Dave's '93 Ranger Build

[93bushtruck]

Hey, long time no see I finally got around to putting that manual 1350 T case in. Started by taking the skid plate off

Those wont be re used

Driveshafts out of the way

The main reason I finally did this, this gasket leaks a fair bit

The old electric on the right, Manual on the left. The electric case and manual case have different bolt threads that hold them to the transmission. I thought I could get around this by changing front covers, but there wasnt enough shifter clearance. Took me an hour and a half to scrounge up 5 grade 8 bolts that fit

And now the case is in, just need my BII front dirveshaft for the slip yoke, and to make a shifter. Im a hot rodder at heart, so I only want to buy parts if Im absolutely positive I cant make or rebuild it.

Lack of a front driveshaft didnt stop me from 'shop crawling'

Mad curb flex bro!

Oh, and the 1350M tcase takes ATF, right?

Cheers guys

 

[getrdone52]

Bout damn time lol.

 

[93bushtruck]

Yea, Ive been putting it off for so long but since insurance recently ran up and I cant afford to renew ATM, I figured why not? lol

 

[93bushtruck]

Can anyone help me with some wiring? Id like the 4x4 lights on the dash to come on by themselves lol. Theres a 2 pin plug on the transfer case by the shifter, I assume this works the lights? And I guess I need a wiring diagram for the dash indicator lights

 

[getrdone52]

I didn't use the lights on my dash but I think there is a brown wire coming out of the case that controls lights. Don't take my word for it that's just what I read somewhere

 

[93bushtruck]

My case just has a little 2 pin plug above the little shift arm. But I cant see how the 2 pins would work to operate both the 4x4 and low range lights. Hell even if I incorporate 2 door pin switches into my shifter mechanism, Ill figure out a way to make those lights work. Those lights are part of the fun lol

 

[93bushtruck]

So I got bored in my auto class and drew up a diagram for my lights, lol. Im assuming the 2 pin switch on the transfer case closes the circuit regardless as to wether its in 4h or 4l, and is only used for one light. So basically, I run 12v through that and into the plain old "4X4" light. Off that 12v power, I run into an NC door pin switch (like the one that controls the dome light) that is located in my shifter mechanism (in the 4H position). So when I take it out of 4H that switch closes, allowing current to flow through to the "LOW RANGE" light. And cause of the switch on the T case selector, nothing will work in the 2H or N position. Atleast thats the plan...

 

[93bushtruck]

Just noticed this how-to:
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126558

I think Im going to grab just the splined slip yoke piece from the 1350 shaft and a conversion U-joint and modify my current driveshaft. Ideally I would keep the double cardan with the slip yoke on the one and shorten the driveshaft as need be. But knowing the wrecking yards around here the slip yoke piece would be the same price as a whole driveshaft, haha. Being 17 with no job I try to do as much as I can for as cheap as I can lol. If my electric transfer case hasnt sold by saturday Im gonna take it to the scrapper, need the cash. Oh and the 4x4 control computer is being ditched for subwoofer space, might throw that on evilbay.

 

[93bushtruck]

Today I started with a bit of bodywork. I was able to hammer out 99.9% of my caved in bedside, when I get around to a bodylift I will finish it when the bed is off and upside down



Then I started making a shifter for the manual transfer case. First thing I noticed was that the bracket that holds the transfer case vent hose was almost the perfect shape, so I took it off and I straightened it out



Then I got busy and didnt take any pictures, but basically I welded some angle iron to that arm, and some 1" tubing to the angle iron. There is also a pivot that goes through the arm and the angle iron, that threads into the trasnmission. Heres just before finish welding. Its really crude I know, but it works



From under the vehicle. At first I thought I could get away with a closed slot for the shift fork, but it limited travel just enought to not engage 4lo, so I had to open it up



Then started inside, I sure had my choice of boots



I notched the plate on the floor, threw the boot on and ended up with this




I modified my console to fit, and voila!




