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Best way to remove manifold studs?


danger88ranger

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I have an 87 ranger with a 2.9 and a rusted out h-pipe. I bought a y-pipe and made a custom flange at the end of it to run a single 2.5 pipe to a high flow cat and a cherry bomb running out before the rear tire. I was looking at my manifold studs today and was wondering if the studs thread into the manifold or just slide through? The right side studs slide through but i'm not sure on the left side due to the rusted on studs. Any ideas?
 


WhiteBroncoII2WD

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I have an 87 ranger with a 2.9 and a rusted out h-pipe. I bought a y-pipe and made a custom flange at the end of it to run a single 2.5 pipe to a high flow cat and a cherry bomb running out before the rear tire. I was looking at my manifold studs today and was wondering if the studs thread into the manifold or just slide through? The right side studs slide through but i'm not sure on the left side due to the rusted on studs. Any ideas?

You're going to have trouble no matter how you go about it. My first step would be to soak it good with some PB Blaster. Is the head of the bolt rusted so bad that you can't get a socket on it?
 

danger88ranger

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No, their not that bad. Is the stud threaded into the manifold or does it slide through it?
 

gotmudd

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No, their not that bad. Is the stud threaded into the manifold or does it slide through it?
if you are talking about that portion of the manifold that the pipe flange connects to, it is threaded into the manifold. if you don't have any wiring in the way or if you can move existing wiring out of the way, a combination of heat, applied with propane torch, and GENEROUS amounts of PB blast will solve the problem. step one:heat stud with propane torch, get it real hot. step two: spray the hell out of it with PB blast, it'll smoke like a bitch, don't get your face in the fumes. do that 2-3 times and after the last treatment of PB blast, let it soak for at least a half hour before trying to take off nuts. the application of heat will speed up the soaking process by metal expansion, allowing the PB blast to siphon between the threads loosening any rust/corrosion :)
 

mkpecor

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i took my manifold off to do a freez plug awhile back and all of them snaped except two. use PB blaster the night befor so it soaks in over night. i had to drill the studs out and nut and bolt them. now since i did that i shouldent have a prob next time i take them off. good luck!!
 

IDontCare

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i snapped off a few too. they just break easy.. replace them all. i ended up getting 2 out with vise grips and the last one i had to drill it and re thread with a tap.. pita! the hole didn't match up so i tried again with the tap and it snapped off in there.. its still in there but it doesn't leak.
 

danger88ranger

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Thanks for the help everyone. I managed to twist off all the studs except one because it didnt have a nut on it. One of them twisted off and would not come out at all, took me all afternoon to get it out by drilling it out. Got the y-pipe with all new bolts put in. Tomorrow i'm going put the cat and cherry bomb on. Then i get to go to summit racing and buy another mandrel bent 90 degree bend pipe and 3 inch tip to finish it all off. Hopefully i can get an exhaust tone i like.
 

khooper

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Try the Easy-Out. The ones that look like a socket work best if you have some type of head left on the bolt. Drill the hole and insert the Easy-Out, then heat it up before you try to remove it. If all else fails you can drill it out.
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You are dealing the the where the Y-pipe bolts up to the manifolds rather than the cylinder heads right?
 

danger88ranger

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You are dealing the the where the Y-pipe bolts up to the manifolds rather than the cylinder heads right?
Yes, sorry if i made that unclear.
 

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