driveshaft question

[fordman49450]

I was thinking of purchasing a 1 piece driveshaft for my 94 ranger but when looking at the picture at the top of the swap in the tech library it appears that the short piece of the one piece driveshaft with the slip yoke is about the same length as the one on the 2 piece to where it is connected to the midship bearing. Does anyone know if this is true? if it is, then exactly how much longer is the main driveshaft? I guess what i am asking is could i just take my 2 piece driveshaft and seperate it from the little shaft at the midship. put the end off that bolts to the transfer case and put it on the little part of the main shaft and just have the main section lengthened? if so, how much exactly does it need to be lengthened to work? I was just thinking of this as an alternative to taking down the skid plate on the gas tank because the diamater is smaller and also to have it lengthened and balanced locally here is 100.00 so compared to the 90 that a junk yard wants it's not much more and may save some work.

 

[AgPete139]

I read this twice and had trouble trying to understand you. Are you suggesting to remove the carrier bearing ("midship bearing"), cut the short & long sections of the driveshafts @ the bearing, add more length/elongate the longer piece, and weld the 2 pieces together?

You measure a 1-piece driveshaft from "weld to weld." For example, from the slip yoke end to the diffy end is 48", or whatever. Do what you want, but it sounds like finding a 1 piece would be easier.

I bought a fullsize Chevy 1-piece @ the junkyard for $40. I was gonna use it for my ranger, but ended up using it on my buddy's 2WD ranger instead. Changed out the u-joint and the ends/yoke with the stock, but it's held up. The rear shaft for an extended cab w/ the 4x4-xcase will be different though...be creative. Measure how much length you'll need, and go play in the yards.

Pete

 

[Yellowsplash]

The 1 piece driveshaft is the same length as your current one and will bolt in properly without any length modifications. Do yourself a favor and get rid of the carrier bearing...you'll thank me later, especially if you plan on lifting the truck.

Just make sure you get it from a 98-99 Extended cab 4WD, Transmission wont matter. This is a steel driveshaft that has the correct 2.5" (Spicer 1310) transfer case output flange. Its diameter is also bigger than your current 2 peice, but not big enough to cause a clearance issue with the fuel tank skid plate unless your a hardcore offroader or flex alot. I have this driveshaft on my truck and didnt trim the skid plate at all and havent scraped yet...

Newer 00+ trucks have a larger 3" (Spicer 1330) transfer case output flange as opposed to the 2.5" (Spicer 1310) that you have and wont fit without transfering to the newer output flange, or using a conversion U-Joint (Spicer 5-460X). Most of the aluminum driveshafts have the larger flange and the diameter is even larger then the steel making it more susceptible to scraping the skid plate during offroading.

Have fun grinding out the rivets for the carrier bearing mount. Other than that, its a direct bolt in with the 98-99 driveshaft.

 

[AllanD]

using a conversion U-joint is never necissary.

Just get the correct "adapter flange" (the square piece that couples
the U-joint to the flat round flange on the T-case)

I've spoken before on "coversion U-joints" and it makes it more difficult to get the correct u-joint later, and sure as kittens turn into cats you will need a U-joint.

It's much easier to get the proper flange and then BOTH u-joints on the shaft
will be the same.

AD

 

[kunar]

Yellowsplash and AllanD both give you absolutely perfect advice. get the proper steel driveshaft and the proper flanges and you wont have an issue. i just did this swap (got all my parts from AllanD, thanks bud) and havent had any issues. i used a long crescent wrench to bend the edge of the skid plate up further, no need to trim anything. i would have probably been fine without the 'adjustment' i did. the only thing i dont like (which i can get over) is how big of a PITA it is to get to the hardware on the flange at the axle end. the diameter of the tube makes it nearly imposable.