed for high-pressure operation
The return side of the valve is running as designed)
What I used instead of the selector valve are one way check valves EXTERNAL to the tank
unit that allow fuel to flow out of the pump but not back-flow.
The reason for this is a simple but critically important one.
THE issue you need to prevent in a multi-tank fuel system is unintended "crossfeeding" between
the tanks, the thing is the check valve normally built into the pumps and in-tank units is notoriously
unreliable and if you are running off of one tank and fuel is leaking past the outflow check valve on
the other tank which happens to be full... lets just say "bad sh!t" can happen and I'm talking "Bad"
by the ghostbusters definition...
IF you intentionally are setting up a system where the aux tank pumps to the primary pump
you are very prone to a disaster caused by operator malfunction"
Where you have the possibility of trying to transfer MORE fuel tank to a tank that has less capacity
than you think...
This can happen in any of several ways, the "elegant" way to avoid it is to set up a system that is
triggered by a momentary switch that "times out" after a period under load...
There is an exsisting way of accomplishing this... say for instance you used the rear window defogger
control from a bronco2 that has a relay driven by a thermo time switch, after several minutes the circuit
switches itself off. the only thing you'd need to determine
is how much fuel would be transfered by each activation of the switch....
I went with a true dual tank system with seperate in-tank high pressure pumps.
This way I am essentially driving around with two high pressure pumps so if one fails I still have a
functioning engine.... the worst that can happen is I lose access to the fuel in the non functioning
tank. This has happened, three seperate times when one of the high pressure pumps simply died.
i should note that I actually have a third tank mounted in the bed (disguised as an aluminum diamond
plate toolbox) it holds another 40gallons.
That tank has a low-pressure pump installed, but that pump has it's internal check valve removed so
that fuel from that tank will actually gravity feed to the tanks mounted under the truck... AND I have
the onboard capability to start a gravity feed without power or pumping... it only takes a closing one
valve that is inline with the tank vent line, opening another line and applying a small ammount of gas
or air pressure to the tank... I have a hand pump for this purpose
I've used both CO2 and Propane to push fuel around.
Propane is good for this puropse because it's LESS flammable and LESS explosive than gasoline fumes
and more importantly unlike air it won't make a bad situation (gas fume filled tank) worse.
If I'm planning welding on (or near) my truck I'm also setup to evacuate gasoline
vapors from my fuel tanks with Carbon Dioxide. But I'd rather discuss "inert gas ullage" of fuel
tanks in a seperate discussion.
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