Carb Identification Help

[superds]

When I bought an 84 BII it came with a couple boxes of parts, of which there were three carbs, a 4 barrel and two 2 barrels.

The BII wasn't running and had a half complete Duraspark conversion on it and I'm now working on getting it finished. It now starts and runs briefely (no more than a minute yet and will barely idle on its own). I'd like to rebuilt the carb but it still has the TFI feedback carb on it so I'd like to put a more appropriate carb on it. Which brings me to the box of extra carbs. I'm fairly certain the two barrel carbs are 2150s or 2100s and are probably also in need of a rebuild. I took them into the auto parts store today to get a rebuild kit but we couldn't positively identify either of them or what they came from. We tried looking up several random vehicles from 76-83 that came with 2150s but they all have different rebuild kits!

So, my question is, can anyone identify the carbs in the two pictures so I can locate a rebuild kit for them?

Sorry the pictures aren't the greatest, they were from my phone. If anyone needs more let me know.

The first one has a 9 cast into the bottom and 1.08 cast into the side as well as 24EA stamped into the side of the base.

The second one has a 7 cast into the bottom and 1.08 cast into the side as well as 30EA stamped into the side of the base.

Thanks for the help!

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The first one I believe is the 2150 and the second one is the 2100. The way to tell is the vacuum pulloff for the choke. I was able to use the choke assy from my feedback carb on the 2150. It has the pulloff pod on the back of the carb and the preheater vacuum port is plugged on the nonfeedback choke. I didnt have the carb number but it is a 1.08 venturi pull the top off the carb and match up the float gasket is about all you can do. everything else is probably the same externally just be careful pulling out the venturi cluster if it is stuck get a gallon of carb cleaner and soak the carb 24hrs fully submerged pulling as much rubber you can off and use the right screwdriver to pull the jets but you can use the jets out of the feedback carb also.Pull the top off the first carb get a pic of the top and one of the bottom with the power valve cover off to tell if it has the 2 stage power valve.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Autolite-2100-2150-carb-carburetor-kit-TOP-Quality-/150703482892?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2316a0a80c I was able to find my kit by using pics like this to compare the parts in my carb.

 

[superds]

Thanks for the info. I bought a carb kit for a late '70s Mustang 2.8 (2150), looks like it had everything I needed. I got it rebuilt and back on the engine, now I just need to tune it so it doesn't keep dying at idle.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Get the carb spacer felpro # 60529 for around $20 it will fix the vacuum leak on the bottom of the carb where the throttle position sensor used to be on the feedback carb. Also you can surface the bottom of the carb just glue a piece of 180 grit to a flat board and slowly work the base of the carb so it scratches evenly across the bottom then use a new gasket between the new spacer and carb snug it down do not overtighten it. Did you put the choke assy off the feedback carb onto the 2150 if so you dont need to worry about the vacuum leak going to the choke assy if not there is a vacuum port next to one of the mounting screws for the choke preheater tube that needs to be plugged also. If you take a length of vacuum line while the engine is running put one end up to your ear and search around with the other end for vacuum leaks. stick it in the carb so you know what to listen for. Ckeck all the gaskets and fittings you can also isolate exhaust leaks also.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Oh yea did you do the wet float adjustment, Pull the top off the carb and measure the fuel level in the float bowl you want around 3/4 an inch from the top of the bowl to the center of the fuel not on the edge. Then you can adjust the idle air.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

You can run the engine with the top off the carb and you want to pull the float out and bend the arm to adjust the level never put any pressure on the float needle.

 

[superds]

Lots of good information here. I'll look deeper into the vacuum leak when I get a chance to work on it again later this week.

Of the three carbs that came with this vehicle, none were with fully functioning chokes so I tried to piece together as best as I could for now, but it's not electrically functional (no electric module) so I have to close it by hand.

There was a pretty thick carb spacer on it when I took the carb off and there was another one in the carb rebuild kit I bought, probably 3/8 - 7/16" thick. Do you think I still need the Felpro spacer you mentioned?

I did a dry float adjustment when I was rebuilding and set it to 3/8" (recommended setting for 75-77 Mustang 2.8 carb). I'll try to do a wet float adjustment later this week.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

You will need the felpro spacer it is as thick as the stock spacer you took off and will permanently fix the vacuum leak on the base of the carb. I just used all the choke pieces off the feedback carb and used a choke thermostat from a late 70s carb. I wired it to the key on hot from the coil. Allmost two years now all I have to do is push the pedal to the floor once and start it. It goes in gear without a warm up (unless I need to scrape the windows) its nice. I found that every time you pull the carb it needs a new gasket when you tighten it down so I just make my own. The felpro spacer has a gasket on both sides but they are real hard so clean the metal good before you put the spacer on and put another gasket between the carb and spacer. I also adjusted the idle air with A CO sensor at the tailpipe. I adjusted the air for the highest possible rpm turned then in evenly until I got no CO then one at a tim back out until it reads CO and slowly back in. Both idle air screws are about 2 3/4 each now and getting around 17 mpg hwy miles. I hope to improve that when I go through the tranny as soon as I get the time weather permitting.

 

[dangerranger83]

One thing that I heard of using if you take carbs apart often or gaskets like those is to use chapstick on the gasket surface. Makes having them come apart easier and little to no scraping of gaskets.

 

[superds]

Thanks for the help guys. It's running now, most of the vacuum leaks are taken care of. Still need to tune it a bit, worked on it today but didn't get all the way through tuning it with all the runs to the store to get random parts (trying to fix exhasut leaks as well).

 

[superds]

Well, I finally gave up on the box of carbs. The one I rebuilt leaked at the throttle plate shaft and the other two seemed to have just as much play in the shaft. I could never get it to run very well. I also had a leak at the bottom of the aluminum EGR carb spacer, picked up a gasket for that as well and replaced it.

I ordered a rebuilt carb for a '79 Mustang 302 (any for late 70s 2.8s either weren't in stock or were for auto transmissions) assuming it would be 1.08 venturi, maybe with different jets. It ended up being a 1.21 venturi. I put it on anyway since I was getting fed up with dealing with this carb issue. It ran great!

I took it for a test drive and it seemed to have pretty good power and would only bog down if you floored it right around 1000 rpm. However, upon further inspection after turning off the engine I noticed this one also leaks a bit around the throttle plate shaft, but not nearly as bad as the old carb I had on there. Frustrating! I'm not sure if I'm going to send it back or just live with it since it's only a small amount of fuel that leaks out (and air that gets sucked in) but otherwise runs good.

 

[dangerranger83]

A fuel leak could result in an under the hood fire...just ask me about that one.

 

[superds]

I hate when you guys talk me into doing the right thing.

The leak is barely perceptible, only showing moisture around the shaft until you put a finger on it and can get a very small drop to form. I'll check into how much a pain it will be to get a replacement.