Untill next time,

 

[93bushtruck]

Pulled a driveshaft for my 1350 today. Came from a black 84 BII with a 3"BL and exploder front driveshaft in the rear, and some other mods at pick a part in chilliwack. I wonder if he is on here? It looks a bit short to me, so If it is Im going to shorten my stock driveshaft and put the slip yoke piece on the end of the double cardan

 

[93bushtruck]

So I made my driveshaft today. After looking at it I had 2 options. Either extend the BII shaft about 2 inches, or put the slip yoke on the stock shaft and shorten it quite a bit. Ultimately I thought that shortening the stock one would result in a stronger joint, I would think having 2 welds would be vulnerable to more torsional movement. I originally wanted to keep the double cardan with the slip yoke, but I forgot about the center pin. I couldnt see a way I could make it work. So heres what I did, Ill put it in a how to format for anyone else doing this swap.

Total time too about 5 hours, or about 4 beers and a pepsi. If your not confident in welding, dont do this yourself. I am not responsible for anything you do to your truck or any damage that may come from it...

So I started with both shafts on the bench. Once the splined piece is off the BII put it aside. Then take the double cardan off the stock shaft. The 4wd on mine hasnt worked since about 1996, so the U joints were a bit stiff. Then you have to cut the center cross piece off the stock shaft, that went in the center ball of the double cardan.


Then I stuck the splined yoke on the shaft, made sure it moved nicely, then stuck it in the truck to check how much I had to chop. Needed to lose about 3 inches


So how I went about this, is I sliced the weld at the transfer case end of the shaft, right on the weld about 1/8-3/16th of an inch deep. Then you can seperate the yoke insert from the tubing. Its super snug, so if it doesnt come at first dont be discouraged.


Now at this point, assuming you havent already and you are of legal age, crack open a beer and drink it down. This helps steady the hand and cut straight. I put a couple tape lines to follow to cut straight. Make sure its hella square, I spent about 20 minutes squaring it up.


At this point I stuck the yoke end back in the tube loosely and double checked the fit in the truck, and she was good. Press it in untill you have about a 1/8th inch gap between it and the tube, this will be filled with weld. Clean all the surfaces before welding, so its not contaminated. I had my dad set up the welder for me cause hes a professional, but I welded it. It was at about a 7 on voltage and auto set wire speed feature. a 220v mig with argon gas.



And bam, I have fully functioning 4wd again. I took precautions to make sure the yoke piece lined up with the tube to where it was from the factory to maintain as much balance as possible. However the piece of shaft I cut off had a weight welded to it. Im not too worried about it because it only spins when its in 4wd, and that would only ever be aat rather low speeds.

Reason I did this in a how to form is because when I was looking at doing this swap, I couldnt find alot of information on it. Most people go with a 1354M which is alot more bolt in, but they are harder to find than a 1350m and everybody wants tons of money for them. So hopefully I will help someone. Cheers

 

[93bushtruck]

So I got a bit of money for graduation from friends and family. Not much, but it was enough to buy me some off road lights, a tranny fluid filter, and a quart of ATF. Hopefully I can get out to the shop tomorrow and throw these parts on. I also get paid so I can buy a few more quarts of ATF. The transmission has been very trouble free since Ive owned it, and since its got 400,000 kms on it I figured I should get this. Considering all the burnouts and brakestands the last owner did with it and never changed the fluid...


Cheers!

 

[93bushtruck]

Glad I did the tranny filter. The one I took out still had Ford stamped on it, and looking from inside the pickup I could see that the filter screen inside was torn



I also stuck my rusty bumper on, I could justify drilling holes in it for the lights




Cheers for now!

 

[93bushtruck]

Today was the first time I took it wheeling on rocky trails and through mud and whatnot. Just took it up Sumas Mountain for an hour cause I had a day permit and wanted to get the most out of it.

It was mostly just muddy water so it didnt get nearly as muddy as I wanted, but heres some pics in chronological order










I satrted to try and go through this puddle, went around the edge for my best chance. But nope, about 13 feet in it sunk to bumper height, so I backed out of there with speed lol



This was coming out from that puddle, the long box has a bit of overhang


The majority of the mud unfortunately


and packed the hitch with dirt



And on my way back home theres a little muddy area on the side of the road. Well I went just a hair too fast through that and when I exited the truck wouldnt rev and was throwing a CEL. I damn near cried, but I pulled over to have a look and the airbox tube had just fallen off the throttle body No harm no foul

 

[getrdone52]

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No that's when you floor it! That's how you get the truck dirty haha. Looks like fun though